Husky 359 mystery

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Somebody has a damn steady hand if those numbers aren't factory haha. Perfectly spaced and level, definitely looks factory stamped to me. Husqvarna made the 359 cylinders in house. Every one of them I've been into had those "pock marks" in the cylinder plating. Depending on run time or more often sometimes "sit time," some are pretty bad. Pretty common. Regardless, they rarely seem to effect runnability. They came with either the Zama EL42 or Walbro HDA 199 carb. Others say differently sometimes, but I'm partial to the Walbro. Once they're gone through and debugged, they're a phenomenal carb.
What kind of "debugging" do you do to the Walbro?
 
Can never be certain unless it's in front of you but I see nothing in the pics to make be think that's anything but a stock, un-modified OEM 359 jug. All of the external markings and the casting/plating flaws look just like every one I've seen. The bevels look factory. What am I missing?
What kind of "debugging" do you do to the Walbro?
Probably this:
 
Can never be certain unless it's in front of you but I see nothing in the pics to make be think that's anything but a stock, un-modified 359 jug. All of the external markings and the casting/plating flaws look just like every one I've seen. The bevels look factory. What am I missing?

Probably this:

Thats kind of what I see. Doesn't appear to be ported .
 
What kind of "debugging" do you do to the Walbro?
Long winded video, my apologies, but it shows what I do & explains it a little.
Nothing to it really, quite simple.
•1) Just get a factory rebuild kit for it. Walbro K24-HDA. The factory carb came with a blue "plastic" pump diaphragm. They were very stiff and could cause idle and runnability issues. The new factory kit comes with a tan colored diaphragm that is much more supple, and eliminates the potential for runnability issues.
•2) Drill a small hole in the cover on the metering side so that it can have proper vent to atmosphere. Factory they get their vent to atmosphere THROUGH the carb body, this can sometimes cause problems.
 
Probably this:

Man, I've followed Scott for a long time. The man knows his stuff & is a wealth of knowledge! I just watched his video, it's 100% exactly how I do mine. I've always said "nothing is original at this point" haha. There has almost always been someone who has "been there, done that" before you. One just doesn't always know it. Pretty cool.
 
Can never be certain unless it's in front of you but I see nothing in the pics to make be think that's anything but a stock, un-modified OEM 359 jug. All of the external markings and the casting/plating flaws look just like every one I've seen. The bevels look factory. What am I missing?

Probably this:

There are grind marks inside both intake and exhaust ports, cyl had been honed at some point. I didn't notice them until I got it all cleaned out. You think those bevels are OE even with the grind marks?
I'm certainly no expert but it doesn't look like other cylinders I've cleaned up.
If it's stock that's still ok 🤪.
Just another saw to have built, lol
 
Long winded video, my apologies, but it shows what I do & explains it a little.
Nothing to it really, quite simple.
•1) Just get a factory rebuild kit for it. Walbro K24-HDA. The factory carb came with a blue "plastic" pump diaphragm. They were very stiff and could cause idle and runnability issues. The new factory kit comes with a tan colored diaphragm that is much more supple, and eliminates the potential for runnability issues.
•2) Drill a small hole in the cover on the metering side so that it can have proper vent to atmosphere. Factory they get their vent to atmosphere THROUGH the carb body, this can sometimes cause problems.

I have drilled the covers in the past but never heard of the problem using the blue diaphragm, if I tear mine down I'll try one of the brown ones and make sure the metering cover is drilled..thanks.
 
I know some guys will just clean up rough casting marks in the cylinder, as opposed to "porting" it, so it's possible the guy just did that.
Possible. Base gasket had been removed, sealer put on a tad sloppy but not bad. looks like a new kit has been put in the carb...has the tan diaphragms.

The saw runs great. I did a 1/2" size hole muffler mod and it opened up a bit. May expand that a bit.
It doesn't sound ported, if that makes sense. Throttle response is quick. Should have used the tig but was lazy, 🤪 a little paint and it'll be fine.IMG_20220125_122444_01.jpgIMG_20220125_131825_02.jpg
 
@singinwoodwackr I'd like to piggyback a bit on this thread, I was tuning up my brother's 445 when I saw this marking on the top of the cylinder. I know my brother didn't put it there and he bought the saw new off the dealer's shelf, and there's no "R" melted into the tank so I'm curious as for why Husky engraved this on the cylinder.
IMG_9875 2.JPG
 
Possible. Base gasket had been removed, sealer put on a tad sloppy but not bad. looks like a new kit has been put in the carb...has the tan diaphragms.

The saw runs great. I did a 1/2" size hole muffler mod and it opened up a bit. May expand that a bit.
It doesn't sound ported, if that makes sense. Throttle response is quick. Should have used the tig but was lazy, 🤪 a little paint and it'll be fine.View attachment 959454View attachment 959455
Should have used the tig but was lazy, 🤪 a little paint and it'll be fine..........paint hides a multitude of sins, the first being able to a job properly, and avoiding it.

Nice Saw.
 

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