Husky 359
- Thread starter aljecaro
- Start date
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Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
80 psi is your problem. Take off the muffler at look at the piston. You should see lots of marks on it.....It should be smooth....
Gonna need a piston and cylinder. They aren;t cheap either.
Gonna need a piston and cylinder. They aren;t cheap either.
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Or the right compression gauge.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
WOW...10 months, and 80psi!!!
did it run nonstop for thew whole 10 months?
did it run nonstop for thew whole 10 months?
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
Lakeside53 said:
One would think that, but ether will fire a saw off at 100lbs. Won't run long, but will fire. He's got fuel and spark...he is telling us that it has no compression.....
so.....What do you think about the situation Andy?
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Maybe flooded.. and the spark is being quenched, or, spun flywheel... but first I'd figure out if he has real compression or not. Like you said, checking the piston would be a great step. I get about 3 guys a week that bring me saws with "bad" compression.. I'm going to start stocking compression testers to sell them.
Was the saw running fine until now? Is it something that happened suddenly or gradually? The 359 has a decompression valve. You can remove it and install a metric pipe plug to eliminate any leakage that might be occurring. I would re-check your compression without the decomp valve in place. I would also try a brand new spark plug. It is real easy to flood a 359. (For those unfamiliar, you pull out on the choke lever which also turns the "off" switch to "on". Push in the decomp button. Start pulling but stop as soon as you get a "gurgle" out of the saw. Push in the choke and pull starter again. It should fire on the first or second pull. If you keep pulling on the starter after it attempts to fire with the choke on you will definitely wet the spark plug. Might as well get the scrench out and remove and dry the plug). Have you pulled the muffler off yet? (5mm allen heads down in the tubes in the muffler face).
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
Urbicide said:Was the saw running fine until now? Is it something that happened suddenly or gradually? The 359 has a decompression valve. You can remove it and install a metric pipe plug to eliminate any leakage that might be occurring. I would re-check your compression without the decomp valve in place. I would also try a brand new spark plug. It is real easy to flood a 359. (For those unfamiliar, you pull out on the choke lever which also turns the "off" switch to "on". Push in the decomp button. Start pulling but stop as soon as you get a "gurgle" out of the saw. Push in the choke and pull starter again. It should fire on the first or second pull. If you keep pulling on the starter after it attempts to fire with the choke on you will definitely wet the spark plug. Might as well get the scrench out and remove and dry the plug). Have you pulled the muffler off yet? (5mm allen heads down in the tubes in the muffler face).
tsk tsk, that went wrong, after it tries for first time you put in on half-choke (push the choke halfway in) then few pulls and it fires...
tsk,tsk, tsk. Excuse me? 1/2 choke? From the "off choke" to "on choke" takes less than 1/2" (roughly 12mm) movement. When set to the "on" position in that short range it automatically sets the fast idle as well as turn ignition on. There is no detent position between "off" and "on". That would require a movement of 1/4" (6mm) to be in half position. If that works for you that is a wonderful thing. I do not even look at controls anymore since I do set the controls by touch. There is no mention of half-choke in owner's manual. Maybe on a different model but not on the 359. Here is a link to the 359 owner's manual. Page 19 deals with starting the saw. Take care.blis said:
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOEN/HOEN2005/HOEN2005_1150154-26.pdf
blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
Urbicide said:
well, its no real position, but thats how all huskies start best... just requires a bit of finger work to set in on halfway position... Atleast on old huskies its must if you dont want to pull it for whole day...
Freakingstang
Doctor Freakinstein
blis said:
Not following your logic here...it works the same on older huskies too..
To switch to on, pull choke lever to set choke. Pull it a couple times until it pops, push choke back in. Pull 1-2 more times until it starts. Blip throttle after it is running to decrease the speed to idle. This works on all of the 365-372 saw, as well as all the older 268,272, 257, 261, etc. There is no detent for half choke...It isn't needed on a properly tuned saw.
If the saw doesn't start in that matter, it sounds like a band aid for a saw needing properly tuned. Possibly a fuel filter and carb kit, but could be other things such as a cracked impluse line or fuel feed line.
On my cold natured modded 357 you have to catch the pop on choke and then set or push choke half in then start,. Let run on high idle for awhile then blip or crack the throttle after it is warmed up. If you blip the throttle on start up without the warm up you will have a flooded saw on your hands with my 357. Ask Begley, he seen it happen when you get in a hurry.
Hard Knocks
ArboristSite Operative
I can't remember ever having to find a mid choke position on any properly adjusted Husky. Always on or off. Even the X-Torq engines start fine with full and no choke only they need some warm up time on high idle before they will accelerate.
Bad Husky!
I have two good compression guages, both gave me the same reading, the funny part is the saw only has maybe 30 hours of use, the last five minutes I used the saw she started stuttering and sneezing. I pulled the saw out of the log she revved back up, I finished my cut she stalled at idle, and never fired since, my guess is a ring was possible fractured at assembly time. Very strange.
Lakeside53 said:
I have two good compression guages, both gave me the same reading, the funny part is the saw only has maybe 30 hours of use, the last five minutes I used the saw she started stuttering and sneezing. I pulled the saw out of the log she revved back up, I finished my cut she stalled at idle, and never fired since, my guess is a ring was possible fractured at assembly time. Very strange.
Hard Knocks
ArboristSite Operative
Take it to your dealer and give them all of the info that you gave us. If you have done everything properly while operating the saw eg. fuel mix, routine maintenance there will be no problems getting it repaired free of charge. The 359 is a very reliable saw, in fact we have not had one of ours come back for anything other than chain sharpening. If your dealer is a good business operator than you will have no problem.
Bad Husky
Hey, I just pulled the muffler off and the cylinder is toast, i cannot figure that one out. The fuel i always mixed myself "a little on the heavy with oil" not my laborers, I have had that happen to an outboard motor I bought, the guy who built the engine fractured a ring and it let go about 45 hours into the break in time. I dont know if it is worth sending out to have someone else rebuild it, I might just do it myself to ensure it to be done right. I just never have luck when I farm out work, to many unreliable'sout there. The other thing, which is why I posted on this site my race boat has a 235 outboard which stock only puts out 90 psi in the cylinders, which i bumped up to 165 psi. But they run off 90psi but this saw will not, even off either. I guess they are just fussey. Thanks all you guys for help and support on this problem, if i dont chat before the 25th have a Merry Christmas!!
Hard Knocks said:
Hey, I just pulled the muffler off and the cylinder is toast, i cannot figure that one out. The fuel i always mixed myself "a little on the heavy with oil" not my laborers, I have had that happen to an outboard motor I bought, the guy who built the engine fractured a ring and it let go about 45 hours into the break in time. I dont know if it is worth sending out to have someone else rebuild it, I might just do it myself to ensure it to be done right. I just never have luck when I farm out work, to many unreliable'sout there. The other thing, which is why I posted on this site my race boat has a 235 outboard which stock only puts out 90 psi in the cylinders, which i bumped up to 165 psi. But they run off 90psi but this saw will not, even off either. I guess they are just fussey. Thanks all you guys for help and support on this problem, if i dont chat before the 25th have a Merry Christmas!!
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
You should stop using ether and just use fuel mix in a squirt can. Good luck on your rebuild.
buck futter
ArboristSite Guru
my 359 was a pain to start new, in the winter time it need a nonexistant 1/2 choke to stay running. Once it broke in, the saw does as is intended. pull choke on, burp, set fast idle, boom.
I don't know why but she was a pig new.
Buck
I don't know why but she was a pig new.
Buck
Woodie
"Cap'n Bullcrap'n"
Justsaws said:
I was told once never to use ether because, at least momentarily, it destroyed the lubrication which would normally be present. Is this true?
Oh, that and you could blow your saw to kingdome come...
