Husky 450 Rancher & Granberg G777

[kirkdb]

Looking to do some basic milling of DF. My Husky 450 rancher has a 20” “pixel” bar and chain with a laminated bar. Granberg requires a solid bar on their G777. Unfortunately, I’ve struggled to find a solid bar that will match the 450 rancher small mount in .325 .050 80DL. Does anyone have experience with this saw that can provide recommendations?

Also, anyone using the G777 (Single sided bar support) with a laminated bar? How well does it work?

Much appreciated!

Kirk

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I wouldn't run it with a laminated bar. Best bet is to get this lo pro setup, amazing demo deal, I got a new one at full cost for my Makita 64cc saw and the G777 but am switching it to my 455 Rancher because I have two Ranchers and I'm running 36" lo pro on the Makita on a normal Alaskan now. https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/prod...-pro-050-72-drive-links-ex-demo-kit-to-clear/
If you find something else to order to get it to $120, shipping is free from the UK. You need the Stihl 12mm to K095 8mm adapter which they're out of stock on, so I ordered mine on Ebay. One more hiccup, though, I had to get a 3/8 rim sprocket setup from Ebay too for $19 to put the lo pro sprocket on because my Ranchers have 3/8 spur sprockets. Again, couldn't find one on the chainsawbars site. May be too much to bother with for you to switch everything out, but lo pro works unbelievably well on that mill with modest cc saws compared to normal .325 or 3/8.
Nearly nothing lo pro but chains is available in the US (no sprockets or bars) but this place's shipping is so fast and their prices and expertise so good, I order all my lo pro gear from them. Europe and UK use a ton of lo pro for milling to get more out of lesser saws. US market just believes in only using 90-120cc saws for milling. I'm almost tempted to keep buying every lo pro demo package they have and start reselling them in the US to people who want to mill with 50-70cc saws. Bought a pair of demo (basically new) 36" bars and chains and a sprocket for $135 (nearly $450 in new gear) a couple of weeks ago again after paying $153 full price on the first bar I bought.

 

[kirkdb]

This is awesome. Will take a few reads to fully regurgitate but high level makes sense. I've no real world experience changing bar / chain sizes on a chainsaw so its a new set of terminology for me to understand. I suspect I can reach out to these folks and have them verify what I need to order. Once I have the parts, the mechanics of it should be easy enough. Thanks for this!

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

This is awesome. Will take a few reads to fully regurgitate but high level makes sense. I've no real world experience changing bar / chain sizes on a chainsaw so its a new set of terminology for me to understand. I suspect I can reach out to these folks and have them verify what I need to order. Once I have the parts, the mechanics of it should be easy enough. Thanks for this!

One hiccup to this plan. Husqvarna made a strange little incompatible beast in the 450 Rancher. I can't find any compatible 3/8" drum sprocket, they seemingly designed it only to work with the .325, where the 455 and 460 Ranchers come in 3/8. If you have a Pixel bar already, I think that's .325 Narrow Kerf chain which is comparable to 3/8 lo pro. So in effect you have a lo pro setup already. Only problem is it's a laminate bar. You could give it a go for a bit but sooner or later you're likely to bend the bar. Don't know any other options. Husky made an oddly proprietary saw with that model.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Don't know where you are in Colorado, took a quick look on Craigslist and there's a very nice 64cc Stihl MS391 for $300 somewhere south of Denver - they're $680 new - which would be a far better milling saw for the G777. You probably aren't looking to add another saw and just work with what you have, but it's unfortunately not an especially compatible saw with very much.

 

[kirkdb]

Yah that’s been my problem on the 450. Originally got it just to cut up fallen trees. Works great for that. Picked up the G777 and didn’t see the solid bar requirement until after the fact. Such is life. Will try the laminated bar but long term will look for a used chainsaw or a new knockoff.

I’m in western Colorado btw. Try to avoid the big cities on the east side

 

[J D]

One hiccup to this plan. Husqvarna made a strange little incompatible beast in the 450 Rancher. I can't find any compatible 3/8" drum sprocket, they seemingly designed it only to work with the .325, where the 455 and 460 Ranchers come in 3/8. If you have a Pixel bar already, I think that's .325 Narrow Kerf chain which is comparable to 3/8 lo pro. So in effect you have a lo pro setup already. Only problem is it's a laminate bar. You could give it a go for a bit but sooner or later you're likely to bend the bar. Don't know any other options. Husky made an oddly proprietary saw with that model.

I'm reasonably sure the 34x, 35x, 44x, 45x, 46x saws all have interchangable clutch drums if you swap the worm drive to fit the drum. Bare in mind the worm drive has to match the pitch of the oil pump too as the fixed oilers are different to the adjustable ones

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I'm reasonably sure the 34x, 35x, 44x, 45x, 46x saws all have interchangable clutch drums if you swap the worm drive to fit the drum. Bare in mind the worm drive has to match the pitch of the oil pump too as the fixed oilers are different to the adjustable ones

I thought it pretty likely there was a way but more than someone with limited experience of messing with saws would want to do. A lot of folks lately are hoping to do a bit of milling with their existing firewood saw, but end of the day it's not really that practical in most cases. You always want a saw on hand to do crosscutting at the same time you're milling, so owning two saws is really kind of a basic minimum for milling. I think the second saw makes more sense as a 64-80cc felling saw that you can use for milling too though than the trend in the US of just going to a dedicated milling saw, 90+cc incredibly heavy clone saw of Stihl or Husky (because everyone is too cheap now to spend money on the real thing).

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Yah that’s been my problem on the 450. Originally got it just to cut up fallen trees. Works great for that. Picked up the G777 and didn’t see the solid bar requirement until after the fact. Such is life. Will try the laminated bar but long term will look for a used chainsaw or a new knockoff.

I’m in western Colorado btw. Try to avoid the big cities on the east side

Like I said in my other comment, would look for a good used Stihl or Husky (or Makita) rather than a new knockoff. A properly built out knockoff with the guaranteed-to-break parts replaced with OEM runs at least $500 despite the lure of $150 or $300 kits they advertise. Check pawn shops now and then. I got one 455 Rancher for $200 at a pawn shop and my Makita 64cc for $180 off of CL. The Makita 6421's were a Home Depot rental fleet saw for awhile when HD was renting saws, then they sold them all off cheap. Don't come up very often for sale but sometimes great deals when they do.

 

[kirkdb]

I thought it pretty likely there was a way but more than someone with limited experience of messing with saws would want to do. A lot of folks lately are hoping to do a bit of milling with their existing firewood saw, but end of the day it's not really that practical in most cases. You always want a saw on hand to do crosscutting at the same time you're milling, so owning two saws is really kind of a basic minimum for milling. I think the second saw makes more sense as a 64-80cc felling saw that you can use for milling too though than the trend in the US of just going to a dedicated milling saw, 90+cc incredibly heavy clone saw of Stihl or Husky (because everyone is too cheap now to spend money on the real thing).

Sorta … in my case at least. Like all folks new to a craft / hobby, I’m nowhere near an expert. I’ve run <24” chainsaws on and off throughout my life. But, that’s where my expertise ended. When we bought our property, I picked up a Makita 40v battery chainsaw. For what it is, it’s quite impressive. I wanted something the wife would be comfortable using. Later, after taking down 10 or so trees, I picked up the husky to get a little extra power and to not have to retire for the day after all the batteries were spent. In the back of my mind, I figured I could eventually use the saw for light milling. Due to the g777 solid bar requirement, I was wrong. Should have picked up a more compatible husky. That’s fine. Live and learn. At this point though, considering the low volume of logs I’d mill each year, I have to consider whether the investment into an $800 saw is worth it to me. A knock off or a used saw keeps me in the game. I suspect that’s a similar train of thought for many just getting started with milling. I could invest thousands and decide it’s not for me. Not a wise approach imho. Not to mention, at some point you approach the cost of a $3000 band saw mill.

Anyhow, I appreciate all the feedback. Food for thought is much cheaper than actual food these days. If anyone knows of a means to an end with the 450 rancher, please post it. Otherwise, I’ll do some light milling with the laminated bar until I come across a to good to pass up deal on a used saw or a Black Friday on a new one.

Thanks Ya’ll …

Kirk

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

At this point though, considering the low volume of logs I’d mill each year, I have to consider whether the investment into an $800 saw is worth it to me. A knock off or a used saw keeps me in the game. I suspect that’s a similar train of thought for many just getting started with milling. I could invest thousands and decide it’s not for me.

Fully agree. That's why I've been pushing people toward lo pro to make use of existing 50-70cc saws. Just doesn't seem it will work out with yours without a lot of tweaking. Even the 455 Rancher I'm trying to adapt I'm wondering if it's worth the bother now. The Stihl (12mm) to Rancher (8mm) bar adapter is not that common and had to spend $20 ordering it from New England Pine (there's a cheaper one on Ebay but distrustful of quality). The lo pro rim sprockets I have don't fit the Rancher it turns out - they're for 60+cc saws as I thought. So have to order the small spline lo pro rim sprocket from Chainsawbars. As far as the G777 mill and the tricky 20" solid bar requirement, I think ultimately it's worth the hassle of getting a setup that works with it. It's just so light with a 50-60cc saw it's a joy to work with compared to a standard Alaskan mill and big saw, especially when resawing for lumber.

A lot of the clone owners crow that their saw paid for itself in a short time so no matter if it's disposable or doesn't last, they only have a few hundred dollars in it. I spent $400 on my first Stihl 87cc milling saw second hand, I'd never dream of spending $1000-2000 on a saw as a newbie, so I get that new big brand saws are only a viable choice for serious pros. But I'm a serious re-use, re-cycle, make existing things last forever kinda guy, so I like second hand name saws I can trust that will always retain value. You've got the right approach - mill some with what you have, see if you're hooked on the milling thing before you upgrade a bit more.

 

[kirkdb]

Fully agree. That's why I've been pushing people toward lo pro to make use of existing 50-70cc saws. Just doesn't seem it will work out with yours without a lot of tweaking. Even the 455 Rancher I'm trying to adapt I'm wondering if it's worth the bother now. The Stihl (12mm) to Rancher (8mm) bar adapter is not that common and had to spend $20 ordering it from New England Pine (there's a cheaper one on Ebay but distrustful of quality). The lo pro rim sprockets I have don't fit the Rancher it turns out - they're for 60+cc saws as I thought. So have to order the small spline lo pro rim sprocket from Chainsawbars. As far as the G777 mill and the tricky 20" solid bar requirement, I think ultimately it's worth the hassle of getting a setup that works with it. It's just so light with a 50-60cc saw it's a joy to work with compared to a standard Alaskan mill and big saw, especially when resawing for lumber.

A lot of the clone owners crow that their saw paid for itself in a short time so no matter if it's disposable or doesn't last, they only have a few hundred dollars in it. I spent $400 on my first Stihl 87cc milling saw second hand, I'd never dream of spending $1000-2000 on a saw as a newbie, so I get that new big brand saws are only a viable choice for serious pros. But I'm a serious re-use, re-cycle, make existing things last forever kinda guy, so I like second hand name saws I can trust that will always retain value. You've got the right approach - mill some with what you have, see if you're hooked on the milling thing before you upgrade a bit more.

Wait ... last for ever .... not a concept I've been trained to understand ... lol

I agree and my big hesitation with clones .. although they claim to be interchangeable I've read many folks having a hard time replacing parts with the OEM equivalent as tolerances aren't there on the clones. I don't believe I've owned an engine that didn't need some part replaced at some point.

Good news, our community is having a silent auction next week to raise money for the volunteer fire department. I will be on the prowl for a commercial grade husky or stihl. If not now when?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The ms660 knock offs work very well in a mill and are less then 300 right now.
Honestly when I look at the ad for most chainsaw mills it should be a indication that "50-70cc ( or more) " that the 450 is gonna be seriously under classed in a mill.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I agree and my big hesitation with clones .. although they claim to be interchangeable I've read many folks having a hard time replacing parts with the OEM equivalent as tolerances aren't there on the clones. I don't believe I've owned an engine that didn't need some part replaced at some point.

The one saw that has been a near flawless chainsaw has been my Stihl 880. I've run it so hard in awful Texas heat for four years and the only thing that finally wore out was I wore such deep grooves in the spur sprocket that the sprocket split in half finally. Otherwise never hesitates to start second pull, never had to clean the carb or do a thing yet after many many hours milling. Only new saw I ever bought and through buying it in a foreign country when the exchange rate was heavily in my favor, I somehow managed to score the thing for about $950 with a 36" bar new. Was one of those "I'll never have to upgrade" purchases. Nice to have, but an unbelievable brute to run, and painfully heavy. So for all but big slab milling, it's less than ideal. Get into 30"+ hardwood slabs and it shines. My first 87cc Stihl milling saw and the parts saw I bought to go with it were probably my worst purchases, because I've wasted more time on them than they'll ever possibly be worth. I bought old mid-80's vintage Stihls without understanding the headaches that came with those particular models, flawed ignitions guaranteed to burn out, unavailable replacement ignitions, or bearings, or seals. Eventually picked up the OEM seals and bearings, got new jugs and pistons, repaired one ignition and got another aftermarket from Germany, rebuilt both from ground up, and I'm STILL trying to figure out how to get the rebuilt carbs not to flood and spit gas. Things are the bane of my existence, but I know I'm so close to making them a great pair of milling saws I won't give up. And they have good collector value.
Conventional wisdom about a 50cc saw being too little for milling is true assuming you run 3/8" or even normal .325, but running 3/8" lo pro or .325 narrow kerf is a way different story that only a few in the US are familiar with. Far less taxing on the saw and no problem at all in 12-17" softwoods, just don't run it too hard, keep the chain sharp, and let it rest between cuts. If I can blaze through 15-20" slabs of extreme hardwoods with a 36" lo pro bar on a 64cc saw, then a 50cc saw can handle softwoods with a 20" lo pro/narrow kerf bar. Become a chain sharpening expert and you'll outperform people with bigger saws routinely. Way too many people just use big saws to get away with running dull chains. Ninety percent of milling is proper sharpening. Most people never figure it out.

 

[kirkdb]

The ms660 knock offs work very well in a mill and are less then 300 right now.View attachment 998856
Honestly when I look at the ad for most chainsaw mills it should be an indication that "50-70cc ( or more) " that the 450 is gonna be seriously under classed in a mill.

I purchased the mill on Amazon. They do not have the same warning about laminated bars on the Amazon product listing.

 

[kirkdb]

OK ... just found this ...

Oregon 200RNBK095 .050" Gauge .325" Pitch 20" Power Match Bar​

The 450 rancher is not listed. However, the 450e is listed which uses the same bar and chain as the 450 rancher. This appears to be a solid bar design. Am I missing something? A few of the comments on the big A states it works on the 450 rancher.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

This should work fine - 20" solid body bar, .325, K095 mount that fits your Rancher. https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-200RNBK095-Gauge-Pitch-Power/dp/B001SCL7DI. The narrow kerf chain runs fine on the normal .325 bars I gather but your 80 link chain on your Pixel won't work on this bar because this takes a 78 drive link chain. You'd want this, if you can find it in less than five packs. https://www.amazon.com/Husqvarna-581643678-SP33G-Chainsaw-Chain/dp/B083G8SWSG

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

OK ... just found this ...

Oregon 200RNBK095 .050" Gauge .325" Pitch 20" Power Match Bar​

The 450 rancher is not listed. However, the 450e is listed which uses the same bar and chain as the 450 rancher. This appears to be a solid bar design. Am I missing something? A few of the comments on the big A states it works on the 450 rancher.

Had just found and was typing when you posted that. Definitely will work with the 450 Rancher. You just have to buy a 78dl Husqvarna SP33G chain as I said, can't use your 80dl chain that's on your Pixel on it. And it is going to be an aggressive crosscut tooth angle, would be more ideal for it to be a 10 degree ripping chain for milling but don't think anyone makes ripping chain in .325 narrow kerf. I helped my uncle mill pine in Florida with a Haddon lumbermaker about 20 years ago with I think the same 455 Rancher I inherited after he died. And that was with 3/8 chain. Was slow work but we did a lot of 12-15' long 2 x 12's or bigger.

 

[kirkdb]

So is 80DL just too long? Also, the 450R has a 7 tooth sprocket. How does that factor in here. I know pitch is important for obvious reasons. How does tooth count factor in. The Oregon bar states 12 tooth. This is my rookiness at its best

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

So is 80DL just too long? Also, the 450R has a 7 tooth sprocket. How does that factor in here. I know pitch is important for obvious reasons. How does tooth count factor in. The Oregon bar states 12 tooth. This is my rookiness at its best

Yes, the 80DL will be too long. Most tensioners don't have the range to even make up one drive link off. There are 12 teeth in the nose sprocket. Why they state that I have no idea cause it's not relevant to anything. A 7 tooth .325 drive sprocket is standard and will work fine with that bar and chain. Don't worry about rookie-ness. This kind of stuff drove me crazy for my first couple of years figuring out chainsaw gear. There are so many things between bar, chain, and sprocket to match up and manufacturers do a terrible job of explaining them. They might say what their stuff works with but when you get into DIY, different brands, custom mix and match setups, the manufacturer information is often next to useless to figuring out what you need. It took me forever to figure out lo pro because no one offered matching sprocket/bar/chain setups and explained it all til Chainsawbars in the UK went big on lo pro.
Something I really had to deep dive on not being familiar with Pixel chain. You can't buy that bar and put Pixel (SP33G) narrow kerf chain on it. So if you buy that bar, you need any regular .325 78 link chain for it. But not narrow kerf. Which is just as well, because it allows you to buy a ripping chain. https://www.amazon.com/Archer-325-050-78DL-Chainsaw-Husqvarna-K1CRP-78E/dp/B07X522VXJ