Husky 450 Rancher & Granberg G777

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I find my Makita 64cc does not oil the bar much on max, and I would guess the 450R even less. One of the drawbacks to trying to mill with small saws is you do need to get more oil to the bar than they tend to be designed for. I wasn't sure what was going on with the throttle feathering but think JD has a handle on that. One of my saws I was testing the other day was doing that due to being way out of tune.
Insult to injury the Rancher 450 does not have an oil adjustment that I can find and it doesn't dynamically adjust based on RPM. Simply put its a constant rate oiler. Nice saw but I'm definitely seeing the shortcomings when it comes to milling.
 
Insult to injury the Rancher 450 does not have an oil adjustment that I can find and it doesn't dynamically adjust based on RPM. Simply put its a constant rate oiler. Nice saw but I'm definitely seeing the shortcomings when it comes to milling.
You can fit the adjustable oiler for a 35x/46x, you will need the worm drive clutch to go with it though.
Alternatively you can dismantle the oiler you have & sand the angle on the end of the drive spline to make it slightly greater (don't make it any shorter overall) & it will pump a little more.
The stock oiler should still empty about 2/3 or more of the oil tank to a tank of fuel
 
You can fit the adjustable oiler for a 35x/46x, you will need the worm drive clutch to go with it though.
Alternatively you can dismantle the oiler you have & sand the angle on the end of the drive spline to make it slightly greater (don't make it any shorter overall) & it will pump a little more.
The stock oiler should still empty about 2/3 or more of the oil tank to a tank of fuel
Which would be better .... replacing the oiler / clutch or going with an external oiler rig? I'm guessing that even by upgrading the chainsaw oiler, the results will be a slight increase whereas using an external oiler would allow for significant increase in oil if desired. Currently the bar is staying nice and cool. But I'm also not cranking on it when milling.
 
Which would be better .... replacing the oiler / clutch or going with an external oiler rig? I'm guessing that even by upgrading the chainsaw oiler, the results will be a slight increase whereas using an external oiler would allow for significant increase in oil if desired. Currently the bar is staying nice and cool. But I'm also not cranking on it when milling.
Only problem with the small log mill is there's no outside post to hang an external oiler on. I'd save an external oiler for a regular Alaskan mill. The adjustable oiler will likely give you some more, but it's a matter of how much you view the 450R as a temporary milling solution and how much you want to spend on it or labor on it to get a bit more oil on a 20" bar. This whole thread on converting it to a 455 oiler sounds kinda like a pain in the *** that I can't see undertaking unless you were dedicated to being a one saw for all occasions person, which you don't plan to be. https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husky-450-adjustable-oiler-conversion.305277/
 
Didn’t consider all thread for cross members. Might be a good way to go. I like the adjustability aspect of it.
Too hot to mill here, 105+ every day lately, so just moving giant oak slabs around from front yard to back yard so no one calls code enforcement on me lol. (I have incredibly tolerant neighbors for living in the city though, they like what I do.) I have been finishing up some edge pieces that had a few boards left in them with the lo pro setup, and was frustrated at the results I was getting with my Unistrut ladder. One rail seemed straight, the other just a bit off of straight, but was getting awful warped results. On closer look, the Unistrut was twisted more than I thought. All thread crossmembers didn't fix at all as I thought they had. Waste of $75 in Unistrut. Typical of buying anything at big box stores, wood or steel, it's usually warped. Definitely going the 2x2 square tubing route now. Can use the all thread members on it and repurpose the Unistrut for something that doesn't require it to be dead straight.
 
Too hot to mill here, 105+ every day lately, so just moving giant oak slabs around from front yard to back yard so no one calls code enforcement on me lol. (I have incredibly tolerant neighbors for living in the city though, they like what I do.) I have been finishing up some edge pieces that had a few boards left in them with the lo pro setup, and was frustrated at the results I was getting with my Unistrut ladder. One rail seemed straight, the other just a bit off of straight, but was getting awful warped results. On closer look, the Unistrut was twisted more than I thought. All thread crossmembers didn't fix at all as I thought they had. Waste of $75 in Unistrut. Typical of buying anything at big box stores, wood or steel, it's usually warped. Definitely going the 2x2 square tubing route now. Can use the all thread members on it and repurpose the Unistrut for something that doesn't require it to be dead straight.
Talking to a few guys up here, when we get hot days (82f @ 10k ft elevation) they have seen their gas start to boil. Yikes … something else to worry about … lol
 
For those following or interested, the husky 450 is doing alright and if you were to only mill 3-4 logs per year it might be perfect with the standard kerf bar and chain. I did tune the saw with a tach and still had issues with the saw wanting to bog down some. All said, I will be getting my neotec / husky 372xp clone today. I went with a 20” 3/8 050 bar and chain. 20” because that’s what my mill supports and 050 to keep the cuts as narrow as possible. Will report back on that. i Received a $200 credit with A***** and got the entire setup saw, bar and two ripping chains for $220 After the credit. Couldn’t pass that up.
 
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