Sold Husky 50 With The Orange Brake Flag, builder? Sold Pending Funds

[chipper1]

Price lowered to $50.
Don't know anything about this one.
Got it from the farmer I hooked up with a saw a while back.
He picked it up when his saws wouldn't run.
After he handed it to me and told me it was running well per the previous owner he handed me the throttle linkage and said he wasn't sure what it was but it went with the saw lol. I looked under the cover and the carb/manifold was not mounted to the cylinder and the carb was just hooked to the fuel line, and it was missing and intake screw. I wiped it down today and drained the fluids out of it and then installed the linkage and an intake screw I had here, so it is all complete and assembled.
Assume this one needs to be rebuilt as it only read 40psi on my compression tester, I'll let you pull the muffler when you get it.
Things that I see wrong right away are; the intake screw did not have the allen head style that came with it, the dawg is missing, the muffler bracket is cracked, piece of the recoil that says 50 has a chip and is cracked, and it's missing one bar nut.
Looking for 70 plus shipping PHO.
Pictures coming shortly.
Thanks for looking guys,
Brett

 

[chipper1]

Here's some pictures.
They look more red than orange for some reason, but here they are.

 

[CsClimbr]

Think this model would fit a 55 Rancher top? Looks a lot nicer than the 51 I’ve got parts comin for to convert. If it’s still available in a couple weeks i may just take it off your hands, already bought 4 saws this week

 

[chipper1]

What up man.
Yes, a lot of information on swapping them.
I'm sure @motor head could answer any questions as they aren't my thing per se.
I know what I've read, but have not worked on them myself except putting the carb back on this one.

 

[motor head]

What up man.
Yes, a lot of information on swapping them.
I'm sure @motor head could answer any questions as they aren't my thing per se.
I know what I've read, but have not worked on them myself except putting the carb back on this one.

That’s a good deal,Good luck with the sale Brett.

 

[chipper1]

That’s a good deal,Good luck with the sale Brett.

Thanks George.
To bad you don't need another .

 

[Chris moss]

Is this still available? I have a few of theses exact saws and could always use another

 

[chipper1]

Is this still available? I have a few of theses exact saws and could always use another

It is Chris.
I sent you a PM.

 

[muddstopper]

Think this model would fit a 55 Rancher top? Looks a lot nicer than the 51 I’ve got parts comin for to convert. If it’s still available in a couple weeks i may just take it off your hands, already bought 4 saws this week

I cant say for sure if the later models 50's cases will accept a 55 top end. It is possible that as Husky made the transition from the model 50 to the model 55 that they could have made a few model 50 crankcases that would accept the model 55 cyl. When compareing the older model 50's with the newer 55's, the cyl base circle of the 55 is a larger dia than those on the model 50 and will not be a direct bolt on with out either turning down the base circle of the 55 cyl or boreing out the base circle of the 50 case. Also for Chipper's future reference, the older model 50's didnt use hex screws in the intake, they used slotted screws. Another difference is the crank bolt on the flywheel side is a different thread pitch than the nut for a model 55. I found that out the hard way. Also, the 50 flywheel has a woodruff key instead of the casted key in the 55, or is it the other way around, I forget. You also have the different carb and choke setup. I base this information on the old white top model 50 I have. It is a original condition saw I wanted to put a 55 top end on and found these differences.

 

[CsClimbr]

I cant say for sure if the later models 50's cases will accept a 55 top end. It is possible that as Husky made the transition from the model 50 to the model 55 that they could have made a few model 50 crankcases that would accept the model 55 cyl. When compareing the older model 50's with the newer 55's, the cyl base circle of the 55 is a larger dia than those on the model 50 and will not be a direct bolt on with out either turning down the base circle of the 55 cyl or boreing out the base circle of the 50 case. Also for Chipper's future reference, the older model 50's didnt use hex screws in the intake, they used slotted screws. Another difference is the crank bolt on the flywheel side is a different thread pitch than the nut for a model 55. I found that out the hard way. Also, the 50 flywheel has a woodruff key instead of the casted key in the 55, or is it the other way around, I forget. You also have the different carb and choke setup. I base this information on the old white top model 50 I have. It is a original condition saw I wanted to put a 55 top end on and found these differences.

Thanks for the info, not to jack the thread but is this why I may be having trouble with this 51 flywheel? Purchased a new crank, bearings, seals, muffler, gaskets.. now I’m stuck looking at this and wondering what happened to the key.. was there no key and the cast got screwed up long ago somehow?

 

[chipper1]

I cant say for sure if the later models 50's cases will accept a 55 top end. It is possible that as Husky made the transition from the model 50 to the model 55 that they could have made a few model 50 crankcases that would accept the model 55 cyl. When compareing the older model 50's with the newer 55's, the cyl base circle of the 55 is a larger dia than those on the model 50 and will not be a direct bolt on with out either turning down the base circle of the 55 cyl or boreing out the base circle of the 50 case. Also for Chipper's future reference, the older model 50's didnt use hex screws in the intake, they used slotted screws. Another difference is the crank bolt on the flywheel side is a different thread pitch than the nut for a model 55. I found that out the hard way. Also, the 50 flywheel has a woodruff key instead of the casted key in the 55, or is it the other way around, I forget. You also have the different carb and choke setup. I base this information on the old white top model 50 I have. It is a original condition saw I wanted to put a 55 top end on and found these differences.

Thanks for the info, not to jack the thread but is this why I may be having trouble with this 51 flywheel? Purchased a new crank, bearings, seals, muffler, gaskets.. now I’m stuck looking at this and wondering what happened to the key.. was there no key and the cast got screwed up long ago somehow?

View attachment 652322

Thanks guys, and thus the reason I don't mess around much with doing lots with the older saws. There are plenty of guys who know what works with what on these and what doesn't and most have found these things out by learning the hard way. Usually when I've done engine swaps on vehicles (cars and bikes)I try to have both vehicles there so I have all the parts I'd need, many times thats what's needed when doing P&C swaps on saws as well, or it at least makes it a bit less painful.
I also figure the guys who have dealt with these probably have the parts laying around to make the swap an easy job for them. Those are the type of guys I'm usually hoping will grab stuff like this up. Of course there are those who are looking to learn and getting your hands dirty is a great way to do that too.

 

[muddstopper]

Thanks for the info, not to jack the thread but is this why I may be having trouble with this 51 flywheel? Purchased a new crank, bearings, seals, muffler, gaskets.. now I’m stuck looking at this and wondering what happened to the key.. was there no key and the cast got screwed up long ago somehow?

View attachment 652322

I would say that the 51 flywheel had the casted key in the flywheel and it probably stripped out. Look at your crank end and see if it has a keyway cut down the shaft or just a small cut for a wooddruff key. You can still use the flywheel without the key if you have a degree wheel and set the ignition properly. Once the nut is tightened down on the flywheel it will pretty much will stay put. Here is a degree wheel you can print out if you need it.

 

[chipper1]

I would say that the 51 flywheel had the casted key in the flywheel and it probably stripped out. Look at your crank end and see if it has a keyway cut down the shaft or just a small cut for a wooddruff key. You can still use the flywheel without the key if you have a degree wheel and set the ignition properly. Once the nut is tightened down on the flywheel it will pretty much will stay put. Here is a degree wheel you can print out if you need it. View attachment 652392

It's also easy to mark the flywheel and crank where the slot/key is, then install the flywheel on the crank where it should be, be sure to tap the flywheel on to the crank good(whether you have a good key or not do this as the key is only an alignment tool an does not hold the flywheel in place), then torque the nut.

 

[chipper1]

Okay guys I'm gonna lower the price a bit to $50 plus shipping.
I have a couple saws going out and can most likely get this out today or tomorrow if someone has an interest in it.

 

[Hdtoolmkr765]

Brett, if you or the buyer want this, let me know, it's NOS I got in a pile of other off brand saw parts, I know I'll never use it.

 

[chipper1]

Brett, if you or the buyer want this, let me know, it's NOS I got in a pile of other off brand saw parts, I know I'll never use it.

View attachment 653738

Thanks Brad, very nice of you .

 

[Hdtoolmkr765]

PM me your address, I'll send it to you so it can go with the saw.

 

[chipper1]

Sold pending funds.
Thanks guys.