Husky 55 rancher problems

[jokers]

Hi Huskyman

What I have suggested will work in some cases, but you are right, if he wants to do the job right, its likely to be piston and cylinder time. I think if it were me I would price the new parts and then probably eBay the 55 with a fair reserve. What he could probably get for the saw plus what it would cost in parts would probably put him pretty near to a new 353. I just wanted to point out that the jug isn`t always toast in a case like this.

Russ

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Oh yeah, I have saved several jugs also, but none of the pistons in them looked as bad as his

$30 plus shipping, thats my final offer

 

[jsikkema1]

I agree...

And thats why I said what I did... That scoring is very bad and very deap on the piston. It probably did a lot more harm by trying to keep it running and coaxing it to do so. The damage was getting worse I'm sure by trying to do that.

I posted this a while back-
If the scoring isn't into the chrome liner and most times its just aluminum galled onto the hard chrome you may be able to salvage the cylinder. The chrome is real thin and only a few thou or so. I have used acid to disolve the aluminum deposits with a Q-tip and some time... Hydro floric acid I believe will disolve AL but will have little effect on the chrome- please double check that with a chemist or metalurgist. Then a ball hone to re X-hatch the cylinder. Will need a new piston and rings but they are a lot less than a complete kit with a cylinder


Now the Hydrofloric acid is some nasty stuff and really be careful. Muratic acid that you buy over the counter is too week to have much of an effect and it really doesn't attack non ferous material. I even have glass beaded the inside of cylinders to remove the bulk of the material but you got to be real careful and only give it a short 2-3 sec blasts at a time- or you're gonna go though that chrome.

I can get aftermarket kits for some husky saws but not the 55

 

[jsikkema1]

here are some nice looking pistons

from a post a while back too...

3120 Husqvarna in the middle surrounde by Stihl 026's and a few others

<img src=http://www.arboristsite.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=56386>

 

[cbfarmall]

Jeff,

Wish I had a camera. Pulled a piston out of my 075 ($20 auction special) that would shame those. Looked like the 3120 piston, but with the skirt gone on one side (not true, actually, since it was on top of the piston, in the transfer ports, exhaust port, intake port, crankcase, and anywhere else the pieces would fit) and the other skirt cracked to hell. Previous owner thought that he could free the "stuck" piston by soaking it down with motor oil. Wedged piston was more like it.

Don't want to give jb false hope, but a brand-new piston fixed it up perfect. I just lightly honed the cylinder and put it back together. Now I know that there is a reason for the compression release.

Chris B.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I use acid intended to wash aluminum diesel tanks and it works well, but it does take a couple applications. Jeff where do you get hydrofloric acid?

 

[jokers]

Hi Jeff
Glad to see that you have a little time to post here.

My experience with muriatic acid has shown good results. Looking at it from a chemistry perspective it may appear to be too weak, but in actual practice it has never taken me more than about 15 minutes to swab a jug clean. Not that I`ve done hundreds, only a handful. I prefer the weaker acid that doesn`t require special ppe to handle and takes a little longer. Gives me more margin of error.

I want to emphasis again, what I suggested in my earlier post may work but it won`t be optimal. Depending on JB`s needs and circumstances, "good enough" may really be good enough.

Russ

 

[jbrody44]

Well, I took the piston and jug out today, here are pics:

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As you can see the piston in badly scored, and the jug is scored too. Both are only scored on one side (about 20% of the circumference) and are smooth as a baby's butt on the other side. I will try and clean it up with some acid and see how it looks. The jug has one spot of aluminum stuck to it, I couldn't knock it off with my fingernail, it's a small spot about 1/16" square or so. All of the damage took place around the exhaust area, the ring was worn down to almost nothing in that area. Is this common, the wear localized in one area? I will see how the jug cleans up then decide how to proceed from there.

I was checking prices on parts, the only place I found so far was jackssmallengine they want $80 for the piston, $200 for the cylinder, and $15 for the ring. Unless the cylinder includes the piston that is $285 without gaskets at which point I would just go buy a new 353. Anyone know a better source for parts?

What do you all think about the damage, is the jug salvageable? I know it's tough to tell with just pics. Thanks - JB

 

[HUSKYMAN]

Yes it is common to see damage on the exhaust side, this is why on a used saw you always pull the muffler and check for damage.

This is the classic sign of a saw that has been run too lean, but over a long period of time. Running straight gas in the saw will damage it all the way around. Running super lean for a short period of time can melt a hole in the piston.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

$200 probably includes a piston and rings in the kit.

I wouldnt put that kind of cash in the saw. The jug looks like junk to me, but now that its apart, clean it up, throw a piston and ring in it and see what happens. I think you can find one cheaper than those prices. Cripes, you can get an 066 piston and jug for that price!

Look on eBay or check with a Husky dealer

 

[jbrody44]

Hey Rocky, no, you didn't come across as rude. I like it when people just tell it like it is. I appreciate all of your input. It is clear that I did not properly care for the saw and I will be the first to admit it. At least I have learned a valuable lesson on chainsaw maintenance. I will let you all know how it turns out. If anyone has a 55 rancher piston and ring or even a can to go with it, I would be interested. Thanks - JB

 

[jbrody44]

Well; I ordered the piston, ring, jug and seals, along with a fuel filter, spark plug, and air filter. I tried cleaning up the jug with muriatic acid, but I just wasn't happy with the results, most of the aluminum was removed, but some score marks remained and I just didn't feel that a piston would last long. Yes, I am putting $200 into this saw, maybe it would be better to get a new one, but I decided to put this one back together. It is a great learning experience for me. The crank and bearings seem fine so why not? The best deal one a new 55R I could find was $299 plus shipping so this is still a lot less expensive. And the 353 is a bit more than that. This time I will adjust the carb correctly!! The link to Madsen's is great (carb adj.) wish I was smart enough to look at that about a year ago. I am now understanding the difference between 2 stroke and 4 stroke adjustments, and I only had to kill one saw to figure it out! Well, I will let you all know how it turns out. When it is all back together what would be the best break in procedure? Should I idle a couple of tanks through it or just open it up? I have seen different procedures, with my Inline 6 engines I accelerate and decelerate repeatedly to seat the rings, with bikes some folks like to open them right up to wear the rings in right off the bat. Thanks - JB

 

[Stumper]

JB, On break-in procedure there are definitely different schools of thought. FWIW I have always just run the saw but tried to go kind of slow and deliberate the first couple of tanks and avoid buried bar cuts. By slow I don't mean partial throttle-just not my normal 52 cuts in 37 seconds approach to limbing a downed tree.

 

[Crofter]

I like the sound of Stumpers approach. Make sure it is perhaps slightly on the rich side on carb high speed setting and don't be stingy on oil for premix . I wonder why some builders recommend idling a number of tanks through the saw. Perhaps it is because they know that if we get our finger on the throttle of the new beast we won't be able to control ourselves.

Frank

 

[jbrody44]

Yeah, I like that idea. I think a moderate workout is a good way to go for a break in. Idling the saw may not be enough to seat the ring and fit itself into the jug properly. Who knows, as was mentioned, I guess a lot of different procedures exist. And I will definitely go rich on the adjustment as well as mix at least 40:1.