Husky 55

[c3pilot]

Hello all, new to the site here and I'm trying to get some info on some saws I have. I did try a search of the forum but didn't find what I was looking for.

I have 2 Husky saws that I'm rebuilding. Both saws were in pieces and given to me in a box.The first one is a Husky 55 967 05 29-00 s/n 04 510 3077.I rebuilt this saw with the best parts in the box not intending to rebuild the second. Well....I was so pleased with the rebuild of the first saw that I might go ahead with the second saw Husky 55 1997 7322938.
Which brings me to my question, the left over flywheel (part# 503 79 00-01, and I'm not sure which saw this was on origonally) only has one starter pawl/rivet/spring. Is there any chance this flywheel setup only used one pawl? The other flywheel used on the first saw has 2. There is a hole for a 2nd rivet on the second flywheel, just hopeing that I might not need to track down more parts.

If anyone can decode the saw numbers I would really like to know any info about them. The first saw got a new top end (cylinder/piston/ring), I went with the cheaper Chinese parts and it seems to be running really well. Time will tell though.

Are these 55's considered a pro saw?

Thanks in advance, Great site!

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Not a "Pro Saw", but still a nice runner. They have minor quirks, but they run great. Good luck and welcome to AS.

 

[Roanoker494]

"The first one is a Husky 55 967 05 29-00 s/n 04 510 3077." This one was built in 2004, not really any other important information included.

"second saw Husky 55 1997 7322938" This one was built in 1997

Both saws would have originally had a 46mm bore and they are 53cc, there are no larger "big bore" top ends available.

Your flywheel will need two starter pawls but the 503 79 00-01 flywheel is for a model 55. Here is a page from the IPL that shows the part numbers you will need. I know the IPL only shows one pawl but you do need two.

I would consider the models 50, 51 and 55 to be a "Pro" grade saw because they match all of the criteria. Two piece magnesium crankcase, separate cylinder and separate fuel/oil tank supported by anti vibration buffers. They are certainly much better than the 455 rancher, which is what replaced the 55 Rancher.

 

[Wagnerwerks]

I would consider the models 50, 51 and 55 to be a "Pro" grade saw because they match all of the criteria. Two piece magnesium crankcase, separate cylinder and separate fuel/oil tank supported by anti vibration buffers. They are certainly much better than the 455 rancher, which is what replaced the 55 Rancher.

You're right about the better than a 455. I just kinda go with an xp=pro saw mind set.

On a side note.... It's a seriously good thing for the AS community that you're such a chainsaw addict...lol I for one... Thank you.

 

[Roanoker494]

You're right about the better than a 455. I just kinda go with an xp=pro saw mind set.

On a side note.... It's a seriously good thing for the AS community that you're such a chainsaw addict...lol I for one... Thank you.

Thank you but I have been finding myself less interested in saws here recently. I can tell you that the largest majority of my saw knowledge has come from this site, plus I have always been a "taker apart-er" type of person. Don't care if I could replace a item for free, I am still going to take it apart and see if it can be fixed.

When determining if a saw is "pro" or not I go more by comparable quality. You also will not find a Husqvarna 61 marked as a xp though they most certainly are a "pro" saw.

 

[fearofpavement]

So Roanoker, what has your interest now?

 

[Cliff R]

True, the 55's are not designated as "Professional" saws. Even so, they share many features found in professional models, as mentioned.

Also keep in mind that the 55's came in several "flavors". Some of the pre-Rancher models used closed port P/C's. These models have a compression release, and 1mm smaller bore than the open port versions. They are strong runners, and cut faster than the open port versions.

I've owned quite a few 55's, in both closed and open port versions. I ended up selling all my open port models, as they just don't rev and cut like the closed port models.

Two negatives associated with 55's are the plastic intake and the carb attaching bolts stripping out in it. I've never once had this happen to any of the ones I've owned or worked on, but it is mentioned frequently enough to make one use a bit less torque when tightening down the screws to make sure it doesn't happen.

The oilers are also crankshaft driven, not clutch driven, and are not supposed to be as good as what a "pro" saw would use. I've never had one failure of, or even problem with an oiler on a 55 to date.

My two closed port 55's are at the top of my favorites list, even though I have several larger Husqvarna "pro" saws in the line-up. As I get older, I find myself taking along two or three 50-55cc saws on every outing. They are lighter, fast, and use less fuel than my larger saws doing the same thing. Since I cut mostly tops left over from logging operations, att the end of the day you'll find just as much wood on the ground to load, and your back thanks you for using the smaller saws to cut it!......Cliff

 

[c3pilot]

Thx for the info guys! I didn't really know what made a pro saw a pro saw? I always thought it was a power/weight issue, but it's good to know that these 55's share some of the pro features. I'm hopeing that means that I can get these things to last along time.

Roanoker, thx for clearing up the IPL. I had seen the one you had posted and it was creating some confusion as it only showed one pawl. I will start tracking down the parts that I need for it. And I completly understand the need to take apart (even if it's brand new)! It's like a sickness and it drives my wife NUTS! My other hobbies are guns, mainly shotguns, and the first thing I have to do when I buy a new one is COMPLETELY break it down. Some of the most challenging were the Beretta 686 over/under, and the Browning A5.

CliffR, good heads up on the carb bolts and the oiler. Is there something I can do about the small amount of oil these saws leak while sitting over night? I hope it's not a leak in the case. And the one 55 I have running has proven to be pleanty for my back! But it's still fun.

I have an 1.5 acres in a South Carolina slash pine forest that I'm clearing that is full of 75'+ pines. The 55 is ripping thru them! I just need to work on my aim.

 

[Vibes]

Is there something I can do about the small amount of oil these saws leak while sitting over night? I hope it's not a leak in the case. And the one 55 I have running has proven to be pleanty for my back! But it's still fun.

Lay them on a peice of cardboard and save the cardboard for fire starting. I think most of my saws leave there mark after a days use.

If you are interested in an operators manual for those saws I have one you can have.

 

[Cliff R]

Neither one of mine leak any oil while sitting, but I have had to replace the gas cap on one of them once, now the other one needs a new one......Cliff

 

[SheetRock Bob]

I read where a guy who claimed he worked on Huskys for years and said the 55 was the best all around saw Husqvarna ever made. I'v been looking for a medium 50cc ish saw and I just bought a 55 on eBay. Its got a new closed port cylinder. I cant wait for it to get here.

Big pro saws are awesome, and its unreal how fast they can rip thru a big log, but they are heavy and wear you out too fast.
My advice: If you are looking for a saw dont get a big saw if you don't need it. Stick with a 'light weight' medium size saw.(50-60cc)
I LOVE my Big Husky, but I also Love my light weight Stihl 017 just as much.

Looking forward to my 55
may post some picks

 

[Roanoker494]

So Roanoker, what has your interest now?

As of right this minute I am looking at buying a 86 F250, that has a 90 7.3 IDI diesel, and seeing what kind of power I can get out of it. I am also keeping a close eye out for a "hot rod" to build. I have found a couple that have my interest but the leading candidate is a one owner 69 Nova with the original inline 6, 2spd powerglide, nice interior and a solid body.

Thx for the info guys! I didn't really know what made a pro saw a pro saw? I always thought it was a power/weight issue, but it's good to know that these 55's share some of the pro features. I'm hopeing that means that I can get these things to last along time.

Roanoker, thx for clearing up the IPL. I had seen the one you had posted and it was creating some confusion as it only showed one pawl. I will start tracking down the parts that I need for it. And I completly understand the need to take apart (even if it's brand new)! It's like a sickness and it drives my wife NUTS! My other hobbies are guns, mainly shotguns, and the first thing I have to do when I buy a new one is COMPLETELY break it down. Some of the most challenging were the Beretta 686 over/under, and the Browning A5.

CliffR, good heads up on the carb bolts and the oiler. Is there something I can do about the small amount of oil these saws leak while sitting over night? I hope it's not a leak in the case. And the one 55 I have running has proven to be pleanty for my back! But it's still fun.

I have an 1.5 acres in a South Carolina slash pine forest that I'm clearing that is full of 75'+ pines. The 55 is ripping thru them! I just need to work on my aim.

I have often heard the term "semi-pro" and I suppose the 55 may fall into that category. I would suspect your oil leak has to do with direct drive oil pump. Like has already been mentioned most newer saws have a oil pump that only operates when the clutch is engaged, meaning there is no oil flowing while the saw is at idle. The 55 starts spitting oil as soon as it is started and does not stop until you shut the saw down, so if you let the saw idle the oil will just collect under the clutch cover because the chain is not moving.

 

[Cliff R]

"As of right this minute I am looking at buying a 86 F250, that has a 90 7.3 IDI diesel, and seeing what kind of power I can get out of it. I am also keeping a close eye out for a "hot rod" to build. I have found a couple that have my interest but the leading candidate is a one owner 69 Nova with the original inline 6, 2spd powerglide, nice interior and a solid body."

The later intercooled 7.3 trucks are a better deal all the way around, avoid the E40D, or at least plan on spending some money on it to keep it happy behind a 7.3 once you start making serious power with it.

The Nova is the perfect candidate for a nice street/strip car. I chose a 73 Ventura. I installed a 455 a few years ago, it runs under the legal roll bar rule with a pretty "mild" set-up in full street trim on DOT tires. I add weight and shift at 5000rpm's to keep the Officials happy:

Cliff Ruggles Ventura Ames Pontiac Tri Power Nationals 2011 part 2 -1/1 - YouTube

As for Husqvarna 55's they are great little saws, sort of hit and miss to get a closed port model. All of the ones dubbed "Rancher" that I've bought were open port. Both of my closed port models are very good runners, considerably faster than the open port models I've owned. They are also best suited to 18" bars with .325" set-ups....IMHO.....Cliff

 

[c3pilot]

Vibes, Thx for the offer I'll shoot you a PM.

CliffR, It looks loke I will need fuel caps too. One started leaking so I swaped it with the other saw. It did fine for a little while but it too seems to be leaking a little now. Is there something I should check tank wise before replacing the caps?

Roanoker494, good point on the oiler oiling when the motor is running. Not a great design IMHO but not a big deal.

 

[Cliff R]

This new fuel is hard on the "O" ring. New caps are readily available, as that design is used on quite a few models....Cliff

 

[Wagnerwerks]

Cliff... As kinda a thread jack, Can you tell me the dif in the rancher 50 saws? I found a white top model for cheap that I believe needs a ring. Would love to know a little more about it. Thanks.

 

[Cliff R]

To date I own or have owned at least half a dozen 55's, one 51, and one 50 "Special". I suspect, by how they perform, that the 50 and 51's were open port, and all the "Rancher" models were open port as well.

The two closed port models that I have, are much stronger runners, they run like one would expect a Husqvarna XP saw to run, with lots of rpms no load, and loving to stay in the upper rpm range in the cut.

The open port models rev fine, but enjoy a broader/smoother power curve, not the quick/raspy/narrow/high rpm power curve typical of Husqvarna's closed port models.

My 50 Special is not a fast cutting saw, and may have read somewhere that the P/C is different from the standard model 50, but I'm not really sure about that?

I had a white top 60 Rancher, and thought it was a "turd" in comparison to my 262XP, so I put a 268XP top end on it! It was a completely different saw after that move, but the swap was somewhat complicated, so I woln't be going down that path again.....Cliff