Husky muffler revisted
- Thread starter mga
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mga
wandering
OK 4.5 inches is much easer to come up with than 9 inches. Will see what turns up. I had to go in early and stay lateit was supposed to be my day off. I'll let you know what I turn up as soon as I get back Saturday.
thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, I still won't know . I went in there at 9:00 on the dot , not early not late only to find out they are only open 5 days a week . Saturday is not one of those days.
Their website lists they do have such an animal available for about $1.50 that might have worked well for you initially. It is a grage 10.8 (grade 8 S.A.E.) uses a 5mm allen wrench. the description says that nominally 16 mm of the end are threaded. Thats barely over 5/8" of threads, according to the generic description. I would much rather use something that nearly bottoms out on the hole. There is another one That is a grade 8.8 (grade 5 S.A.E) that is threaded from the end to the cap. Uses a 10 mm socket is 110mm long, zinc plated.
My prefferences would be to use the first one described. AS LONG AS it is threaded for at least an inch. The description showed it as a shouldered bolt. If it was shoulderless with an inch of threads this would be perfect. Otherwise the tap bolt with threads to the cap would fit the bill for your fix. I will be there again Monday morning and drop in on them to browse a bit and find out if they have what you need for the 350.
Aaron
Their website lists they do have such an animal available for about $1.50 that might have worked well for you initially. It is a grage 10.8 (grade 8 S.A.E.) uses a 5mm allen wrench. the description says that nominally 16 mm of the end are threaded. Thats barely over 5/8" of threads, according to the generic description. I would much rather use something that nearly bottoms out on the hole. There is another one That is a grade 8.8 (grade 5 S.A.E) that is threaded from the end to the cap. Uses a 10 mm socket is 110mm long, zinc plated.
My prefferences would be to use the first one described. AS LONG AS it is threaded for at least an inch. The description showed it as a shouldered bolt. If it was shoulderless with an inch of threads this would be perfect. Otherwise the tap bolt with threads to the cap would fit the bill for your fix. I will be there again Monday morning and drop in on them to browse a bit and find out if they have what you need for the 350.
Aaron
mga
wandering
you da man!
i'm not in a hurry because i'm still looking on-line for that "new" replacement muffler they are offering. i wrote back and asked them where i can find one.
i also emailed a couple of chainsaw places that advertise here in the forum to see if they can acquire it. i gave them the part numbers, so i sure hope they check their emails.....
but....if you get them, let me know and i'll gladly pay pal you, or send a check, to cover the costs.
i'm not in a hurry because i'm still looking on-line for that "new" replacement muffler they are offering. i wrote back and asked them where i can find one.
i also emailed a couple of chainsaw places that advertise here in the forum to see if they can acquire it. i gave them the part numbers, so i sure hope they check their emails.....
but....if you get them, let me know and i'll gladly pay pal you, or send a check, to cover the costs.
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know you are wanting your saw back, and I don't mind lending a bit of help when it is wanted.
Don't forget that Lorax said they are readily available over there too. Stainless sure stays looking nice. but if it ever starts to gall it will sieze and twist off before you even know it. Really nice except for that one drawback. But then if thats all there is , that all there is. We'll find out Monday morning what they have locally. I'll PM the details and let you know what I find out.
Enjoy the wekeend.
The Lorax
ArboristSite Guru
I called into the local mechanical shop and they didn't have any M5 bolts that were longer than 90mm, they also didn't have any threaded bar that size either, but the local chandlery place had threaded bar in SS that was M5.
I bought a 39in long piece.
Do you think you can use stainless? If not I will try another machine shop that has a better selection of fasteners, they will almost certainly have the high tensile bar, but I am not sure about the 110mm cap screws.
If you want some of the bar I will get nuts and spring washers to match.
I think if you use a little anti-seize on the threads it should be OK.
I know about stainless galling and cracking but once the threads are OK it shouldn't be that big a problem.
I bought a 39in long piece.
Do you think you can use stainless? If not I will try another machine shop that has a better selection of fasteners, they will almost certainly have the high tensile bar, but I am not sure about the 110mm cap screws.
If you want some of the bar I will get nuts and spring washers to match.
I think if you use a little anti-seize on the threads it should be OK.
I know about stainless galling and cracking but once the threads are OK it shouldn't be that big a problem.
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
I couldn't believe it when I went in there on my way to work. They wanted $26.38 for 2 5M bolts 110 mm long. I told her I didnt need 2 boxes of 100 just 2 bolts. "The EACH price for those is $13.19. That's not for a box of them."
Here is a link into their site where they have allthread you can use for a stud in there.
Stainless would work fine as long as you aren't using stainless nut too. That is half the chance of it gauling and siezing.
Fastenal does have some steel altread in 1 meter lengths on the website for cheap, $2.38, but it wasn't in stock locally.
This should be such a simple thing to fix.
The Lorax indicated that he could lay his hands on some readily where he is from. Might be less hassle going that way to get some.
Here is a link into their site where they have allthread you can use for a stud in there.
Stainless would work fine as long as you aren't using stainless nut too. That is half the chance of it gauling and siezing.
Fastenal does have some steel altread in 1 meter lengths on the website for cheap, $2.38, but it wasn't in stock locally.
This should be such a simple thing to fix.
The Lorax indicated that he could lay his hands on some readily where he is from. Might be less hassle going that way to get some.
wasajco
ArboristSite Member
Found this on the Fastenal site:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0141707
Is that what is needed? My used 350 is coming and I will probably buy those and drill for aircraft wire. Cobalt will easily drill 12.9. Black oxide drills should as well.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=0141707
Is that what is needed? My used 350 is coming and I will probably buy those and drill for aircraft wire. Cobalt will easily drill 12.9. Black oxide drills should as well.
mga
wandering
that might be just the ticket.
ok...i need a crash course on metric threads here....are the threads on a M5 x 0.8 always the same? my bolts are "fine", so would those threads also be the same?
The Lorax
ArboristSite Guru
M5 is 5mm dia.
0.8 is the thread pitch ie: 0.8mm between threads.
any M5 x 0.8 should fit any other M5 x 0.8 assuming the threads are good.
0.8 is the thread pitch ie: 0.8mm between threads.
any M5 x 0.8 should fit any other M5 x 0.8 assuming the threads are good.
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mga
wandering
thanks again.
i was just reading that M5 x 0.8 is a "course" thread.
would there be an M5 x ? fine?
i don't mean to ask dumb questions.........just want to make sure i order the right ones.
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The Lorax
ArboristSite Guru
I don't know what they term a coarse or fine thread.
Basically if the pitch is a greater number then the thread is coarser, the less the number the finer the thread.
So you can possibly get a M5 x 0.5 and that would be a finer pitch thread then the 0.8.
However the pitch for most of the commonly available M5 will be 0.8 almost all the Husky parts use these in my experience.
mga
wandering
hey...thanks you guys....i ordered 4 of them from Fastenal
should get them in a couple days.
i'm going to make sure they screw in deep and use the jb weld and make my own bracket for the muffler.
should get them in a couple days.
i'm going to make sure they screw in deep and use the jb weld and make my own bracket for the muffler.
KsWoodsMan
Addicted to ArboristSite
Now if only Metric and S.A.E. were even close to being the same LOL
With Metric an M5x0.8 is coarse and a M5x0.5 is fine
With S.A.E. a 1/4 -24 is coarse and a 1/4 -32 is fine, 24 threads per inch versus 32 threads per inch. Just to look at it, what we would call a fine thread is a coarse thread in Metric and an extra fine thread for us would be fine threaded.
Hardness gradings are different too SAE grade 5 = metric 8.8, SAE grade 8 = metric grade 10.8 . Different ways of rating the same thing I dont know what the equivelant for SAE grade 3 or 10. But at first I thought I was getting a better bolt with a 13mm grade 8.8 then I was with a 1/2 inch grade 8 going into an oversized hole. The 13 mm sheared a couple of times in a day till I figured out why.
MGA : I forgot to mention. With 110 mm long bolts, the shoulder on the bolt may strike the threads on the casting before they clamp the muffler. You might have to chuck the bolt in a drill and take it to a grinder to gently remove just enough to get them to go in fully. Or get some washers to shim it up between the bolt head and the muffler body.
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keith66
ArboristSite Member
i had the same problem w/ my 350. my mechanic at the golf course put heli-coil in it. it lasted 2 hours and fell out again. so i got pissed and ran it until it burnt a hole in my bar resovoir. so the golf course bought me a new jonsered.
slofr8
ArboristSite Operative
I read threw this thread fast and may have missed it but back in the '80s when I was logging, Husky had a replacement muffler stud that was bigger on the end that threaded into the saw. Then you could over size and tap the hole and everything else was the same. Muffler slipped right on.
Dan.
Dan.
mga
wandering
what i ended up doing was using a heli-coil and used the original bolts and muffler. i tightened it all up as much as possible, then had a small diameter bar tack-welded across the two bolt heads to keep them from turning loose.
this set up has been thru several trees so far and the muffler is still tight. i had emailed husky about this 350 problem and their "fix" was for me to order a new muffler that mounts at 3 points instead of two. my fix was much cheaper and probably works better than theirs. if i ever need to remove it, i just have to grind a small weld off the bolt head and remove them.
this set up has been thru several trees so far and the muffler is still tight. i had emailed husky about this 350 problem and their "fix" was for me to order a new muffler that mounts at 3 points instead of two. my fix was much cheaper and probably works better than theirs. if i ever need to remove it, i just have to grind a small weld off the bolt head and remove them.
avalancher
Arboristsite Raconteur
That really stinks! Husky developed a problem for anyone that owns a Husky350, and then wants to sell you a part to fix it!
Just out of curiosity, how did Husky plan on bolting a three bolt muffler to a saw that only has two bolt holes? Did they figure you should drill and tap another hole?
I am really disapointed in Husky on this matter!
Biker Dude
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was just talking to my local husky dealer about this problem and he said that because the 350 winds out at 13K rpm it causes a harmonic vibration which backs the bolts out. Supposedly the factory says that after the 3 bolt fix the saw has to be re-tuned to max out at 11K rpm. I recommended using keenserts instead of helicoils. I use them on bikes I repair and they never get loose.
keensert info
keensert info
