Husky small mount bars.

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weedkilla

Ain't no guru of nuthin'
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Ok, so not much of this is really new content, but as very few of the older threads still have pics I thought I'd start a new one.
Disclaimer - my scale is in no way pretending to be a calibrated, super accurate thing. Comparing weights I show here and those from other scales should be done cautiously. Relative weights of different bars on my scale are, of course, accurate relative to each other.
That being said, I haven't ever seen a reason to doubt the numbers this scale generates, but my brain thinks in round numbers and I don't need to quibble over a handful of grams anyway.

So - I use a heap of 16" 325 050 bars in a year. Cost, longevity and weight matter to me.

Norwegian husky 16" 325 050 66dl.
image.jpg
665 grams.

Norwegian husky 15" 325 050 64dl.
image.jpg
597gm. Well used, no paint, dressed countless times. This bar just won't die.

Cannon supermini c1 mount. 15" 325 050. 66dl on a husky 346.
image.jpg
768gm

I don't have one here but Canadian husky/Oregon pro lite typically weigh between 700 and 750 grams.
Sugi/tsumura lightweights weigh about 750 grams.

By the time I throw away a laminated bar in these sizes the nose is dead about the same time as the bar is dead. The benefit of a solid bar is it is less likely to be twisted, and feels a bit nicer to cut with. The replaceable nose is irrelevant in my opinion.
 
The cannon supermini requires some more discussion.
Firstly the cannon bar dl counts are some sort of random number generator. This 15" bar is exactly the same length as a 16" husky. It is listed as 64dl, but requires 66dl.
It is a multi fit tail, it may well be a 64dl on another power head.

The multi fit tail is nothing new to many. These can work well or poorly depending on situation. When I first got this bar and mounted it to my 346 I found it barely oiled at all. Plenty of oil was spewing down the power head though. This saw is far from new, and could use a new backing plate, but I felt the issue was more than just that.
These multi fit mounts have also been reported to work poorly on 550s.

So I did some measuring and came up with some fixes.
image.jpg
On the left you can see the two adjuster holes and two oiler holes. On the right you can see a layer of electrical tape (very thin) that has been trimmed to make the oval hole round.
image.jpg
The other side of the bar showing the mods.
The round adjuster hole is filled with silicone, the oval hole has been partially filled with silicone. It doesn't need to be a perfect circle, just needs to be below the oiler on the power head.
You can also see the oiler hole has been ground lower, approximating the teardrop shape you see on a tsumura. I like that style oiler hole, they seem less likely to block, but the hole needed to move down anyway to meet the oiler outlet on the power head.

A couple of things on filling unused holes on bars. Pretty much anything works, all manner of epoxies are good, a piece of wood or hose in the unused holes works. Imagination and whatever is lying around the shed is what you need. Something that can be trimmed to shape, and smoothed flat is required. This is especially easy with half cured epoxy.
The bar must be clean!!!!! Super clean. Blow it out with air, use brake cleaner, blow it out again. That sort of clean. Nothing that leaves a residue - like petrol is going to give a good surface to bond too.
You need to take into account what will happen when you flip the bar. That's what the hole in my tape and half filled hole is about. It allows the bar to be flipped. If that hole didn't have a passage through to the bar rail I'd probably just use the tape and replace it each time I flipped the bar. If I was using an epoxy to fill the holes I could put a little Vaseline on the tape, and just use it as a dam for the epoxy and remove the tape when the epoxy cured.
I didn't want a very permanent fix so silicone was my choice.
The bar rail must be cleaned of any epoxy/silicone. Use your brain and that's not too complicated.

End result - oils as it should, and now I'll do the other side.
 
Thought I'd add a few more that are other sizes.

3/8lp 14" techlite. My desire for a 3/8lp rim for small spline continues to grow.
image.jpg
 
One last 325 bar as I scored a couple of nos bars.

Windsor mini pro 18" 325 50 72dl
image.jpg
986grams

A tsumura Lightweight 18" is reportedly 870 grams.

It's also worth noting that the cannon supermini has the same mount for the nose, but it's a bit longer. Different shape to the bar also, cannon has a narrower tail, and more belly in the bar.
 
3/8 stuff

Windsor speed tip 3/8 050 64dl

image.jpg

982 grams

GB something. 3/8 058 64dl
image.jpg

984 grams.

Tsumura 3/8 058 72dl

image.jpg
1147 grams

Oregon power match 3/8 058 68dl
image.jpg
1090 grams.
 
What about the oregon micro lite? I agree those husky bars take a beating.
 
What about the oregon micro lite? I agree those husky bars take a beating.
I've never had an Oregon micro lite - but I've had some Canadian husky nk 325 bars and I believe they are one and the same.
I may have gotten a bad batch, but I didn't get very good life.
 
Ok, so not much of this is really new content, but as very few of the older threads still have pics I thought I'd start a new one.
Disclaimer - my scale is in no way pretending to be a calibrated, super accurate thing. Comparing weights I show here and those from other scales should be done cautiously. Relative weights of different bars on my scale are, of course, accurate relative to each other.
That being said, I haven't ever seen a reason to doubt the numbers this scale generates, but my brain thinks in round numbers and I don't need to quibble over a handful of grams anyway.

So - I use a heap of 16" 325 050 bars in a year. Cost, longevity and weight matter to me.

Norwegian husky 16" 325 050 66dl.
View attachment 434899
665 grams.

Norwegian husky 15" 325 050 64dl.
View attachment 434900
597gm. Well used, no paint, dressed countless times. This bar just won't die.

Cannon supermini c1 mount. 15" 325 050. 66dl on a husky 346.
View attachment 434902
768gm

I don't have one here but Canadian husky/Oregon pro lite typically weigh between 700 and 750 grams.
Sugi/tsumura lightweights weigh about 750 grams.

By the time I throw away a laminated bar in these sizes the nose is dead about the same time as the bar is dead. The benefit of a solid bar is it is less likely to be twisted, and feels a bit nicer to cut with. The replaceable nose is irrelevant in my opinion.

How do I tell a Norwegian 16" .325 0.050 husky bar from a Canadian one?
 
How do I tell a Norwegian 16" .325 0.050 husky bar from a Canadian one?
Only by marking on the packaging for a reliable answer.

Other stuff I've noticed is -
I've seen three different qualities of husky bars sold at times. Farm tough - small nose in 325. Not marketed as anything - Oregon. Marketed as pro - Norwegian. These are descriptions I've only seen when getting bars out of the UK. If I buy locally it's hit and hope, with a slight price increase for the Norwegian stuff.
I haven't seen "Made in" marked on a husky bar in ages.
The weight is different, and I've noticed a difference in wear rates.
 
My bar came on my saw. No packaging. No other way to tell?
I edited my post and added more stuff, but short answer is no. Not that I have noticed.
I haven't had both bars new and in front of me at the same time though.

It's only recently that I had a bad batch of bars, and I'm still trying to work out exactly what the issues are surrounding my poor bar life over those bars.
I changed bar oil and chain brand aswell in an attempt to improve life since then, which doesn't help me have great quality answers.

What I considered poor bar life was badly worn after two worn out chains and dead before four. Even that is subjective - all it takes is an employee to run a bar with a blocked oiler for a tank or two and bar wear goes through the roof.

Anything you can add, I'm keen to hear. My last care package of bars from Terry Landrum is nearly gone.
 
From a 353 in 2010
f20e87e121dde5e6879b6b9e7f1384de.jpg

b0dc5cfb0b2a2bcc36e6837687061d41.jpg


Stamped 517 on either side. No idea how it wears yet, or its exact weight (scale is packed in storage ATM)
 
My bar came on my saw. No packaging. No other way to tell?

The info on the bar (always) has a different pattern - and the rivet pattern for the nose sprocket is different as well, at least on all I have seen.

From a 353 in 2010
f20e87e121dde5e6879b6b9e7f1384de.jpg

b0dc5cfb0b2a2bcc36e6837687061d41.jpg


Stamped 517 on either side. No idea how it wears yet, or its exact weight (scale is packed in storage ATM)

That's a Norwegian original Husky, no doubt at all.
 
Thanks Nikko,
The weight is 1.4520lbs / 1lb 7.23oz / 23.24oz / 0.6586kg on this one
 
FWIW a new windsor speed tip k095 15"58dl .325/058 RSN is 844grams & windsor speed tip rsn k095 16"60dl 3/8/063 is 876grams. Just thought l'd post these wieghts up. I think if you wanted the absolute lightest bar for k095 would be to modify a stihl 'light' laminated bar in 3005 mount. l have a 14" picco stihl light 3/8 050 bar....it weighs 375grams, not sure what a 16" wieghs.
 
FWIW a new windsor speed tip k095 15"58dl .325/058 RSN is 844grams & windsor speed tip rsn k095 16"60dl 3/8/063 is 876grams. Just thought l'd post these wieghts up. I think if you wanted the absolute lightest bar for k095 would be to modify a stihl 'light' laminated bar in 3005 mount. l have a 14" picco stihl light 3/8 050 bar....it weighs 375grams, not sure what a 16" wieghs.
Without having the stihl light and the husky techlite on the same scale it'd be hard to know which is lighter. Memory says the stihl will work out a couple of dl shorter, especially once modded to suit a husky.
 

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