What Axe do you recommend for splitting some oak ?

[telecasterfool]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

To the original poster: After you get some time on the Fiskars stuff, you may want to try a wood handles splitting axe, just to see if you want to evolve in that direction. Wooden handles feel better to a lot of people, and you can create an entire tool the way you like. I'm not advocating either style of tool. I own, use, and enjoy both. Good luck!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Unless it's gnarly, Oak should split pretty easily. Fiskars X27 and work from the outside-in. Also, try a single bit axe sometime - you may be surprised.

 

[moxiemaul]

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

I've done the same on 2 of my axes and my old sears maul. I've been experimenting a bit using a couple variations of nautical serving and some weaving of the paracord- a pleasant evening in the shop either way. Early on I tried a leather "overstrike" guard from etsy- not much good it tore quickly, small paracord is a lot more robust.

I tend to prefer a larger palm swell than Council uses- Beaver Tooth handles have a somewhat larger swell. My fave is a 28" from Brant Cochran- I got one of their handles for an ancient rusty dayton head my dad found in the field when I was a kid- really like their haft design unfortunately they don't sell longer ones.

A handle that lets you get away with a sloppy strike just isn't a big win IMHO. What happens when you get the axe stuck really well and have to bring in a 2nd tool to hopefully break the round enough to get the 1st one out; its really important to choose where the axe is going to hit.

 

[Mad Professor]

Have some oak rounds to hand split.
What axe do you recommend ?
Probably need a 27-29 inch length handle.

Will be using the wood for campfires.

Thank you

Council Tool. Made in NC USA

Council Tool Axes

 

[Mad Professor]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

+1 on Council.

I take a MTB tire, slice ~4" then duct tape near the head. Helps when I mis-swing. Axes and mauls.