Husky vs Stihl vs Echo for Milling
- Thread starter Ethobling
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If you guys keep buying the Chinese rip-off saws, in the future they will be the ONLY saws available.
I wonder how any and all of you would feel if:
1. You got ripped off, and
2. None of gave a ****, and bought your stolen stuff.
Just some food for thought...
I own a wide variety of brands. Echo, Poulon, Husqvarna, and Stihl. I have given patronage to all of those brands (except Poulon...those saws were free from a neighbor). I own 3 Stihl saws including my recently purchased 462, which was $1200.
Stihl ain't going anywhere. Husky ain't going anywhere. I'm not rich, but I need to make a living. I can't go and spend another $1200+ on a milling saw at the moment.
Holtzfforma is a problem solver. It fits a niche. It's cheap, but I don't expect it to last nearly as long as a Husky or Stihl. That's totally FINE. Maybe once a Holtz saw starts crapping out, I can have the funds to buy a proper Husky/Stihl.
Just my 2 cents.
So you've never bought anything that has a pirated design? Always from the original manufacturer and never from China? I doubt it. Get off your soap box.
Question: How effectively will a 395 mill a full 36" of oak? Is it too much for it?
I'm trying to figure out the absolute max of what I will be milling, and I think that is the absolute max. I can't imagine milling anything larger than that.
I'm trying to figure out the absolute max of what I will be milling, and I think that is the absolute max. I can't imagine milling anything larger than that.
I've never done it but seen several videos of guys doing it with great success. The only thing bigger is a 3120xp in the Husqvarna line.
Gotcha. I'm trying to convince myself out of getting the Holtz 888, especially if I don't need it. It's significantly more expensive than the 395 clone.
To clarify: I want a Holtz saw for several reasons:
1. It's cheap
2. I can work on it and learn from it without fearing I'll break a $1500 saw
3. They seem to have gotten much better in quality in the past few years.
Now if I can just find a G395 that isn't that ugly blue color...lol
Yep, that's why they exist. I have seen orange ones on their website, are they out of stock?
Yeah. Out of stock.
It does it fine, what I use to mill on my Alaskan. Biggest thing is letting the saw do the cutting and not pushing it it cut faster then it wants to. I could get about 3 passes before having to swap chains or touch up the one on the saw. Heck I've done the same with my 390xp in a pinch, you can tell the 390xp is working harder then the 394/5xp.
Question:
If I get a 395, what would be the best "bang for the buck" modifications to make it a better milling saw? I guess my first priority is saw longevity (but power also), so would a more open muffler help? If so, which one would be a good option for a fair price?
Thanks in advance.
If I get a 395, what would be the best "bang for the buck" modifications to make it a better milling saw? I guess my first priority is saw longevity (but power also), so would a more open muffler help? If so, which one would be a good option for a fair price?
Thanks in advance.
Sean, I avoid Chinese products whenever possible, and I do not own any motorized forestry equipment made in China. I’d like to see you get ripped off and be just fine with it... or are you okay with theft? The only people I’ve seen that are okay with theft are thieves. If you don’t like me objecting to theft then cry me an F-ing river.
Best bang for buck is a muffler mod, and tune. They do get pretty loud after a muff mod. You can always have it ported. That wakes them up pretty good, but can affect longevity if done improperly. Truly this is one thing where you just can't have a big enough saw if you plan on doing a lot of saw milling.
In the sake of trying to stay on track I'll omit my comment and just block the instigator.
I suggest a 8 series stihl or the 3120 husky, buy something you will grow into not something you will grow out of. Buy once and cry once and have the right tool, Yea you can buy the china express knockoff and spend another hundred or three getting it oiling enough, strong enough clutch/bearing/drum/ rim and replacing any of the other qwerky parts it comes with or improvements you want, remember there is 0 repair warranty for you once you get it but you can spray paint it pink if blue or fiber is no your cup of tea. You could start looking in your area up to a few hours drive away for a saw to tear down and build yourself jumping in with both feet.
Whatever you decide I highly suggest searching heavily in here and google through threads at what your chosen model needs such as what improvements, common fixes, make lists of needed modifications and look for videos to see how others physically do things like take covers off and really clean a saw before storage and lastly make lists of necessary tools and extra parts to start acquiring.
Whatever you decide I highly suggest searching heavily in here and google through threads at what your chosen model needs such as what improvements, common fixes, make lists of needed modifications and look for videos to see how others physically do things like take covers off and really clean a saw before storage and lastly make lists of necessary tools and extra parts to start acquiring.
Gotcha. Yeah, I'll probably need more than earmuffs after a mod.
How can an improper port job affect durability? Can a properly done job still affect durability?
Thanks for the input. I really want a proper 3120, but there's no way I can afford it atm.
I like the idea of getting a Holtz and then fixing anything that breaks along the way so I can get good experience messing with a saw that isn't expensive. If the piston goes caput? Great! I'll learn how to replace the piston. Carb wont stay in tune? Great! I'll learn how to put on and tune a new carb.
Again, I would love to spend the cash on a 3120 or 881, but I don't have the money. If someone wants to donate one, I'm all for it.
You are looking at the clone saws with the right attitude. There's a chance you won't have to replace anything. I would suggest jotting down some of the tidbits of good information you get through this thread. There are several good tuning videos on YouTube. As far as doing a muffler mod, remember the saw will be on its side so be sure to direct exhaust outlets away from you. You may need to open up the oil holes on the bar so it will
Realistically, with your mind set, application, and goals, the G070 might be a good option. Especially since it allows you to upsize to a 66mm piston if you need/want.Gotcha. Yeah, I'll probably need more than earmuffs after a mod.
How can an improper port job affect durability? Can a properly done job still affect durability?
Thanks for the input. I really want a proper 3120, but there's no way I can afford it atm.
I like the idea of getting a Holtz and then fixing anything that breaks along the way so I can get good experience messing with a saw that isn't expensive. If the piston goes caput? Great! I'll learn how to replace the piston. Carb wont stay in tune? Great! I'll learn how to put on and tune a new carb.
Again, I would love to spend the cash on a 3120 or 881, but I don't have the money. If someone wants to donate one, I'm all for it.
When your porting your essentially changing the airflow through the engine via changing the ports, cylinder height and at times ignition timing. There are great gains to doing this. There are also guys that are really good at it and longevity isn't an issue. Poor porting can decrease power output and at worst cause the engine to wear out pretty quickly. Biggest thing is it can be hard on the piston ring (s). I love ported saws and own quite a few, but my big saws I use I typically let alone out side a muffler mod. A "woods" port job typically give a good power bump and doest effect the long-term operation of the saw. Think of it like putting a cam and bumping the compression in you car engine. Bigger cam, higher compression more power, the more you make the chances of it lasting longer go down.Gotcha. Yeah, I'll probably need more than earmuffs after a mod.
How can an improper port job affect durability? Can a properly done job still affect durability?
Thanks for the input. I really want a proper 3120, but there's no way I can afford it atm.
I like the idea of getting a Holtz and then fixing anything that breaks along the way so I can get good experience messing with a saw that isn't expensive. If the piston goes caput? Great! I'll learn how to replace the piston. Carb wont stay in tune? Great! I'll learn how to put on and tune a new carb.
Again, I would love to spend the cash on a 3120 or 881, but I don't have the money. If someone wants to donate one, I'm all for it.
Now don't let me put you off if you really want it, but milling is about the hardest thing you can do with a saw. Best to get the biggest saw you can afford and run with it.
