Husqvarna 162, 2x 266, 268 Frankensaw Project

[briantutt]

Not sure this is a new idea but now that I have a case splitter I realized it can be used to push the bearings off the crank. Just get the bearing splitter behind the bearing and then use the case splitter to push of the bearing splitter. Much faster than screwing around shimming behind the bearing splitter.



Brian

 

[SawTroll]

I did something similar 2 years ago, built a 266 from a box of parts. Be careful choosing your case halves, some of them have different hole locations for the top cover screws. My 266 top cover only has 2 of the 3 screws line up. I think a 268 top cover would have the opposite screw line up, but not sure. I wish I would have known to check for that, but it never occurred to me.

At least a slightly different one, and there are more that are different on the decade+ newer saw (in addition to top end, intake and carb).

Look trough this Spike60/weimedog video: ttp://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bobs-saw-college-and-over-view-of-the-husqvarna-272-class-and-jonsered-670-class-saws.247598/

 

[briantutt]

Are all of the crank bearings the same? Can I just clean them all together and not worry what goes where?

Brian

 

[briantutt]

All the bearings mic within .001 so probably good there. On plus side I ultrasonic cleaned all the cranks and bearings feel nice.

SawTroll there are dates on the cranks that help confirm the build dates.

1979 on the 162!

Brian

 

[Marshy]

Brian, for what it's worth just replace the bearings. They are only good for so many turns before they fail. I'd hate to see a bearing fail shortly after rebuilding one. It's money well spent.

 

[SawTroll]

All the bearings mic within .001 so probably good there. On plus side I ultrasonic cleaned all the cranks and bearings feel nice.

SawTroll there are dates on the cranks that help confirm the build dates.

1979 on the 162!

Brian

Adds up nicely with what the number plates told us, as far as I can see!

On the two oldest saws, the crank dating actually tells more than the number plates told.

 

[briantutt]

Brian, for what it's worth just replace the bearings. They are only good for so many turns before they fail. I'd hate to see a bearing fail shortly after rebuilding one. It's money well spent.

After ultrasonic cleaning I agree. I sprayed wd40 on them and spun. Feel small inconsistency in all of them.

Brian

 

[pioneerguy600]

Not sure this is a new idea but now that I have a case splitter I realized it can be used to push the bearings off the crank. Just get the bearing splitter behind the bearing and then use the case splitter to push of the bearing splitter. Much faster than screwing around shimming behind the bearing splitter.



Brian

Why would you want to , split your bearings....LOL... just pulling yer leg, good combination for pulling the bearings with the bearing separator and case splitter used as a team.

 

[briantutt]

Why would you want to , split your bearings....LOL... just pulling yer leg, good combination for pulling the bearings with the bearing separator and case splitter used as a team.

Haha I guess I should have said bearing puller or separator! [emoji3] thanks for the needle!

Brian

 

[Flat47]

Cases changed when they went to the one piece coil - the holes for the top cover got moved in relation to the starter holes. Makes it tougher to fit a 268/272 muffler into a 266 case without some hammer mods to the muffler so it will clear the case bulge for the top cover screw.

On the 268 case pictured, the holes between the cylinder and carb are for the "black box" style air filter.

 

[briantutt]

Cases changed when they went to the one piece coil - the holes for the top cover got moved in relation to the starter holes. Makes it tougher to fit a 268/272 muffler into a 266 case without some hammer mods to the muffler so it will clear the case bulge for the top cover screw.

On the 268 case pictured, the holes between the cylinder and carb are for the "black box" style air filter.

Interesting, I noticed the coil side differences but if I use the right air filter maybe the roasted 266 clutch side case half would work for the 268. I will clean up the case halves then see what the 268 filter and cover look like on that scenario.

Brian

 

[briantutt]

How do you get the kill switches out of the case? I feel like I am going to break them. It looks like they must just snap in somehow.

Brian

 

[clintb]

How do you get the kill switches out of the case? I feel like I am going to break them. It looks like they must just snap in somehow.

Brian

They have little wings on each side, sometime they will just pop out, if not you'll have to hold them down on the inside.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-ON-OFF...792614?hash=item4170875926:g:TiUAAMXQHU1RsfHj

 

[briantutt]

Thanks, do the wings move? Or do you just push and hope for the best.

Brian

 

[clintb]

Thanks, do the wings move? Or do you just push and hope for the best.

Brian

I was wrong, I've been working on 372's. In one of your pictures it shows it having a screw holding in in.

 

[briantutt]

I was wrong, I've been working on 372's. In one of your pictures it shows it having a screw holding in in.

Correct the 268 has a screw but even with that removed it doesn't move.

Brian

 

[briantutt]

The 162 piston and cylinder actually look almost unused. There is a rough spot that was exposed to the exhaust port that had some sort of white substance that an insect had deposited it there. What is the best way to clean it up? Sandpaper?

Brian

 

[briantutt]

Can anyone answer why the 268 cylinder looks significantly different yet has a piston similar to one of the 266 pistons that doesn't have a cylinder like that? Can you intermix skirt vs no skirt?

Brian

 

[briantutt]

Figured ut the piston confusion. My pictures in the above post are goofed up. The top left piston and the bottom right piston I mixed up. I still have the question about why the 268 cylinder porting looks so much different than the other three yet the 162 and 268 pistons both have no skirt at the bottom of the piston. It is also interesting that the 268 & 162 cylinders sort of tapers to a larger diameter along where the ports are where the 266 cylinders remain constant diameter all the way around full length of the bore. This must have something to do with the piston differences.

 

[briantutt]

At least a slightly different one, and there are more that are different on the decade+ newer saw (in addition to top end, intake and carb).

Look trough this Spike60/weimedog video: ttp://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/bobs-saw-college-and-over-view-of-the-husqvarna-272-class-and-jonsered-670-class-saws.247598/

Thanks for pointing this video out SawTroll! I just watched the whole thing, good thing I did. I am trying to decide what scrambled egg saws to make ou tof these four. I think the 268 I will just rebuild, based on the video it should have more power. Then I think the 162 top end will go on the smoked 266 case. If I have more than one good coild that will make the 162 SE run then I can use the good 266 SE piston and cylinder and get one 266 SE up and runng. On a side note, all three two piece ignitions look quite a bit different but I am sort of assuming they all interchange based on the mounting. I think all 3 have bad wires with insulation missing so I am a bit hopeful that if I replace the wires with new wire I will get two sets or possibly all three sets to work.