Husqvarna 2 cycle oil vs XP oil?

[Emt1581]

Seems like Husqvarna makes 2 different 2 stroke/cycle oils. Regular and then XP. I've got a 550XP which tells me I should use the XP oil. But is there a significant difference in performance between the two? Also, do people usually use the mini bottles or just one quart or gallon bottle?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[mohick]

Oh God another freakin oil thread!!!!!!

 

[hanniedog]

Mini bottles is the ticket.

 

[Emt1581]

Mini bottles is the ticket.

But what's the difference between the normal and the XP Husky oil?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Conquistador3]

As oils are usually different in Europe and the US take this with a pinch of salt, but the main difference between the regular 2T and the premium XP is the latter is both fully synthetic (meaning its wholly composed of PAO's) and OECD 301B compliant, meaning it's over 50% biodegradable.

Honestly I refuse to run Stihl and Husqvarna lubricants because they charge you an arm and leg for the privilege but cannot be bothered to have their oil JASO-graded, something that even cheap supermarket scooter oils have. perhaps it would chew into their profits.

 

[Emt1581]

As oils are usually different in Europe and the US take this with a pinch of salt, but the main difference between the regular 2T and the premium XP is the latter is both fully synthetic (meaning its wholly composed of PAO's) and OECD 301B compliant, meaning it's over 50% biodegradable.

Honestly I refuse to run Stihl and Husqvarna lubricants because they charge you an arm and leg for the privilege but cannot be bothered to have their oil JASO-graded, something that even cheap supermarket scooter oils have. perhaps it would chew into their profits.

Oh ok, so which oil do you use for your saw(s)?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Marshy]

But what's the difference between the normal and the XP Husky oil?

Thanks

-Emt1581

The regular Husky oil in the black bottle is a synthetic blend oil and the silver bottle (XP) is a "better" grade of synthetic blend oil. That is the difference. You will not notice any change in performance between the two. Run which ever you desire but, in general full synthetic oils offer better lubrication properties over the same operating conditions as compared to a semi synthetic and a non-synthetic oil. There are different grades of synthetic base stocks and you end up with different grades of blended oils depending which they use.

I didn't like the smell of the XP oil, kind of smells like burning plastic. The black bottle of semi synthetic didn't bother me one bit. Now that I have a ported saw I use Yamalube 2R synthetic premix oil for dirtbikes. It costs a lot more but I don't run my saws for a living so price isn't an issue. I recall a quart costing $10-15 IIRC.

 

[KenJax Tree]

Not sure about the difference, however XP is a blend (semi synthetic) not full synthetic.

 

[Marshy]

Not sure about the difference, however XP is a blend (semi synthetic) not full synthetic.

Right you are sir. I stand corrected and will edit.

This is the XP description... Sounds like a better grade of oil over the low smoke (black bottle).

"Our best formulation to date is the “ XP® Professional Performance” 2-cycle lubricant. It is a synthetic blend designed for tough, professional usage. * Handles high loads at tough professional usage *Excellent lubricating properties *Lowers engine operating temperature * Less coating on the piston and in crankcase * Extends the engine’s life * Provides longer service intervals * Low to medium smoke emission * Includes fuel stabilizer"

The low smoke description says...

Meets and exceeds the latest oil specifications for JASO-FD and ISO-EGD, and exceeds the current API TC Spec requirements.* Includes fuel stabilizer to reduce the risk of engine failure or poor running characteristics brought on by stale or poor fuel. * Improves lending with a broader range of fuels, including higher octane fuel. * Noticeable reduction in exhaust smoke. * Reduces fuel oxidation and improves lubricity.

 

[KenJax Tree]

No worries

 

[Conquistador3]

Oh ok, so which oil do you use for your saw(s)?

Thanks

The cheapest JASO-FD rated I can find when I am in need of it. Right now I am using Repsol Sintetico 2T: it doesn't smell as good as Castrol or Echo/Shindaiwa branded oil but it was truly dirt cheap.

 

[Emt1581]

Right you are sir. I stand corrected and will edit.

This is the XP description... Sounds like a better grade of oil over the low smoke (black bottle).

"Our best formulation to date is the “ XP® Professional Performance” 2-cycle lubricant. It is a synthetic blend designed for tough, professional usage. * Handles high loads at tough professional usage *Excellent lubricating properties *Lowers engine operating temperature * Less coating on the piston and in crankcase * Extends the engine’s life * Provides longer service intervals * Low to medium smoke emission * Includes fuel stabilizer"

The low smoke description says...

Meets and exceeds the latest oil specifications for JASO-FD and ISO-EGD, and exceeds the current API TC Spec requirements.* Includes fuel stabilizer to reduce the risk of engine failure or poor running characteristics brought on by stale or poor fuel. * Improves lending with a broader range of fuels, including higher octane fuel. * Noticeable reduction in exhaust smoke. * Reduces fuel oxidation and improves lubricity.

So which is going to be healthier for the 550XP?

I'm reading one reply say to stay away from synthetic blends and then this one that Husqvarna seems to be saying the XP formula is their best and it's a synthetic blend.

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Marshy]

So which is going to be healthier for the 550XP?

I'm reading one reply say to stay away from synthetic blends and then this one that Husqvarna seems to be saying the XP formula is their best and it's a synthetic blend.

Thanks

-Emt1581

If you are a home owner then buy the black bottle low smoke oil. Mix it at the recommended ratio and use non-ethanol gas. You will not have any issues. Either oil will work just fine, I'd worry more about using non-E gas than choosing between either of those oils.

 

[Emt1581]

If you are a home owner then buy the black bottle low smoke oil. Mix it at the recommended ratio and use non-ethanol gas. You will not have any issues. Either oil will work just fine, I'd worry more about using non-E gas than choosing between either of those oils.

Sounds good. I found a station selling "racing fuel" and non-ethanol gas about 2 miles from my home. Not sure how much they charge for it though. Any issue using containers that used to hold ethanol'd gas so long as they're empty?

...maybe I'll grab some of the racing fuel and get the jobs done in half the time.

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Marshy]

You don't have to worry about using containers that had ethanol as long as its empty. Don't waste your money on the race fuel it wont make your saw cut any faster. I have 91 non-E available to me so that's what I use.

 

[Emt1581]

Called the place near my house. They have 87 for $3.19 and 91 for $3.69.

I'm not sure how much run time you get out of a tank but I'll buy a galon of the 91 which should hopefully get me through at least 2 cords of wood.

I don't think Lowes or anyone else around here carries the oil in the little bottles. Am I correct in assuming the quarts will have a measure of some sort on them for an accurate 50:1 mixture?

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Marshy]

Called the place near my house. They have 87 for $3.19 and 91 for $3.69.

I'm not sure how much run time you get out of a tank but I'll buy a galon of the 91 which should hopefully get me through at least 2 cords of wood.

I don't think Lowes or anyone else around here carries the oil in the little bottles. Am I correct in assuming the quarts will have a measure of some sort on them for an accurate 50:1 mixture?

Thanks

-Emt1581

If you buy a quart they typically have a graduations on the side but I don't use those. I went to my local Dollar Store or Wal-Mart and bought a Pyrex glass measuring cup that holds about 5oz (if I remember correctly) so its easy to pour to the nearest 1/4 oz. I would have bought a plastic one if I could have found it. I like to make sure I'm putting the right amount of oil in the gas and the quart bottle is hard to tell because they don't have the see through strip to see the level (some brands don't). To figure out how much oil you need per gallon of gas just divide the number 128 (oz in a gal) by the large number in your mix ratio. So if you are using a 50:1 mix its 128/50 = 2.5 or 2.6 oz per gallon. Just don't forget to double it if you pump 2 gallons.
40:1 would be 128/40 = 3.2 oz per gallon.
I buy 2 gallons at a time so it just get use to using 6.5 oz in my 2 gallon can.

If you bought your saw new then its tuned for 50:1 (check the manual). You should stay with 50:1 unless the saw is tuned properly to the different ratio.

 

[Trx250r180]

40:1 would be 128/40 = 3.2 oz per gallon.
I buy 2 gallons at a time so it just get use to using 6.5 oz in my 2 gallon can.

With the no spill cans they come 1.25 and 2.5 gal ,4 oz per 1.25 gallons makes it easy math for 40 to 1 ,and no ratio rite to break out .

Have been running the xp oil ,good stuff ,and it is a pretty blue color .

 

[Emt1581]

Bought a big bottle of the Husky 2 cycle oil and a quart of Husky bar/chain oil last night. Around $13 out the door. But should last me quite a long time. Just have to grab some 91 non-eth. on the way home from work tonight.

Do any other home owners have one of those double tanked gas/bar oil cans? They seem convenient but I'm not sure how much they are needed for non-professionals.

Thanks

-Emt1581

 

[Marshy]

I'm not a pro but it would be nice to have one. Their not cheap, not the ones I looked at. I'm fine with just using the gallon jug.
BTW, the mix oil you bought has a fuel stabilizer in it. You won't need to add anything else to it. I've let my dad sit for 3+ months with 91 non-e in then with Husky oil with no issues. A good practice is to dump the gas out of the tank and let the saw idle until it stalls for long term storage.