husqvarna 2100 recoil problems

[Bluehill logger]

It seems that somehow two of the paws for the recoil located on the flywheel of my husqvarna 2100 have managed break. The pics describe it best. I'm not sure the best way to fix both issues:
1. One of the paws is intact with all parts there but it seems that the stud holding it in just came loose. I'm not sure how this was holding in the flywheel so I'm hesitant to just tap it back in and call it good enough. Is this just meant to be taped into the hole or is there some else. I was thinking some epoxy or something else, but that presents 2 problems 1. it may through off the weight balance of the flywheel or 2 if this paw breaks it would be slightly difficult to remove
2. The second paw is partially broken off but the plug that holds it in is firmly secured to the flywheel. What is the best way to remove this to make the repair?

Any help is greatly appreciated.
thanks

 

[rupedoggy]

If you remove the flywheel those studs can be driven out from the back. The little splines on the studs hold them in the aluminum. I wouldn't be afraid of balance problems with a dab of epoxy. The dirt and dings are more of a problem than a little epoxy. I just put a little red locktite on the splines, before assembly. Just pound them back in.
BTW the fins are hitting the spark plug wire. It won't be long before it will short out. Move the wire. Mike

 

[Bluehill logger]

rupedoggy, thanks alot for the help. It doesn't sound like to big of a deal to get things back together. I'm not too familiar with how the flywheel is secured. Am I going to need a special flywheel puller? or is it just bolted on?

 

[rupedoggy]

Yes you need a special flywheel puller. Take it to the dealer because he can probably fix it for less than you can buy the puller. Mike

 

[Bluehill logger]

Yes you need a special flywheel puller. Take it to the dealer because he can probably fix it for less than you can buy the puller. Mike

thats what I figured. I was just hoping it wasn't the case because local husqvarna dealer support in the area I'm in is slim. I'm not too excited about just taking it to a shop that I've never been to before or heard any recommendations about, but I guess thats what I've got to do.

 

[powelllake]

Bluehill, you can do it yourself without a puller. Have someone hold the flywheel with 2 pair of pliers. He will be lifting the complete powerhead by grabbing 2 fins of the flywheel. Then thread the flywheel nut on to the shaft just part way. Next tap the end of the shaft (the nut) with a hammer until you see the flywheel come loose. Quite often this will work, and you can do it yourself.
Mark

 

[blis]

or you could just wedge it with 2 screwdrivers and then give it gentle tap on axle (with bolt on ofc) and watch the flywheel pop off...

 

[rupedoggy]

If you screw up the flywheel just give me an Email. I have some extra. Mike

 

[Bluehill logger]

well heck. I guess I'm just going to have to give it a try myself this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.

thanks
rodger

 

[Bluehill logger]

well I finally got a chance to pop the flywheel off. I used a steering wheel puller I got from autozone ($14.00) (The flywheel has three threaded holes.) At first managed to put a deep gouge in the ignition by screwing one of the bolts in to far:bang: . but after that is was easy going.
But Now I'm slightly more confused because I see a keyway on the flywheel and a groove on the crank shaft but I never saw a flywheel key pop out? I'm not sure if there should be one in there or if I will need to replace it when I got to reinstall.
Additionally, I think I might be a 298 and not a 2100. I looked on the tag which has 298 written on it.

-rodger

 

[PES+]

Yes there should be a woodruff key

Someone may have changed the timing by taking out the key and clocking.
Is the saw stock?

 

[PES+]

Oh yah

And check the magnets inside the flywheel for the key

 

[Bluehill logger]

I'm not too sure if its stock. I bought the saw used. I guess I'll have to look for the key a little harder.

 

[Bluehill logger]

Someone may have changed the timing by taking out the key and clocking.
Is the saw stock?

I'm guessing this means if the key was removed someone ajusted the timing on the ignition. But I hope thats not the case, cause I have no idea how to readjust it then without setting it back to the stock timing.