Husqvarna 242xp choke it starts then dies repeat

[Brandon owenby]

I just started messing around with chainsaws not long ago and have been able to get most running pretty well but now I have a Husqvarna 242xp that I cannot keep running. I can get it started runs for about 30 seconds then dies and it will do so over and over again. I've tried adjusting the metering lever the h and l adjustment on carburetor and replaced carb kits. I changed the coil (both parts) just cannot figure it if anyone can help please do.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Those 242s are junk. No one likes them. Send it to me for disposal.

 

[Brandon owenby]

Ha ha yeah probably just seems like a high revving little saw and from the specs is alright on hp. If I send it anywhere I'll let eBay pay me a little something for the effort

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Nah, I'm just messing around. Those 242s are pretty sought after. Someone on here would love to keep it off eBay if you lose patience. Unfortunately I'm not the guy to help you, other than suggesting you try running it with the gas cap cracked. Perhaps a faulty tank vent is causing problems. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to help with this one.

 

[Brandon owenby]

Thank you I'll give it a try and see I'm open to try out anything I haven't tried.

 

[Conquistador3]

Have checked fuel lines? Fuel filter? That saw is at very least twenty years old and , unless you have had it all these years, there's no way to tell how it has been kept and what has been replaced over the years.
Also have you set the metering arm using a Walbro gauge? I cannot stress how important those damn gauges are (it's usually sold together with its ZAMA sibling).
Finally have you checked the impulse line is free from soot/dirt/crud and well aligned?

 

[Ryan'smilling]

I was surprised that this thread hasn't gotten more traffic, but then I noticed that it's not in the chainsaw section. You ought to either ask a mod to move it or just start a new thread over there.

 

[Brandon owenby]

Oh man, sorry about that. Thank you

 

[Brandon owenby]

I replaced the metering lever and spring but didn't use a a walbro gauge on it. On the impulse line it's built it comes from the carb then there is a plastic spacer kinda like a intake funneling the impulse from the carb through the neck to the base of the intake port I was kinda worrying if it's the carb being plugged up inside and not allowing the impulse line to properly work.

 

[Brandon owenby]

Ryan I tried cracking the gas cap no luck yet, but as I said I'll give anything a try

 

[Brandon owenby]

I haven't owned this thing for maybe three or four months and just recently started to try get it going I did have to replace the cylinder piston and ring on it and had to get this carburetor off of a used one I'm going to give that walbro gauge a try before I buy another carburetor maybe? If you guys come up with anything else I appreciate it. I'm gonna see about moving the thread but you guys have gave me things I haven't tried yet. Will keep updated

 

[sunfish]

You replace the fuel line?

 

[Brandon owenby]

Yeah replaced fuel line and fuel filter. When I turn it over then pull the plug it's as if I'm flooding it but when I choke it, it runs then dies I can hit the throttle and it'll wind out but the thing always dies. Where the impulse port comes out of the carb could it be somehow clogged up a maybe cause this. Was a used carb

 

[Johnmn]

Sounds to me like it's to lean either not getting enough fuel or sucking air. I would do a carb kit, fuel line, filter, tank vent and gasket set

 

[Conquistador3]

I agree with my esteemed colleagues here: definetely a fuel delivery issue.
Given the symptoms I lean heavily towards the carburetor itself. If you bought it used there's no way to tell if a passage is partially blocked by lacquer (left over by unleaded), if the previous owner tried blowing the carb with compressed air at 100+psi or whatever.
I'd give it a good clean by stripping it, putting it in a pure acetone/carb cleaner bath for at least four hours, blowing it with compressed air under 50psi (those cans of compressed air to clean electronics usually are 40-45psi: perfect for the job) and reassemble, by paying special attention to the metering arm. If you have an ultra-sonic cleaner you can use that as well: just remember those carburetors are 94% zinc with the rest mostly manganese and aluminum, so use a suitable solvent.

 

[sunfish]

I would do a vac/pressure test for air leak, if it passes then a new carb would go on it.

 

[Brandon owenby]

I'm waiting on my walbro gauge hoping it'll be here by tomorrow and hopefully ehwhi gauge that lever it'll take off. In the soak in acetone? What would blowing 100 psi of compressed air have done to the carb? On breaking down the carb isn't that pretty much all that is( I apologise if I don't know the exact naming of the components) in a kit lever the needle valve high low adjustment screw and the throttle and choke levers is there anything more to take apart? I appreciate all the advice my local guy was stumped beyond the kit

 

[Brandon owenby]

IT'S ALIVE!! took the carb all the way down Welch plug too (first time) then reset the meter lever with the gauge put it back together and it ran like a scalded Dogg. I did put a new piston and ring in that also came today. Thanks fellas