Hand file vs grinding

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I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.
 
I'm old and sitting back watching this thread. Do what you do what works. Personally I like to lift the saw to control stalling. That puts me in control. I do not want to push - as the saw digs I can control it much easier by lifting than pushing. I have all appendages and never a kick back - in all these years.

I like how you think.

I like a saw that needs neither lifting or pushing but that idea situation almost never exist.
 
Chain. Fresh it is hell on wheels. 15 minutes later not so much but I continue on. A bit later when I have to push its time to resharpen or change out. Sure I could keep going. But if I take 15 minutes and I touch up the chain or change it out I am way ahead for the afternoon.

And with a sharp chain I am much safer than pushing.

My gosh, do I even have to say this?
 
Grinder can be set for and operator can use light touch, but any bar mounted file guide jig system (such as Granberg or Oregon) that give 100% consistent angle/ depth/ cutter length is as good as bench vs FREE-HAND. Any system is only as good/ bad as the operator. The newer 2N1 that files cutter/ depth at same time seems negate some errors, but still depends on consistent pressure and # of strokes.
I wouldn't say the Granberg offers 100%. If the rail gets dirty and/or isn't greased well, it can alter the stroke. As well, when the bushings wear out, it can also alter the stroke.

The amount and direction(s) of pressure applied can also alter the stroke.
 
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