Husqvarna 254

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Moss Man

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I had bought a 254(1988 vintage) last December and for numerous reasons never really got a chance to try it out. I had questioned the experts here and they all said keep it and that they are a real nice saw. I just started using it this week to trim logs that wouldn't fit on the firewood processor and I have to say I really like it. I especially like the older smaller black handle, it just fits me better than the newer larger gray handles. The power in the cut is very impressive and that is with the almost worn out chain that I sharpened and threw on it. It started a little hard at first, but it had been sitting for some time. With one tank of fresh fuel put through it, it is really starting to wake up nicely. The guy I bought it from is a surveyor and said when his crew ran it they proclaimed it ran like an XP saw. Someone will chime in, but I believe it is the same saw as the 254xp that replaced it?

At any rate, I plan on keeping this one in the stable for a long time! A muffler mod is in store and I'd like to drill the air filter opening little bigger if I get the nerve.

I sold a new 346XP NE and kept this 254, no regrets now.

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The 254 and 257 made a real good chainsaw for pulpwood cutting, they were nimble and light for limbing. They would really rev after some modding and had very good cutting speed for felling and limbing the small softwood used for pulpwood. They lasted really well ,used on a daily basis 1000-1500 hours were quite common.
Pioneerguy600
 
I believe the change from 254 to 254xp was mostly in name - but all saw models develop over time.....

Take a look at the IPLs if you want details.
 
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Here are my 254's. The first is my daily runner, second is just waiting its turn. I owned all of the new saws ( 361,357,359 etc) but went back to the 254. Best saw for pulp/logging work of the lot.
 
Evening, long time listener first time caller,

I am looking at your 254, I have same saw here and am struggling a little. I am trying to get it to stop smoking when cutting, it isn't the mix as far as I can see and I have stripped and cleaned the carburetor and replaced gaskets etc and am still getting a bit of smoke. I know its hard to quantify bit of smoke but I watch other saws running that don't do it at all, this one is getting hot somewhere.

apologies for barging in on your thread but it seemed the ost relevant.
 
'Evening Ed,

Is the saw 'new to you'? Is it a smell of burning, smoke or both?

Check a couple of things for starters....

1. There was a recall on the 254 a good number of years back to do with the exhaust melting the chain brake handle. I've seen a few 254's online that still have the earlier type plastic chain brake/clutch cover and the muffler similar to the one of a 55. Not all saws covered by the recall would have been caught so you should check that for starters. Any sign of heat damage or melting on the brake flag and you could be in trouble. Photographs are better than words so maybe post some pictures of yours

2. There's supposed to be a rubber bush that sits in the front right hole on the top of the cylinder to support the top cover. Check to make sure it's still there. If not, you could find the underside of the top cover is sitting low and too close to the top of the muffler. Inspect the underside carefully to make sure it's not melting.

3. Inspect the chainbrake assembly and make sure it's working properly and that the brake band is not dragging on the clutch cup. You could always pull the clutch assembly and check the crank for signs of overheating if it seems like the clutch/brake have been dragging.

4. Check your chain gauge and make sure it's not something like an .058 fitted on a .050 guide bar. Sounds simple but won't be the first or the last time it proves to be the case for someone.

5. Compression test and check your sparkplug for fouling, muffler for oil. If you find low compression (below about 135-140PSI I think on the 254) and a fouled plug, look at the muffler for signs it's gumming up with unburnt fuel/oil mix. Don't just clean it if that looks to be the case, put up more info and others will come in with some more advice.

Just a few things to get you started. Sorry if it sounds obvious but it's a starting point with the limited information you've provided.

EDIT: 6. Check the tune and make sure you're not running lean and hot, especially if you've had it apart to do the carb kit and seals. Might be a good idea to do the compression test and pull your muffler to check how things look before going further.
 
The smoking could be from bar oil leaking into the cylinder, due to a faulty case gasket or loose case bolts - but it also could be caused by too much or the wrong kind of oil in the fuel mix. By all means use synthetic mix oil, that is meant for air cooled two-strokes.
 
thank you for all the advice I will have a tinker and post any more information garnered from your leads, ran out of time tonight. I think I had a problem with the brake when it went to the shop once before but I won't remember what it was until I get it in front of me. Very helpful Thanks.
 
If you have searched the site for 254 information, you have seen all the recommendations but I want to confirm that opening up the muffler and the neck of the air filter, and readjusting the carb are very simple changes that make a big difference in performance, and some say they add to the life of the saw too. Which carburetor is on your saw? Don
 
The biggest difference I see between the 254 and the 254xp is the thicker recoil for the turbo air induction. I like the small handlebar and the overall smaller size of the 154s and 254s over the xp. But I'd bet the xp's filter goes longer between cleanings.
 
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