husqvarna 257 rebuild or replace

[jpsp]

Or it is something dead simple like a carbonised spark arrestor screen?

nope, that was one of my first checks

 

[Wood Doctor]

Only trouble I have with my 257 these days is that it clogs up the oiler hole in the bar. Then it runs hot. Could ne the wood I am cutting, but that hole in the bar gets packed so tight that I have to use a small screwdriver to clear it and then blow it out. The saw's bar oil pump is working because it always goes down half way or more with a tank of fuel. Any suggestions?

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Only trouble I have with my 257 these days is that it clogs up the oiler hole in the bar. Then it runs hot. Could ne the wood I am cutting, but that hole in the bar gets packed so tight that I have to use a small screwdriver to clear it and then blow it out. The saw's bar oil pump is working because it always goes down half way or more with a tank of fuel. Any suggestions?

Could be the wood...Chain good and sharp, throwing big chips? Is everything pretty clean at bar plate/oil galley?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Only trouble I have with my 257 these days is that it clogs up the oiler hole in the bar. Then it runs hot. Could ne the wood I am cutting, but that hole in the bar gets packed so tight that I have to use a small screwdriver to clear it and then blow it out. The saw's bar oil pump is working because it always goes down half way or more with a tank of fuel. Any suggestions?

Could be veed out bar rail grooves- groove more a V than a U, open at the top allows crud to enter the groove, accumulate and be mashed in place by the chain drive links.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Thanks for the replies. The bar is almost brand new and so is the chain, Carlton A1. Both are 0.050" gauge. Bar grooves look fine. That's why it's surprising. I have a good supply of Oregon 72LGX and some Husqvarna X-Cut. I'll try them both and see if that solves it. If they perform the same way, I'll try another bar. I really do not think it's the bar oiler's fault, but you have to wonder where all the oil is going after the bar's oil hole gets clogged up and how it gets clogged up in the first place.

 

[Stateline Sawer]

Thanks for the replies. The bar is almost brand new and so is the chain, Carlton A1. Both are 0.050" gauge. Bar grooves look fine. That's why it's surprising. I have a good supply of Oregon 72LGX and some Husqvarna X-Cut. I'll try them both and see if that solves it. If they perform the same way, I'll try another bar. I really do not think it's the bar oiler's fault, but you have to wonder where all the oil is going after the bar's oil hole gets clogged up and how it gets clogged up in the first place.

Maybe experiment with a lower vescosity bar oil...

 

[svk]

I’ve only had packing issue with a weak oiler.

I believe those have an adjustable oiler? Open it up a bit more maybe. I usually figure 3/4 oil to 1 tank of fuel is properly oiling.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I’ve only had packing issue with a weak oiler. I believe those have an adjustable oiler? Open it up a bit more maybe. I usually figure 3/4 oil to 1 tank of fuel is properly oiling.

That's exactly the amount I am using -- 3/4 oil per tank of fuel. Assuming the clogging starts after a 1/2 tank of fuel is used, you have to wonder where the rest of the oil is going. The chain is getting hot and the bar's oil hole is packed tight. I'll try to open it up a tad, but I fear that then the oil will be used up before the saw runs out of fuel.

Usually I've run into high viscosity problems only when I'm cutting at 10 F or so. It hasn't been that cold here lately. And, BTW, the Stihl, Echo, and Makita saws are not giving me any problems with the same bar oil, but I do not want to start a brand war discussion. My Husky 353 is operating perfectly, as usual.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That's exactly the amount I am using -- 3/4 oil per tank of fuel. Assuming the clogging starts after a 1/2 tank of fuel is used, you have to wonder where the rest of the oil is going. The chain is getting hot and the bar's oil hole is packed tight. I'll try to open it up a tad, but I fear that then the oil will be used up before the saw runs out of fuel.

Usually I've run into high viscosity problems only when I'm cutting at 10 F or so. It hasn't been that cold here lately. And, BTW, the Stihl, Echo, and Makita saws are not giving me any problems with the same bar oil, but I do not want to start a brand war discussion. My Husky 353 is operating perfectly, as usual.

Or option 3- the newish bar oiler hole does not line up with the delivery slot?

 

[svk]

Is that issue just with one bar and/or chain or any bar/chain?

 

[Wood Doctor]

Or option 3- the newish bar oiler hole does not line up with the delivery slot?

I checked that. The oiler hole on the bar lines up perfectly with the saw's oiler slot.
SVK asked, "Is that issue just with one bar and/or chain or any bar/chain?" That is what I intend to check next, first with a new chain made by another MFG. If that does not work, I'll change bars. The idea is to zero in on two potential causes. I believe the 257 is doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

 

[DSS]

Fix it. Whichever way you decide. I'm sure this will cause an argument, and don't care, but you cannot buy a saw from Husqvarna now that will approach the reliability or longevity of that saw. The 2 series huskies were some of the best saws ever built

 

[Husky77]

2 series saws are tough as nails! Send it to me, I'll give you a decent price for it.

had my 2 series saws 40 years and been looked after, as good now as when I got them. same with a lot of things the latest model with auto tune or whatever is not always the best. I have 3 266 and will never wear them out. each to their own

 

[jpsp]

Follow up: new ring and a coil and has been running good as new ever since.

 

[Redgap]

Follow up: new ring and a coil and has been running good as new ever since.

Good news…gonna try a new ring in my weak 257 too, since no scoring.

 

[jpsp]

Good news…gonna try a new ring in my weak 257 too, since no scoring.

I think the main problem was the coil- would fail when it got hot.

 

[Redgap]

I think the main problem was the coil- would fail when it got hot.

Worked for you, but bad coil won’t cause my low compression

 

[jpsp]

Worked for you, but bad coil won’t cause my low compression

my compression tester was junk- sent me in wrong direction

 

[Redgap]

my compression tester was junk- sent me in wrong direction

Well at least the new ring didn’t cost much

 

[Huskybill]

A bad coil can have a broken wire in the winding. Age and vibration can do it. It touches till it heats up then a gap separates and stalls.

The only two problems I ever had was the spark arrestor in my 240sg, fuel filter in my 266 se.