Husqvarna 266 worth it?

[belgian]

It depends what that saw was used for, if it was just a homeowners firewood saw then it might be ok. At least pull the muffler and look at the piston, if you can get a compression gauge take a com reading, 140 lbs and over, good to go. If it runs good and has good compression it would be a fairly good deal.
Pioneerguy600

+1 ! Most important thing is to check compression. Most of the Husky saws from that era I encounter need almost a new ring or piston because of lack of decent compression. If the comp is good, you'll have a good firewood saw for 1/3 of the new price !

 

[Cliff R]

I've been really well blessed when it comes to the older Husqvarna's in my line-up.

My 480CD was purchaced new in 1980, and still runs flawlessly. Never been carb kitted, or even a fuel line put in it.

I got my 268XP for $150 about 10 years ago, and it was well used, but nice shape. Last year it got new rubber mounts, fuel line, tank vent, crank seals, carb kit, intake gaskets and it's back in service and good as new.

Recently grabbed up a "shot in the dark" 181 on Ebay on a "Buy it Now". 180 plus psi compression and it runs flawlessly everyplace, photo attached.

It's really tough to go wrong with some of these older saws, but there are still going to be some out there that are on their way out as far as P/C wear and possible bearing problems, etc. If you stick to well build models, the odds are certainly in your favor that it will be a good saw and not need much more than some seals, rubber mounts, carb kit, and a few gaskets......Cliff

PS: I do agree that the 266 is not well suited to a 24" bar, much better with an 18 or at most 20".

 

[Total]

Thank you for all the great info guys!! I decided to buy it, for a bit less than what it was listed for. It seems to run great, everything looked like it was in good condition. I'll probably clean it up, get a carb kit, and replace some of the rubber that Saw Dr. was talking about, also the chain brake as well.

Although I don't have a comp gauge, and don't have a lot of experience, the compression seemed to feel good. But I definitely will want to check it soon, before I really put it to work. I figured since I got it for a little less, I wouldn't mind getting a new ring if it needs it.

All in all I am pleased.


I'm also very happy I found this site, just packed full of good help!

 

[pgg]

Back in the day down here, 266's and their like were the standard forest service issue bush saw. Pretty much indestructible they were, plenty of grunt, the 18-20" bar the good size on them, only fault they sucked water in to the carb on wet days, but hey, you were payed by the hour so it didn't matter much, all you did was flush the carb and tank out with petrol and away they'd go again, the 24" bars are better on the gruntier 181's and 281's

 

[Total]

This may be a silly question, but can a chainsaw run without a piston ring?

 

[pioneerguy600]

This may be a silly question, but can a chainsaw run without a piston ring?

I doubt it, never seen a piston alone make over 100 lbs comp. Your saw could have one or two piston rings. If you take your muffler off you should be able to see the rings and the condition of the piston/rings.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Total]

I doubt it, never seen a piston alone make over 100 lbs comp. Your saw could have one or two piston rings. If you take your muffler off you should be able to see the rings and the condition of the piston/rings.
Pioneerguy600

I just got done looking at the piston, it looks awesome, not a scratch/mark on it that i can see. And when the piston goes down, the part of the cylinder wall I could see also looked great. but for some reason to me it looks like the piston ring isn't there. I can't take pictures till pretty late tonight, like midnight or later, so I will definitely have some pictures up by morning.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I just got done looking at the piston, it looks awesome, not a scratch/mark on it that i can see. And when the piston goes down, the part of the cylinder wall I could see also looked great. but for some reason to me it looks like the piston ring isn't there. I can't take pictures till pretty late tonight, like midnight or later, so I will definitely have some pictures up by morning.

If there was no ring or rings on the piston then there would be deep grooves where the rings fit, those grooves are called," lands". The piston rings should move a little in and out of these lands to make a tight seal in the cylinder as a piston is a couple of thousands smaller than the bore of the cylinder. This allows the piston to expand as the engine heats up but not get too tight as that would cause seizure.
Pioneerguy600

 

[Total]

Well as I was taking pictures I realized there is a piston ring, I guess I was just looking at it with bad light yesterday.

But I also noticed some odd things today. The number plate says 266 SE, the plastic top cover has an XP sticker, and the fly wheel has 114 SE. So I was wondering, do I have a frankenstein saw? Just put together with parts from others?

 

[Saw Dr.]

I suspect that is an SE saw with an xp top cover. The number on the flywheel has nothing to do with the saw model, and I am not aware of a Husky model 114.

I have a couple of XP jugs here. If you can get a clear picture of the side of the cylinder, I'll compare it to the xp ones and see what you have. The only major difference between the two is the top end. Lets hope nobody put an early 61 top end on it.

 

[Cantdog]

I suspect that is an SE saw with an xp top cover. The number on the flywheel has nothing to do with the saw model, and I am not aware of a Husky model 114.

I have a couple of XP jugs here. If you can get a clear picture of the side of the cylinder, I'll compare it to the xp ones and see what you have. The only major difference between the two is the top end. Lets hope nobody put an early 61 top end on it.

Well if they did put a 61 P&C on it I guess it would be an LP (less power) rather than an SE or XP!!!LOL!!!!

But seriously even if that has hapened it doesn't mean it's not a good dependable saw. I have never had an early white top Practica but do have a later 61 I've owned since about 1992 which I got used (still had the original chain on it) and it's been a very dependable personal firewood saw and still is. That said it would still be best if it had the 50MM closed port cyl and windowed piston. There is a whole lot of interchangeability in this family of saws. On another note it's been said about the AV rubbers on these saws could problematic. My advise is to get a fresh set from Bailey's (about $30 as Saw Dr. said) these are firmer than stock and make the saw feel not so squishy when working. This is a great investment and a lot of times you won't even know you've got one or two broken ones until you take it apart. All in all these are great saws and will do just as much work as any new one at a fraction of the investment. Good luck!

 

[Total]

I suspect that is an SE saw with an xp top cover. The number on the flywheel has nothing to do with the saw model, and I am not aware of a Husky model 114.

I have a couple of XP jugs here. If you can get a clear picture of the side of the cylinder, I'll compare it to the xp ones and see what you have. The only major difference between the two is the top end. Lets hope nobody put an early 61 top end on it.

Don't mind all the grime, I'm workin' on that

I'm not sure how to just put the images in the post, so you don't have to open a link?

 

[SawTroll]

I suspect that is an SE saw with an xp top cover. .....

Everyhing points that way, but evidence is absent, like it always is on those saws....

 

[Kebo57]

That is a pretty good old saw. It will cut lots of firewood for your grandkids if they can still buy fuel for it. The weak point on those saws at this age is the rubber bits. Generally when those come around my shop, at least a few of the 6(!) rubber anti-vibe mounts are broken. They are available for about $60 from Husky, or half that at Baileys. Once in a while I need to change a fuel line also. I have seen several with the throttle lock broken, but that is an easy fix. The mufflers can rust out if they are kept where it is humid. The 2-piece ignition system has also been known to fail, but that is not a deal breaker. You can swap to a one-piece coil/flywheel setup and those are easy to find. That chainbrake handle is just assembled improperly. It is easy to get it together like this, and I have bought several saws like that. Sometimes you have to change the spring or the handle if it gets worn from being run with the handle put together wrong. I have a couple of the correct "swede-o-matic" brake assys that I'd swap you if you want the right one on there.
The best part about those is that you can upsize to the 272xp top end if you ever get the urge to do so. You'll need the intake setup and a new topcover (or cut a hole in yours) for the sparkplug to clear.
I would at least go look at that saw. I think you have plenty of info to go on from this thread.

Like

 

[president]

The 266 is better suited to a 20" bar and chain but it is one tough customer. I have seen a lot of these saws used around here for 20 years in the pulpwoods and they take some beating day in and out doing that job. They make an excellent firewood saw also, a little light for hardwoodwood over 24" diameter but in smaller wood they hold up very well. For $200 if the saw still has good comp and is in decent physical shape I would not hesitate to buy it.
Pioneerguy600

T1

 

[president]

The 266 is a great saw. My neighbor used his for 17 years before it acted up in the field on him. He had cut hundreds of cords or wood with it, to burn himself and to make ends meet. He said it just cut out on him and would not restart until it cooled down. He ran out and bought a 359, and gave the 266 to me for watching his dog.

I tuned it, took it to the woods, ran the h&ll out of it and, after a year of using it, I can't find anything wrong with it. I think somebody had just tuned it lean on him and it vapor-locked or something. I tried to give it back to him, but he wouldn't take it. I told him I'd keep it around, and if he ever burned up his 359 (it's an e-tech) I'd just hand it back to him.

The point? These are durable, powerful machines that still keep up with the more modern designs. I actually expect the saw to outlive his new 359. If it's a good one, $200 is a decent price.

you are a good neighbor!

 

[pioneerguy600]

T1

I didn`t mention in that reply that I had built up 5 of these 266`s for my good friend and wood cutting buddy, He loved these saws so much from all his days cutting pulp in New Brunswick that when he moved down here he had sold his last saw to help cover the costs of the move. We became friends, and he longed for a good 266 again. I found him 6 in total and rebuilt 5 of them up to near new condition. We went to work in the woods and put each saw to its paces /test, hard long days cutting hardwood through the winters, his saws were still in great shape when he became too weak to run them anymore, I sold the last one I was holding for him to a fellow member on this site. The 2 series saws were just tuff simple to work on dependable saws ,great for production cutting under extreme running conditions is an everyday occurrence for them, mishaps happen quite often getting crushed, run over with heavy machines,trees falling and bouncing sometimes a bit to one side or the other but his saws never took a hard hit, they are all still running to this day.

 

[Agrarian]

Reviving a 2010 thread???

 

[Husky77]

It's an old thread but great saws, here in uk parts are easy to get and if looked after they will last and do a lot of work for you. I have a few and love these saws, 266xpg over a 560xpg any day.