Here is an update: I finally decided to remove the cylinder and see what was going on. The first screw semed much looser that i thought it should. Second offered no resistance at all and that was because the screw was gone. I took advantage of having the cylinder off and put a SS clamp around the intake boot and am waiting to hear from a local small engine shop if he might have a bolt, otherwise I have to order it online and wait, or drive 50+ miles RT, neither of which I care to do. There is a auto parts store closer that might have something, maybe even a hardware store that has some metric stuff. I'm cautiously optimistic that it will fire right up and run well as soon as I put it back together.
Husqvarna 350 carb adjustment
- Thread starter larrypac
- Start date
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Update #2. It's back up and running well, just need to fine tune the carb. When I looked for the cylinder screw online, one site said it was discontinued and replaced by another screw. When i clicked on that link, it showed the screw holding the ignition module on. Luckily, I had not taken that off of my parts saw yet. I have a torque wrench but no bit to use in that location so I just used a 3/16" T wrench until it twisted. Felt like enough torque. Should I re torque the cylinder bolts after some period of time?
Can someone tell me a good place to start the carb adjustment on my Husky 350? I removed the limiters. Low screw was about 4 turns out. Must have been that way from the factory BC I have owned it since new. I screwed it in 2 turns and idle finally went up, and I backed it off 1/8 turn. Idling well anyway. High seems a bit rich to my untrained ear but if there is a recommended starting point, i'd like to start there.
dave ensign
Trapshooter
I would start both at 1 1/2 .
Larry,
When looking at the saw, the L jet is closest to the cylinder. With new diaphragms, adjust the L jet for highest idle speed (rpm) + 1/8 for good transition. Because a two stroke chainsaw has no accelerator pump, the carb needs to be set slightly rich on the low side for a good transition. You may need a little more or less depending on where the needle inlet lever is set. Once you have the L working properly, open the H jet for a good four stroke, no load, at top speed. As soon as you apply a load to the engine by making a cut, the four stroke should disappear. This four stroke tells you that the engine is getting enough fuel at top speed.
Think about piston speed. When the engine has no load, the fuel in the cylinder does not fully burn which causes the miss sound of the engine at high speed. As you apply the load, the piston speed slows way down, completely burning the fuel in the cylinder. Wash out your air filter and clean the muffler screen. Make your final idle speed setting at the set screw on top of the carb. Sharpen the chain and on your way.
When looking at the saw, the L jet is closest to the cylinder. With new diaphragms, adjust the L jet for highest idle speed (rpm) + 1/8 for good transition. Because a two stroke chainsaw has no accelerator pump, the carb needs to be set slightly rich on the low side for a good transition. You may need a little more or less depending on where the needle inlet lever is set. Once you have the L working properly, open the H jet for a good four stroke, no load, at top speed. As soon as you apply a load to the engine by making a cut, the four stroke should disappear. This four stroke tells you that the engine is getting enough fuel at top speed.
Think about piston speed. When the engine has no load, the fuel in the cylinder does not fully burn which causes the miss sound of the engine at high speed. As you apply the load, the piston speed slows way down, completely burning the fuel in the cylinder. Wash out your air filter and clean the muffler screen. Make your final idle speed setting at the set screw on top of the carb. Sharpen the chain and on your way.
Hummmmm
Hummmmm number 2.
Kash
Kash
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