Husqvarna 350 ignition issue

[Chevboy0167]

I use popsicle sticks. You can buy them at a bout anywhere. Can even cut them at an angle with side-cutters and use as a scraper. You don't wanna damage or chunk out any of the plastic on the crankcase or alum. riser. Takes time but worth it.

 

[gunns]

Those are the dates of the IPL's. When enough parts change or are updated, the manufacturer releases a new Parts List.

Thanks HumBurner! So… 2004-3 would be the third revision in 2004?

I purchased mine new in 2007. So it falls after 2006-6 and the next change was 2007-1. So I’m not sure which one to go by. Any suggestions?

 

[gunns]

I use popsicle sticks. You can buy them at a bout anywhere. Can even cut them at an angle with side-cutters and use as a scraper. You don't wanna damage or chunk out any of the plastic on the crankcase or alum. riser. Takes time but worth it.

Thanks! I have a stack of them. Being a wood worker I have a lot of exotic hardwoods I could put a chisel point on that wouldn’t Gaul out the chassis. Also have a flat bed sander that I can take the belt off and lay some 400-600 grit on it to true up the riser.

 

[HumBurner]

Thanks HumBurner! So… 2004-3 would be the third revision in 2004?

I purchased mine new in 2007. So it falls after 2006-6 and the next change was 2007-1. So I’m not sure which one to go by. Any suggestions?

I'm not sure the revision/update number in that series of saw.

You have the right idea in your second paragraph.

That's a pretty close line, and Husky is notorious (stihl too) for lots of crossover. Presumably, you would want to go by the 2007 IPL, but you may find your unit has parts [also] from the 2006-6 IPL.

 

[gunns]

Thanks HumBurner! I was never sure what it all meant

Chevboy0167 I tried your popsicle stick idea and it worked quickly to remove all the sealant. GREAT idea MacGyver!

 

[J D]

Thanks HumBurner! So… 2004-3 would be the third revision in 2004?

I purchased mine new in 2007. So it falls after 2006-6 and the next change was 2007-1. So I’m not sure which one to go by. Any suggestions?

I wouldn't get too hung up on the variations. As far as I'm aware the only significant change that has been made to your saw is the metal clamp on the intake boot & you should be upgrading your saw to that anyway. A lot of times a part number is only revised due to a new supplier, or an updated mold or manufacturing process... the part is essentially the same. Half the time what you get when you order something "older" is an available part with a part number that supersedes your original anyway, & they're all interchangeable

 

[gunns]

Thanks JD

I now have all the parts for a complete rebuild, bottom end and top. I start today. Can’t wait to get it running. I’ve got Alder firewood logs to cut up.

 

[gunns]

Permatex Mototseal for the sealant. Use it to seal the aluminum riser to the plastic lower crankcase. That riser has to go a certain way so the cylinder sits correctly! Do a dry test fit first, then add the Motoseal to the riser and around the outside of the rubber crank seals. Thin finger wipe layer is best.

After crank and riser is all bolted up, leave out the base gasket, put piston on rod without the ring! Slide the cylinder over piston, install 2 cylinder bolts opposite of each other and tighten down. Watch a few YouTube videos on how to check squish as it is too much to type out


Once you find the squish you like, then pull the cylinder off and install the piston ring

Squish at .020", (thousands of an inch), or more, you leave out the base gasket and coat the riser with a film of Mototseal. Anything less than .020", then use the base gasket. When using a gasket, you really don't have to use sealant, but can if you like. Both sides won't hurt. Just make it a thin layer.

Well I did the squish check and came up with .40” without the gasket in place. So I understand that I leave the gasket out and seal the the cylinder/head to the riser with Permatex Motoseal NOT Loctite 518.

 

[Chevboy0167]

You mean .040", yes? If so, then yes leave out the base gasket and use just the Motoseal. It would a wise choice to use blue thread locker on the cylinder base bolts also. They can loosen up over time.

 

[gunns]

Yup .040”. .40” would be almost 1/2”. I need to pay more attention to my typing - ya think? Thanks for your help and I’d planned on using blue Loctite on the head screws. I have lots of it. Having a V-twin you learn to appreciate it! Are there any torque specs for for the chassis/riser screws and cylinder/riser screws or does it just need to be gute-n-tight?

 

[Chevboy0167]

I'm sure there are specs but good-n-tite has never let me down on saws. Go too far and you will strip things out!

 

[J D]

Yep, tighten em up evenly a bit at a time. I find using a T driver & doing them up as firmly as I can without really leaning on it "like there's no tomorrow" works well

 

[gunns]

Thanks guys! That’s what I’ve seen in all the you-boob videos. Never heard any of them mention torque specs. Guess I’ve committed a common goof. I tightened down the chassis to riser screws and forgot to include the grounding strap. LOL! Luckily I didn’t get any further before realizing the mistake.

 

[Chevboy0167]

^^^^^ No worries as long as ya catch it in time. And yes, I have been guilty of forgetting it also...... twice!

 

[gunns]

^^^^^ No worries as long as ya catch it in time. And yes, I have been guilty of forgetting it also...... twice!

Ok, now I don’t feel so bad. BUT stupid me I was following the shop manual page 49 on reassembly. They have a list to follow in order. It wasn’t until I got to installing the carb instal that the air turned BLUE! #*^•<>€£!!!!!!! I didn’t install the intake bellows before installing the cylinder and what’s worse I knew better! I was so intent on following instructions which even my wife of 51years has given up on trying to get me to do. LOL! Life’s just a box of chocolate ya never know…. Thanks Gump! So now I pull the cylinder.

 

[gunns]

It’s up and running great except it looks like the chain is not getting enough oil. I took the bar off and made sure the chain slot was clean and also the inlet holes in the bar all was clean. The adj screw was full counter clockwise and still little oil. And no I did put the spiral gear on the crank shaft that drives the pump. Guess I need to pull the pump and check it. But otherwise it runs fine. Carb settings were left at one turn each as recommended by Husqvarna for 3-4 hr breaking. Also kept the RPMs down as well and varied the rpm’s.

 

[J D]

Flush the oil tank out & check the oil pick up for a blocked (or missing) screen.
Don't "keep the revs down" by part throttling it. Not over reving during break in is more about not free reving it or letting it over rev out of the cut etc. You want to "exercise" it by varying the load on it which will in turn vary your revs while still maintaining WOT

 

[gunns]

Jd,
Just now got a chance to check this site. Been real busy. I’ll do as you suggested with the oil pump issue. Makes sense. Do the oil pumps normally hold up fairly well! I pretty much did what you described concerning the RPMs. Thanks for your suggestion!!!

 

[J D]

Do the oil pumps normally hold up fairly well

In my experience they tend to either plug up with fines somewhere between the pickup & the pump, or the worm drive gear gets damaged.
Something to note, the pumps on the 34x/35x husky's are interchangeable BUT you need to match the worm drive to the pump & the clutch drum to the worm drive