Husqvarna 350

[huskihl]

Heat from the muffler can burn/melt the brake pivot point in the case. Possible that it doesn’t line up like it should.

 

[Wood Doctor]

The 350 has the stupidest designed chainbrake in history, what you have done is taken the sidecover off the saw with the brake locked, I can't remember how I got mine unlocked but it takes some doing & jiggling, but it can be done.

Agreed. Fastening that side cover on with the brake engaged is a virtual impossiblilty. Note that the service manual does not discuss any remedy.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Agreed. Fastening that side cover on with the brake engaged is a virtual impossiblilty. Note that the service manual does not discuss any remedy.

Manual may not- but Husqvarna and Jonsered were well aware of the problem when that style was first introduced.
Easiest way to have an off day in the forest, was to drop the side cover on the ground and the brake would engage- with no way of disengaging it to enable fitting it back on.
Over here, at point of sale, the agents would instruct you how to detach the flag, reset the brake and then reassemble the saw. Pain in the butt, but doable.
You can work the 3 point star in the cover with a stout pair of fine nosed pliers, or fine jawed locking pliers to manipulate the brake knee to the correct position- but only if you have them with you when it happened.
Should be an easy enough fix in the workshop though.

 

[huskihl]

Manual may not- but Husqvarna and Jonsered were well aware of the problem when that style was first introduced.
Easiest way to have an off day in the forest, was to drop the side cover on the ground and the brake would engage- with no way of disengaging it to enable fitting it back on.
Over here, at point of sale, the agents would instruct you how to detach the flag, reset the brake and then reassemble the saw. Pain in the butt, but doable.
You can work the 3 point star in the cover with a stout pair of fine nosed pliers, or fine jawed locking pliers to manipulate the brake knee to the correct position- but only if you have them with you when it happened.
Should be an easy enough fix in the workshop though.

Not sure if it’s the OP’s issue or not, but if you push the upper right corner of the clutch cover in far enough to hit the brake handle pin, pulling the handle back will release the brake. Takes 10 seconds

 

[J D]

I will now replace, what I would describe, as the inner cheek plate. The seal presses up against the inner side of this and it may be distorted/not flat (although I thought it looked OK) so the seal may be leaking oil befor it gets into the cutter bar channel.

I've had that be the case, not sure if the rubber had shrunk or plate was deformed but I tweeked things & got it sealing again

 

[Skippydiesel]

HEEEEEELP!!!

Just found the reason for all the bar /chain oil leaking. Purchased a new inner cheek plate - strange it didn't sit flat on the plastic. Suddenly realised the oil tank has been very badly deformed, by overtightening the cutter bar nuts/bolts. So tight old cheek plate had deformed with plastic. No repair possible!

Oil tank, part of crank case molding.

Googled OM part number 537172003 - DISCONTINUED !!!!!!

Can get aftermarket part from China but anxious about doing so.

ADVICE please

 

[Clyde85]

You could also use a 2140,2145, or 2150 jonesered crank case. Same platform just red.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

HEEEEEELP!!!

Just found the reason for all the bar /chain oil leaking. Purchased a new inner cheek plate - strange it didn't sit flat on the plastic. Suddenly realised the oil tank has been very badly deformed, by overtightening the cutter bar nuts/bolts. So tight old cheek plate had deformed with plastic. No repair possible!

Oil tank, part of crank case molding.

Googled OM part number 537172003 - DISCONTINUED !!!!!!

Can get aftermarket part from China but anxious about doing so.

ADVICE please

Keep an eye out on Gumtree and or Aussie Fleabay for Halfsquashedbanana 340-345-350 with a roasted topend- or one of the Jonsereds, but I bet Orange ones are going to be easier to find.
Failing that you might be able to knock the studs back in to the tank and sand the bar mounting face flat, reinstall the studs? No a perfect fix, but it might work?

EDIT: Just watch though, many a 350 or saws of that family have shaken the muffler loose and burned a hole through the oil tank- you don't want one like that!

 

[Skippydiesel]

Thanks for all the suggestions:

Damage too far gone to "dress" down.

Might be a very long wait, to find a donor saw on Gumtree/eBay - will put out a wanted advert.

Does anyone have any experience with Husqvarna crank case from China ($60 -75 Australian dollars. so cheaper in USA)

 

[J D]

If you don't find anything in the next few weeks let me know... I've got half a dozen in various states of disrepair & by the time I've fixed those I'm going to there may be a case or 2 left over - you'd just need to cover P&P from NZ

 

[Skippydiesel]

If you don't find anything in the next few weeks let me know... I've got half a dozen in various states of disrepair & by the time I've fixed those I'm going to there may be a case or 2 left over - you'd just need to cover P&P from NZ

Thanks JD - may very well take you up on your offer.

 

[HumBurner]

Not sure if it’s the OP’s issue or not, but if you push the upper right corner of the clutch cover in far enough to hit the brake handle pin, pulling the handle back will release the brake. Takes 10 seconds

Pretty sure this is what I had to do as well, many years back. It won't line up completely, but enough to nudge the lever free.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Update! - Found a preloved replacement "chassis" from a local chain saw shop (had to look through a few carcass, as as some had similar damage to mine). Did the rebuild yesterday. All went well, except for the two little rubber support posts for the carburettor (both broke ) ordered new ones this morning. Will wait for new posts befor test start but expect saw to run like a new one, without leaking chain oil.

My thanks to JD for his excellent council.

 

[J D]

Glad that worked out, with stuff like that local is always best if you can find it.
Don't feel bad, unless they're new those mounts are almost impossible to get out in one piece.
What did you use in the way of sealant putting it all together? If you haven't, I'd strongly recommend vac/pressure testing it (especially if you re-used your original bearings/seals) as they can be a PITA to get to seal

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Was running my own 350 this morning- it has a GB bar on it at the moment, so it has an Aussie connection.
With a good sharp chain, cutting limbs of 2 to 8 inches diameter- those 350's are snotty wee saws.

 

[Skippydiesel]

Glad that worked out, with stuff like that local is always best if you can find it.
Don't feel bad, unless they're new those mounts are almost impossible to get out in one piece.
What did you use in the way of sealant putting it all together? If you haven't, I'd strongly recommend vac/pressure testing it (especially if you re-used your original bearings/seals) as they can be a PITA to get to seal

I used "ThreeBond 1215 Liquid Gasket" - I use it on all 2/crank case builds. Seems to do the job.

Put the goo on all mating surfaces, including crankshaft bearing/seals - I will find out if it has done the job in day or two, when my rubber carb aunts come in and I start the saw.