You may want to take a very good look at the cylinder,. Are the transfers capped with an aluminum cover and screws? If so plan on researching further online to see if the cylinder could be a 346XP conversion. This was a very popular upgrade and involved grinding some plastic away. Some people will shave a little and test fit, then rinse and repeat. Others just go to town and whack out a huge chunk and roll with it.
I'd tape it up with foil, it should work fine.
Despite lots of opinions, these are very decent saws if you do this:
-Inspect the 4 screws on the bottom side of the saw that holds the engine together. If fine thread these are good, apply some blue loctite or 1184 one at a time and re-tighten. You are now done for good. If you discover course thread, then clean each hole with carb cleaner and apply only red high strength loctite and retighten. Except this time keep a mental note to check for tightness every so often. They tend to loosen over time.
-If you have a (closed) molded transfer cylinder, simply recheck / re-tighten your muffler bolts every now and then. It is usually not a problem with this cylinder. If you have aluminum capped transfers, and discover you have the original 350 cylinder, this is the one that loosens muffler bolts constantly, and you will need to buy a 346xp muffler brace and mod the one ear + plus use red loctite.
I honestly struggle looking at photos of capped transfers on 350 and 346XP cylinders. I dont really know how to tell other than casting marks. Based on research I did on mine is that if you have the original 350 capped transfers, that is the worst cylinder for harmonics and will always loosen muffler bolts unless a brace is added. All other cylinders like mahle and 346xp will not do this.
