Husqvarna 357xp -low compression on new cylinder

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Steve Hatfield

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Just picked up this saw listed as a parts saw. Seller said needs carb rebuild and said he just spent $150 on repairs. Ok, must have been some world class repair facility to get a saw back that needs work, lol.
New p/c( unknown brand- horrible, i`m thinking one of the big 3,Parker bros,Mattel or Hasbro), saw ran but it just didn't have the compression that it should. Testing on normal fuel/oil showed 120 psi, and 30wt oil in the cyl it shot up to 170. Cylinder or piston really don't show any scoring. Piston measured 46.7 mm above the ring and cyl was 47.3 at the bottom just for a reference.
Now i want to get this saw right, will be the last saw i probably will ever buy/use as i just dont use saws that often. But i like saws and i've always wanted a Husky pro saw so i snagged this one for $80 knowing it would need work.
Should i go with one of the better name brands p/c like Meteor or go with oem. I plan on doing some very light porting -like gasket matching , blending and polishing the exh port with a muffler mod. I like to tinker , ported a wildthing and really woke it up. Saw will only be used a couple of time a year. Opinions? and should i stay with the 357 cyl or a 359? ThanksIMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0971.JPG IMG_0972.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0971.JPG IMG_0972.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0971.JPG IMG_0972.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0975.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0971.JPG IMG_0972.JPG IMG_0972.JPG IMG_0971.JPG IMG_0976.JPG IMG_0978.JPG IMG_0975.JPG
 
Walmart brand towels.
Ya, I saw that ad up for a bit so I figured if it was all good someone would have jumped all over it. So I took a chance, I think it’ll make a good saw when it’s done.
 
From the looks of the base gasket and the transfer ports it’s begging and crying to be ported.
 
Opinions? and should i stay with the 357 cyl or a 359?
I'm seeing a 359 cylinder in all the pics. It'll probably be better to go OEM because the meteor kit is almost the same price. If it's going to be ported right then the 359 top end will be better. If you're only going to do a base gasket delete and muffler mod then opt for the 357xp kit.
 
I'm seeing a 359 cylinder in all the pics. It'll probably be better to go OEM because the meteor kit is almost the same price. If it's going to be ported right then the 359 top end will be better. If you're only going to do a base gasket delete and muffler mod then opt for the 357xp kit.
I've had my hands on this saw, it's a low $$ 359 jug, and 47mm is a dead giveaway.
 
Pretty sure that’s one of the AM cylinders someone posted pics about on Oh Pee Eee

Terrible uppers.

At the price OEM Husky kits are available at, I think it’s crazy to go anyway but OEM.

Vac test the saw for sure when done. Anyone that put that jug on for repair likely didn’t know enough to figure out why the original top end failed. If you spring for a new top end, you don’t wanna cook it.
 
Thanks for all the good info. Not sure what equipment is needed on the vac test and what psi it should hold . Guess I’ll do a search.
Not sure on how to pm as I just joined
Probably practice porting on that Chinese, can’t hurt it.
Sounds like I’ll be going oem on the p/c.
 
Like others have said I'd ditch the base gasket and do some porting on that cylinder.

I did that to a horrible AM cylinder that I got for free . It had 80 thou squish with a gasket and ports that looked like they were cut with a hammer and chisel.

The saw thats wearing that cylinder runs very strong and has cut a lot of wood since I slapped it together. If it blew up or ran like crap after porting I would of been nothing but some time. The knowledge I gained from porting that saw was priceless.
 
My only concern about using that cylinder was such a low compression #, I’m no expert and I can see it being a little bit low until seated but to jump 50lbs is telling me that it’s out of round. Maybe I’m wrong but I dong have a bore dial to check it, what’s your thoughts?
 
My only concern about using that cylinder was such a low compression #, I’m no expert and I can see it being a little bit low until seated but to jump 50lbs is telling me that it’s out of round. Maybe I’m wrong but I dong have a bore dial to check it, what’s your thoughts?
Pop a set of Caber rings in it, gasket delete, muffler mod, cut wood. :)
 
I think that’s what I’m going to do grizz. Just get it running and see if I even like the saw.
Couple of questions, Are those aftermarket cylinders just a steel bore? And it has the Walbro 199B carb , rebuild or put on one of the Zama carbs. Thanks
 
Got the saw back together, vacuum and pressure test seemed good ( let it sit for about 8 minutes @ 8 psi and stayed there). New caber ring, rebuilt carb using HDA 24 kit and drilled hole in top cover per Treemonkeys video. Muffler mod and thin base gasket ( squish @.23) compression is only 125-130 before I ran it. After 2 tanks it’s down to 118 with some cylinder scoring. I did practice porting on this cyl as it junk from the get-go. Revs really quick, lol
No biggie,I got a stock oem 357 cylinder from cuinrearview and I bought a meteor piston/caber ring for it.
 
Is it true some of the after market cylinders when porting the chrome plating chips?
My 262xp cylinder I’m porting is oem. I’m thinking of connecting the transfers to the cylinder base area for more smoother flow. I have a choice of porting the piston too. cut a upside down u on the intake side. The skirt blocks the full opening on tdc in the top of the intake port.
 
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