Husqvarna 357xp oil pump leak

[peterng]

A solid drip has developed. Does anyone have any experience with this symptom? Replace the whole assembly or just the gasket that is adjacent to the pump?

In the workshop manual it indicates special tools needed. One to hold the piston and the other to unbolt the clutch. Are these special tools needed or do you have any other methods of getting the clutch off?

Thanks,
Pete

http://cgi.ebay.com/HUSQVARNA-CHAIN...ItemQQimsxZ20100109?IMSfp=TL100109223003r9657

 

[Trigger Man]

You can use stater rope inserted in the spark plug hole(spark plug removed) for a piston stop. For getting the clutch off I have the tool, but it can be taken off without.

 

[peterng]

fella at the local dealer just told me the leak is normal, just dripping off the covers. Winter oil thinner. It's a solid puddle, can't believe they drip that much but he said it is just when you bring them in in the winter. If that's the case maybe I'll just find a nice place over a funnel to set it.
Pete

 

[Trigger Man]

Peter if you look at the clutch you will see an indentation bossed into the clutch right next to were it is marked "OFF", use a flat blade screw driver and give it a good sharp wack with a hammer it should loosen the clutch and spin right off. Do this with the stater rope in the plug hole and the piston compressed up against the starter rope.

edit: you need enough rope in the hole to keep the piston from hitting TDC.

 

[Trigger Man]

Peter they will drip some especially when brought in from the cold. How much are is coming out? lots? My saws always drip a little epecially after use, put some newspaper under it and keep an eye on it see how it is after sitting a couple of days.

 

[peterng]

I see you know what I mean when I say cold eh?

It'll drip a 6" diameter puddle on the enamel bench overnight after using it outside. When I check it out the next morning, the oil flow adjustment screw is soaked, but not the surrounding area so I figured it's gotta be a cracked hose up in there or something.

But buddy at Sweeney's out in Durham Bridge here said he's had 1000's of those tore apart and he's only seen that sort of problem very rarely and only with 15 year old saws. Mine might be 8 yrs old I think. I'd still like to rip it apart and check those tubes. and see if I can break anything else in the process.

So just wad as much of that starter rope in there as you can fit and give er a rap.
Thanks TM,
Pete

 

[Trigger Man]

Yes use a good wad, make sure you leave some hang'in out or its a :censored: pain to get it out.

 

[Trigger Man]

If you get stuck on anything the boys on here will give you hand.

 

[peterng]

That's what makes me think he's right, it would be a 12 inch puddle if it sat for 2 days but it's not, it stops eventually but leaks every time after I run, more so in the winter. I don't run it much in the winter, just got late in the season cutting next winters cordwood. didn't do this in the summer too bad. And my other saw doesn't do this nearly this bad but it's a smaller saw.

Anyhow, sounds like one more thing I'm not going to fix. I feel better now. Thanks,
Pete

 

[Doug H]

My 357xp was leaking a puddle of oil every time it sat for a while. I took out the siphon hose out of the oil tank after removing the clutch, cover plate and oil pump. Then I super cleaned it and the hole it came out of and super glued it back in. Still leaked just the same. Disassembled it again and noticed that oil was continually seeping out the siphon hose opening even when it was pointing straight up, against gravity. I assumed that meant pressure was building up inside the oil tank. So I finally located the oil tank vent just under the bar bolts and just above the chain tension adjuster. I pressed a short piece of fuel line firmly against the vent hole and blew hard. I felt t unplug and heard a gurgling sound from the siphon hose. It had been totally plugged up causing pressure to build up as the saw warmed up inside and forcing oil out. No more oil leak!