Husqvarna 359 questions

[Alex1992]

Hi all,

Looking for a small/mid size saw to keep in the car for camping, firewood and clearing fallen trees in the forest.
I had a 365, however found it too big physically and am looking for a smaller, more compact saw. I have come across a 359 in great condition, not too far from home.
My question is, are these saws a lot smaller overall and more compact? Im not expecting it to be the size of a 130 or 236 obviously, but just hoping to know if they are more compact.
I understand they are a bit lighter also, and still have a reasonable amount of power?

Lastly, how do they compare to the 350 model? I have found one of them too, but am apprehensive that it may be underpowered?

Edited to add, I do have a larger saw for other work (Dolmar) so not looking for anything bigger than the 359.

Thanks

 

[singinwoodwackr]

372xp, 359, 346xp
Personally, I'd carry the ported 346xp with 18" bar...good for 30" wood.

 

[Chevboy0167]

359 is good as long as the intake boot clamp has been upgraded to the metal style. I prefer the 372 type for positive sealing.

350 is "ok" but it has the plastic crankcase with an aluminum riser that can warp, causing an air leak.

372 type

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

359/2159 in my opinion was the best in class of the era- period.
357/XP was basically the same saw with crank stuffers and a wee bit more exacting for the pro user.

Both the 359 and 350 share the same intake tract- as mentioned above- at the vintage they are now, if they still have the plastic clamp replace it with a steel band. The short loop impulse hose is a let down area as well that many miss.

The 365 has all the bulk of a 372- but for a few less CC- the 359 bulk wise sits nicely between the 365 and 350, the 359 is a full magnesium case, bolt down cylinder saw- the 350 is plastic cased clamshell with a cylinder riser.
359 loves 16-20 inch bars and standard 3/8 chain- 350 is happier with .325.
359 is a K095 bar mount, so you cannot use your 365 D009 bars on it.

 

[J D]

The 350 & 357 have both been my go saws at different times.
357/359 is a great platform, nimble, ergonomic, not too big for limbing & still ok for bucking reasonable logs.
350 is refreshingly lighter & I'd be reaching for that first if I was predominantly cutting smaller stuff. The later 350's have the same cylinder as a 353 but are "detuned" with a dished piston so there are easy gains to be made by replacing the piston & doing a basic muffler mod. There are a few more potential issues to be aware of with the 350.
For me it would come down to price & what size wood you are predominately cutting.
If you plan on giving it a hard time then the 359 is a better choice. If you can find a good NE 346XP that would probably be ideal

 

[Alex1992]

Thanks for the input, especially the photos. I ended up grabbing the 359. Anyone know the part number for that intake clamp?

 

[Chevboy0167]

I believe...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Thanks for the input, especially the photos. I ended up grabbing the 359. Anyone know the part number for that intake clamp?

If indeed it is a plastic clamp still- you will have to do some trimming- remove the tabs off off the plastic flange that were meant to- or if not broken still do, hold the flange in place, file or sand remaining stubs flattish and slip a screw band over the lot- refit to cylinder.
As for a part number- use what you can find off another saw- if you clamp both the rubber manifold and plastic flange- I have found the 372 bands to be tight enough fully open to be a bit of a pain to get on and prefer to use Stihl bands off of 066/660 saw wrecks and have happily used aftermarket bands that are cheap as chips.
If you have a reasonable relationship with a saw shop, band off a wreck should be easily found and cheaply purchased.

 

[sean donato]

Thunk the last batch I bought were off a 390xp or 394xp. Like the screw together ones better then the clip together. Been years since I had to buy any though. Like Bob mentions the 660 clamps work fine too. Just got whatever is cheapest at the time.

 

[J D]

Besides the clamp, some of the 357/359's had an auto decomp... if it has one remove it! The walbro carbs can be temperamental & the later zama carbs are preferable.

 

[sean donato]

One of the guys had a good rebuild and mod to make them work video, thought I saved it but can't find it. Did what he said and still running the walbro on mine. See if I can find the video and I'll post it.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

One of the guys had a good rebuild and mod to make them work video, thought I saved it but can't find it. Did what he said and still running the walbro on mine. See if I can find the video and I'll post it.

The drilling to atmosphere video- or something to do with accelerator pump delete?

 

[J D]

Thread 'TreeMonkey Walbo 199 Fix'

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/treemonkey-walbo-199-fix.215171/

Thread 'Walbro HDA199 Repair' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/walbro-hda199-repair.251858/

For me blocking off the port that "compensates" by venting the metering side to the intake & drilling the cover so it vents to atmosphere (like most carbs do) pretty much solved all my carb issues

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Thread 'TreeMonkey Walbo 199 Fix'

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/treemonkey-walbo-199-fix.215171/

Thread 'Walbro HDA199 Repair' https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/walbro-hda199-repair.251858/

For me blocking off the port that "compensates" by venting the metering side to the intake & drilling the cover so it vents to atmosphere (like most carbs do) pretty much solved all my carb issues

Ha, did this on my 359 with the 199 carb

 

[sean donato]

There it is, thanks. For whatever reason I couldn't find it.