Husqvarna 365 problem

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrawleyT

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Jan 1, 2018
Messages
12
Reaction score
2
Location
East Stroudsburg
Hey guys, i have a husqvarna 365, it ran great and then i took it apart and opened the ports a little, i didnt grind anything to screw up the timing though. I reassembled it and started it up and ran great! I used it for about 30-40 minutes and it ran flawlessly and then i shut it off. When i restarted it, everytime i started cutting wood it would bog down and i would have to take my finger off the throttle then start cutting again. This was ongoing and still hasnt stopped. It idles just fine, but even without a load it will still do it. Carb was cleaned prior to reassembly after the porting. Its just got me confused because it was running like a raped ape till i shut it off! Thanks for reading


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Compression? It's been said that they run the best right before they burn up. Have you pulled the muffler and looked at the piston since it started acting up? I burned up my first port job in the first tank because I tuned it lean.
 
Will it restart and run normal when it’s cooled down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, i let it cool for about an hour(its like 5 degrees here in Pennsylvania rn so it cools quickly) and still same problem


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Compression? It's been said that they run the best right before they burn up. Have you pulled the muffler and looked at the piston since it started acting up? I burned up my first port job in the first tank because I tuned it lean.

Its got good compression with what i can tell without a compression tester, but i didnt even mess with the carburetor at all after porting it. I took videos of me removing the high and low jets so I remember exactly how to put them back in


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would go over the vitals....Compression, spark and fuel. Will it pop off with a drop or 2 of fuel through the carb(or use a small shot of ether). If you don't have a compression tester, do a drop test. hold the pull rope handle and let go of the saw, does the saw drop slow? Its not accurate but will be close enough. Double check if you have a decomp valve, not positive at the moment if your model does? I know my 365 special does. Make sure its closed(pulled out) Did you install a new base gasket when you pulled the cylinder to do the port work? Sorry for all the questions...Just wanting to help you figure it out.
 
Pull the muffler and take a look at the piston if you haven't already.
 
I dont know what you mean with the drops of fuel and ether because it starts fine and idles fine. It has a brand new decomp valve in, it has alot of compression but i havent done the drop test yet. No i didnt put a new gasket on, i used liquid gasket to give a lil higher compression ratio then the thicker oem gasket. That very well may be the problem, but i dont know how it ran fine for 45 minutes until i shut it off


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I believe most will be interested in knowing what shape your piston and ring are. It's been my past experience that a saw that suddenly falls flat on its face, when revved or when a load is put on it, has a bad ring or melted piston.
Just how well did you clean up the cylinder after working on it? After seeing the inside of mufflers that were ground on,"cleaned real well".installed, ran and then the scratched up pistons and rings afterwards I could see how a little metal left behind could cause a delayed failure. Hopefully it's not any of that and is a simple fix
 
I believe most will be interested in knowing what shape your piston and ring are. It's been my past experience that a saw that suddenly falls flat on its face, when revved or when a load is put on it, has a bad ring or melted piston.
Just how well did you clean up the cylinder after working on it? After seeing the inside of mufflers that were ground on,"cleaned real well".installed, ran and then the scratched up pistons and rings afterwards I could see how a little metal left behind could cause a delayed failure. Hopefully it's not any of that and is a simple fix

I cleaned up really well, i didnt port it by grinding away some intake and exhaust, ill post the link of what i did to it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
WooHoo has a good point, Plus I was thinking that wouldn't you need to make some adjustment to the fuel mixture screws to add more fuel to the cylinder since you did the port work to allow more air to flow in and out? Higher compression may need more fuel too? I have never ported or played with squish before..
 
Brainstorming for a bit. What type of liquid gasket, was it cured before starting? That seal may have developed a leak. Did the tune change at all from when you started cutting till when you shut it off, as if it started to run leaner or richer. Watching your video now. One piece of advice for you, get a mityvac if you don't have one now. It will pay for itself by the second time you replace a piston on a saw with a unknown air leak,lol.
 
That decomp valve isn't aftermarket is it. Aftermarket ones are known to fail,horribly, it seems. Even oem sometimes leak but that is sometimes just carbon build up in them.
 
One more thing before I call it a night. Check your cylinder bolts. May have loosened up.
Seems like I think slower than I type. Trust me my typing speed is only a little bit faster than my texting speed, about one word per mile,lol.
 
One more thing before I call it a night. Check your cylinder bolts. May have loosened up.
Seems like I think slower than I type. Trust me my typing speed is only a little bit faster than my texting speed, about one word per mile,lol.

I will check them later for sure


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Brainstorming for a bit. What type of liquid gasket, was it cured before starting? That seal may have developed a leak. Did the tune change at all from when you started cutting till when you shut it off, as if it started to run leaner or richer. Watching your video now. One piece of advice for you, get a mityvac if you don't have one now. It will pay for itself by the second time you replace a piston on a saw with a unknown air leak,lol.

280a3debeb70fea566c745103d63e3c3.jpg
this is the liquid gasket, and that video wasnt me, i used that as a reference



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top