Husqvarna 371xp Big bore rebuild

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The crank bearings on the connecting rod were pretty much gone and the piston ended up seizing in the cylinder. And upon taking it apart the piston and cylinder had major scoring.
 
The wider part of the bushing goes against the crank, and the washer for the oiler worm gear goes over the narrow end. Then the oiler then the worm gear then the clutch then the drum.
 
The oring that goes under the bushing is microscopic. Make sure there are no burs on the spacer inside and out. Instead of the big bore kit , I would find a used oem or a meteor brand one. Pressure / vacuum test before running, try to use oem gaskets also. I'm rebuilding a 365 right now that wouldn't pass P&V testing due to a bad aftermarket gasket set.

Jeremy
 
The oring that goes under the bushing is microscopic. Make sure there are no burs on the spacer inside and out. Instead of the big bore kit , I would find a used oem or a meteor brand one. Pressure / vacuum test before running, try to use oem gaskets also. I'm rebuilding a 365 right now that wouldn't pass P&V testing due to a bad aftermarket gasket set.

Jeremy
agreed, with every word
 
there is a wealth of info on youtube, other than matt the other channel i would recomend is afleetcommand on youtube, he goes by weimedog here i think, has some great videos. him and spike60 (bob) have made a few vids together explaining some different husqy saws. the videos can be a little long and he does get side tracked from time to time but you get to understand his thought process. he also has a great series over the big bore hutzl top ends. actually he built one from mostly am parts. so it may benefit you to watch them.
 
yeah, I binge watch him often... hehe.

one thing I've tried to do is take people bolt by bolt through the whole process.... my channel is dedicated to things that aren't elsewhere on youtube. I really hate watching things and that last crucial step isn't shown... drives me nuts.

weimedog has a lot of very relevant stuff on there and having spike60 with him means there is a concentration of information that is rare. very cool.

i'm more of a ...um... parts changer kind of a guy... my absolute knowledge level is relatively low... but I have ambition to rips things apart and catalogue their rebuild so even I can go back and figure out what the heck is going on. I rewatch my own vids often so I can see how I did things!
 
yeah, I binge watch him often... hehe.

one thing I've tried to do is take people bolt by bolt through the whole process.... my channel is dedicated to things that aren't elsewhere on youtube. I really hate watching things and that last crucial step isn't shown... drives me nuts.

weimedog has a lot of very relevant stuff on there and having spike60 with him means there is a concentration of information that is rare. very cool.

i'm more of a ...um... parts changer kind of a guy... my absolute knowledge level is relatively low... but I have ambition to rips things apart and catalogue their rebuild so even I can go back and figure out what the heck is going on. I rewatch my own vids often so I can see how I did things!
im the same way, im here to learn, and as i learn i try and share what ive learned and keep it goin. i am by no means an expert. and step by step is nice, even walt doesnt show everything you want to see so being able to watch someone strip a saw and put it back together is very helpful.
 
my only recommendation matt i can make to your vids, is to perhaps take the saw apart once, then reassemble and then tear it down on camera. may make them flow a little better, but i know that takes more time. also when you are filming are you just using a camera or are you using a camera with a monitor so you can watch yourself while you vid to keep yourself in shot?
 
Not to sidetrack the op....

Yes...I try to monitor myself to keep the shot...and usually I'm taking apart trashed saws...so it doesn't flow smooth ad if I was taking apart a new saw...but this is closer to reality for most people....so I show how I do it. Raw and unsmooth but reality
 
I order my parts from lots of places, but if I want oem parts I order from brodner power equipment in NY state. on their website they have parts diagrams, so its easy to figure out what part you need. partstree, ereplacement parts, jacks small engines, baileys probably all have the parts too, but brodner is cheapest I have found.
 
If you have a local dealer and they are competent I would give them my business. That o ring isn't much
 
So its been a while but I got the Saw all together and it ran for about a couple minutes. But now it won't start. Compression seems good, there is good spark, but no fuel. The saw will run with dumping fuel in the carb. Tried cleaning the carb but no luck. Any ideas?
 
Found out my cylinder bolts came loose for some reason and that was the source of my vacuum leak. Should a guy put a thread locker on the threads? The saw is running great now that I tightened the bolts.
 
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