Well, I was seeing a lot of suggestions that I should talk to a dealer, so I decided to call one today. Guy I spoke with was very helpful and friendly and even offered to help me tune it for free! I think I'm going to take it in and hopefully learn some of the finer points of tuning and also find out if anything else is going wrong with the saw! Thanks again for all the help folks, I really appreciate the advice!
Husqvarna 372xp Chain Won't Stop Spinning
- Thread starter BSS
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Brian72
ArboristSite Guru
Well, I took it to a dealer near me. Guy was very friendly and helpful, tuned it up and sent me on my way. He didn't think there was any air leak because he said the rpms are usually high when there is. After tuning, the saw was full-throttle at about 13k which is definitely within its acceptable range. I fired up the saw yesterday to see how things were working out, seemed great at first, but after about 15 minutes, again, the saw started hunting at idle. I haven't spoken to the dealer about it yet, but just thought I'd post on here and see if you guys have any more feedback. When the dealer tuned the saw, he did it immediately without warming up. It seemed a little odd to me because everything I've read suggests you're supposed to warm the saw up for 5-10 minutes before tuning. I asked him about that and he said "nah, should be fine". Since the saw is hunting again after warming up, I'm wondering if that's true. Assuming there is nothing wrong with the saw, I'm guessing it just needs to be a little richer on the L setting still, but again, just thought I'd follow up one more time!
Typical dealer. Bring it back and explain that for all his efforts, it started hunting again after 15 minutes of cutting. It sounds like when you get it hot something is letting some air in. Yes, an air leak will cause it to increase rpm most times, not all. You've got to rule out an air leak before you go looking at other things IMO. If they are a dealer they SHOULD know how to diagnose your problem. Notice the capitilized text.
Btw- I don't think it has to do with your carb settings unless you've got floating H, L screws which is highly unlikely. Not impossible, but unlikely.
I ain't a betting man but I don't think its the tune...
I finally got around to calling the dealer back and describing the situation to him. He still doesn't think it's a leak (said that leaks usually become a sustained higher engine speed over time). What I'm experiencing seems to be just periodic revving at idle. I haven't attached a tachometer on it while it's doing this though and I'm not great at hearing if the idle is increasing over time. At any rate, he suggested I try tuning the idle screw a bit more and if that doesn't help, tweak the L screw a bit richer. You guys think that sounds right? I managed to capture a video of the idle, tell me what you think!
It's a shame you're not, you would have won! I spoke to my dealer again and asked if there was some way I could test for an air leak, he suggested spraying some carb cleaner where the boot meets the carburetor and if it affects the idle, there's a leak in the boot. I saw a video of a Husqvarna repair man doing the same, so I decided to give it a shot. Sure enough, after about 15 minutes, saw started revving up again, so I turned it off, took off the air filter cap and filter, fired it back up and sprayed some carb cleaner around the boot. The engine shut off immediately. I guess I need a new boot or is it possible the bolts on the carb aren't tight enough?
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2014
- Messages
- 7,785
- Reaction score
- 10,440
Be happy that you have a saw that starts, runs and cuts. Sounds like your saw is new, so give it some time.
I'll add that >98.7521% of the time my saw is running it is WOT. What it does at idle is not especially important.
I'll add that >98.7521% of the time my saw is running it is WOT. What it does at idle is not especially important.
Talk to your dealer and tell him what you found. Under warranty it should be made right. I don't know about anybody else, but all my saws are air tight, all run the way they were supposed to. If you jury rig something its going to bite you in the long run. I'm glad you diagnosed your first saw! Congratulations! Now you know an air leak doesn't necessarily speed things up!!! Lol. 
I'm glad you diagnosed your first saw! Congratulations! Now you know an air leak doesn't necessarily speed things up!!! Lol.
Thanks to you and the other forum folk here!
I'm really glad I posted here and you guys were able to help point me in the right direction. Certainly a fun crash-course into chainsaw maintenance, but hopefully will result long-term in me being more comfortable with how these crazy things work (or don't work). It kind of sucks that a new saw would have a leak, but in a way, it's nice to at least have a face on the issue (and a warranty). For a while there, I just thought I was crazy and couldn't figure out why it didn't seem to be working properly.
Similar threads
