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Exactly. Finally some sense. That was in regards to a 60's McCulloch, which I do not have all parts on hand so I don't feel like tearing it down if I could avoid it, so checking back in as I do for great solutions people come up with.


Some other people (trolls) think it's funny. Well, they must think it awfully funny that the USPTO is still keeping the lights on...



Another troll incapable of reading. Demonstrating their illiteracy and predilection to fantasy with rewriting reality. I actually answered your question before you answered it, explained precisely how I removed it. And I'm not a little guy so it's not that astounding, regardless of method. It *IS* however astounding that you bother to try to give someone crap when you yourself cannot read. As your shitpost totally misses the fact that in that well before your shitpost I explained exactly how. Hint: It's the same way your remove a clutch cover that's jammed on the drum when you're in the field doing production.

Oh wait!! there's typicaly none of the tools you listed there!

Do you not know what you speak of while giving other people ****? Color me surprised.



I will elucidate the lurkers that may become future destroyers of goods if they give in to this ******** narrative fed by the trolls:

Though it is pretty simple why I didn't put all my strength into it without asking myself how sure I was and how I could possibly know there isn't a shipping bolt put in there somewhere to isolate movement etc, I know for a fact that if that lever was between a rock and a hard place, my hands would snap it clean off if I went full bore. I went to 150% of the force I thought it should take, the vertical arm was flexing above that.

An easy example is the retention bolt in washer drums during shipping. Do go ahead and try to force that because "dur dur, I know how it turns so it should turn with enough force"


You're aces.



Thank you, Sir. It really is a simple concept, isn't it?

1. Exactly.

2. How would pulling the decomp plug leave me stuck with a used saw? Honestly. it screws in and out. Aside from seal of crush washer, if someone sends you a used saw as new, looking into it shouldn't stick you with it, IMO. Only would a new, as described saw be yours if you looked at it.


3. Directly


"The knock off fuel tanks I own look better than the one in the photo."

:innocent:

To all the trolls that don't read, that's why I mentioned it. See, I read more than I run my mouth and I've read a lot of people saying exactly that and hoe th plastics and their edges; filed and smoothed or not, etc, are the most obvious tells.


So.. (to all the trolls) for 100 points:

WHY DO YOU THINK I SOUGHT OUT, AND BROUGHT FORTH THESE POINTS WHERE THERE WAS EVIDENT POOR ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND AWAITED A QUORUM BEFORE DIGGING INTO THE SAW????

:dumb:

Because it is not inconceivable that people take advantage, that trades, exchanges and purchase agreements are sometimes prone to fraud and misrepresentation.

And I wanted to know what others who had experience with counterfeits knew before I wrenched on it. What others who received saws shipped from the dealer and not set up in-store: What the special considerations, (if any) were to running out of the box of a shipped Husqvarna, with a heavy enough powerhead to engage its own brake during transit, here in 2019.






Didn't think you were. I was confirming your observation. And I am impressed that someone caught that. I was responding to the litany of trolls.







agreed. It's the EPA compliance hours he is thinking of. (I *THINK*)



Curious. Did you not see how all the trolls determined that I am a moron and with buyers remorse, and difficult?


Yet you want to take my money. Do you Disagree?

Are they made in Sweden?

Where they gassed?

Yeah, I'm interested.
The saws I have are made in Sweden . I bought several. I have one 395XPG Left. New in the box. $1349 plus shipping .
 
Its funny how EVERY single concern the OP had about his saw he was WRONG about, like dead wrong. Yet post after post everyone else is stupid, why not take responsibility, own your mistakes and move on. Just say 'thanks folks, I GOT IT WRONG'. I have no issue offering help to a saw newbie, that's what these sites are in part about. The first clue he had never used a saw was reefing off the clutch cover while locked on, then telling us there was something wrong with it. Everything from there on went downhill fast. But instead of owning his stupidity & inexperience, he wants to tell everyone else that they are stupid. A foot up the rear would help this fellow most.
 
To me, the op blew his credibility over not knowing about the chain brake.
Still though, I would like to see a clear photo of that indention in the piston dome. Those dark verticle streaks near the top of the cylinder don't look right to me either. Don't know what they are but that's not where any I've ever seen have seized. Could they be residual assembly lube?
OP claims piston was damaged with a piston stop when removing the clutch and that piston was seized. If so, removing the muffler for a quick look in the exhaust port should show something. And if it was seized, I doubt that would require removal of the clutch.
I didn't see many details about this purchase either, was this supposed to have been some kind of a deal?
Did it come directly from a dealer or something like Ebay or Amazon?
If uncomfortable with this purchase, he really should have been in contact immediately with the seller and if that didn't work, then the credit card company.
Funny thing is, had he reset the brake, put gas and oil in it and went to the woods, I doubt this thread would even be here and Husqvarna would now have another satisfied customer.
 
I don't think the regular saw user will go to the trouble of disassembling a brand-new saw (thus potentially voiding the guarantee) just because of a hunch - return, yes, but disassembly, no way.
I don't think the OP will ever be happy with this purchase and can only strongly recommend to return it for a refund or get rid of it otherwise.
 

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