Husqvarna 41 - Crank Seal question

[WestCoastCanada]

Hi folks, i'm installing new seals on a Husqvarna 41.
It appears to me there are two seals available.
option 1 is part # 530056363 which the entire seal is pressed over the bearing.
What i have is option 2, which is part # 530019170, the seal is much thinner than option 1

So why are there two different seals available for this saw ?

and regarding part # 530019170 which is what i have... do i try to force the seal to press onto the bearing (which is counter intuitive) or is the seal supposed to be installed simply beside the bearing ???

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Option 1 :



Option 2 :

 

[Tomos770]

There are 2 versions....it depends on MY of your saw

Some had option1 some option2....they are not interchangable!

Cylinder and a "clam" is different where seals are suppose to seat!

 

[Chevboy0167]

Opton 2 should set next to the bearings but pressed "outward" towards the stopping lip of the pan and cylinder. The superseded replacement cylinder kit uses the all in one bearing/seal combo setup. And yes, not interchangeable from one style to the other.

 

[WestCoastCanada]

There are 2 versions....it depends on MY of your saw

Some had option1 some option2....they are not interchangable!

Cylinder and a "clam" is different where seals are suppose to seat!

Thanks

 

[WestCoastCanada]

Opton 2 should set next to the bearings but pressed "outward" towards the stopping lip of the pan and cylinder. The superseded replacement cylinder kit uses the all in one bearing/seal combo setup. And yes, not interchangeable from one style to the other.

Ok great, so option 2 is not pressed onto the bearing, its just set on the stopping lip....
that was helpful thanks.

 

[WestCoastCanada]

Opton 2 should set next to the bearings but pressed "outward" towards the stopping lip of the pan and cylinder. The superseded replacement cylinder kit uses the all in one bearing/seal combo setup. And yes, not interchangeable from one style to the other.

one other question please.... i just pressure/vac tested my new cylinder on the husqvarna 41, pressure is holding pretty well... but there is the tiniest of leaks where the intake boot meets the cylinder. Now both my rubber intake boot and intake valve are brand new. Is there some way i can help to seal the intake boot to the cylinder ? for example can i put gasket maker on the boot before i slip it onto the cylinder ? and if so what kind of gasket maker, will permatex 51813 do ?

 

[Chevboy0167]

51813 may not be the best choice but you sure can try it. The 38401 is what I have been using on and around anything dealing with fuel. Got to be quick to assemble the parts because it sets up fast. Works really well to seal the bottom pan to cylinder.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-2-7-oz/

 

[WestCoastCanada]

51813 may not be the best choice but you sure can try it. The 38401 is what I have been using on and around anything dealing with fuel. Got to be quick to assemble the parts because it sets up fast. Works really well to seal the bottom pan to cylinder.

https://www.permatex.com/products/g...motoseal-1-ultimate-gasket-maker-grey-2-7-oz/

Thanks... but in general what is the solution for a tiny tiny leak between an intake boot and a cylinder ? (when all parts are new)

is using gasket maker a common solution, or perhaps a metal clamp ? or both ?

 

[Chevboy0167]

I have rebuilt close to 12 of the 136-141 series saws just last summer. They are just the newer generation of what you have there. Just for fun and loaner/gifts for family and friends that need something small to cut with. I too use all new rubber parts. I just coat them in 2 cycle oil and install. Hell... I don't even pressure test half of them after refurbing! LOL No problems yet but not saying it won't/can't happen.

Clamps work best on something perfectly round not oblong like these intakes. Might even make it worse causing a gap at one side. I would even think you could get away with a light coating of automotive grade silicone sealant around the cylinder horn then press on the intake tube if it indeed is a tiny leak.

 

[WestCoastCanada]

I have rebuilt close to 12 of the 136-141 series saws just last summer. They are just the newer generation of what you have there. Just for fun and loaner/gifts for family and friends that need something small to cut with. I too use all new rubber parts. I just coat them in 2 cycle oil and install. Hell... I don't even pressure test half of them after refurbing! LOL No problems yet but not saying it won't/can't happen.

Clamps work best on something perfectly round not oblong like these intakes. Might even make it worse causing a gap at one side. I would even think you could get away with a light coating of automotive grade silicone sealant around the cylinder horn then press on the intake tube if it indeed is a tiny leak.

They are fun to work on..... thanks i will try a light coating of gasket maker on the cylinder horn... and see if it improves.... the pressure leak is every so slight... but i am a perfectionist and am aiming for zero leak