Husqvarna 435 Gremlins

[bowtiescottsdale]

So I'm working on a Husqvarna 435 e and I am having trouble that I cannot diagnose.
First: this saw came to me and I was told that it had been sitting in their garage with fuel in the tank for a few years and would not restart. So I then made the assumption that the carburetor would be gummed up and in need of disassembly and cleaning. So I did that reinstall the carburetor and still no start.
I checked for spark and there was spark present. Still no running.
I then squirted a little bit of fuel into the combustion chamber and pulled the starter, nothing. Because of this, I came to the conclusion that the coil was not delivering adequate spark. So I replaced the ignition coil.
With the ignition coil replaced the saw would startup and run for about 5 seconds. Anytime that I would touch the throttle the chainsaw would stall. So I did what I should have done from the beginning, and checked compression and pressure tested the crankcase, I found zero leaks but low compression.
I replaced the Piston and cylinder and then I had all 148 psi back.
I was excited and put the saw back together and was expecting it to run like new. After pulling the starter a few times The chainsaw came to life. Still when I touch the throttle, the chainsaw dies.
I am running out of ideas, and don't know where I should look next, what would you do?

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

Have you adjusted the carb?

 

[coffeebrk]

OEM piston and cylinder?

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

OEM piston and cylinder?

No, it's not , it is such a cheap saw initially. I could not justify spending the money

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

Have you adjusted the carb?

Yes, I have

 

[Gord404]

carb could be plugged intenally or your diapham is not set right - could buy a cheap china one and cross your fingers

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

Is there a specific way to set the needle arm? I've always just installed them

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://zamacorp.com/tclist.html?cnum=C1T-EL41A

https://zamacorp.com/disassemblyservicing-as250.html

https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Walbro-...954011&rps=1&sprefix=zama+tool,aps,132&sr=8-1

 

[SteveSr]

Is there a specific way to set the needle arm? I've always just installed them

If you replaced the metering lever it MUST be adjusted properly in the carb using either a straightedge or the Zama "Z" gauge. While I seldom replace metering levers as they don't really wear out I ALWAYS check the setting just in case someone else has been in there and mucked it up.

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

If you replaced the metering lever it MUST be adjusted properly in the carb using either a straightedge or the Zama "Z" gauge. While I seldom replace metering levers as they don't really wear out I ALWAYS check the setting just in case someone else has been in there and mucked it up.

Thank you so much, I had no idea they published an adjustment for these

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

https://zamacorp.com/tclist.html?cnum=C1T-EL41A

https://zamacorp.com/disassemblyservicing-as250.html

https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Walbro-500-13-Metering-Adjustment/dp/B0876X2G1X/ref=sr_1_1?crid=18RDN8XLXYBV9&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.05yzTeWpXfw2fNngBtme63RCZ47pQxcrEJxoour1ZOPeMlteBeR3BcLjeuJyn7YK679NMeo0Xk-aDaF6DxRMTB_ksbt4lL_0Ld9PSD8URNYgN-aPtI8Zjo9fRBw-mRYIcMiMIvHGZLvxiAaVRNOWrrD_cIQjTJzd2ItyBfEFmW4IsIOehdg8vHAVHkmTDKFOGIVD1yERbctPDAbhBEvIWSsV9emykpIyvXmqm_sF_NE.-1h8bUWsufoEqZFVP-4OxaUItuDbYz39Jk1wxU-8SWw&dib_tag=se&keywords=Zama+tool&qid=1722716365&refinements=p_85:2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=zama+tool,aps,132&sr=8-1

Thank you, I had no idea that there was an adjustment published for this lever. I ordered the z gage

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

I will throw an update you alls way, so today after looking at the saw, and doing another pressure and vacuum test, which passed with flying colors, and checking the fuel lines to make sure they were clear, while I had do the handle off anyways, all was okay.
So I then started to reassemble the chainsaw while following the IPL, to make sure I was doing everything correctly, it still seemed from my experience that there was a leak somewhere, and I just happened to shine my flashlight between the intake manifold and The jug, I could see light on the other side! I determined that these screws that holds the intake manifold to the jug were bottoming out before they could seal the intake manifold to the jug. So I cut the screws down and hoped for the best, I then continued the Assembly of the saw.
Upon starting the chainsaw, it ran better, but still not correctly. It still would not take throttle very well and after 3 to 4 seconds of idling it would cough through the intake and turn off.
I then assumed I must have an ignition problem, so I decided to check the primary windings and secondary windings of the ignition coil. The primary side showed an open loop, while the secondary showed only about 2500 ohms. So I figure my new Chinese ignition coil is no good.
So the next things I plan to do are replacing the ignition coil with a new OEM coil and check the metering lever inside the carburator.

Thank you again for the suggestions.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Using a multimeter test on that newer style of coil will not work.

There is a transistor and capacitor in that "module" that are charged and triggered by the flywheel.

The ohm test works on older points and condenser style ignitions as long as the meter has capacitance test for the condenser.

 

[SteveSr]

Is there a specific way to set the needle arm? I've always just installed them

If you replaced the metering lever it MUST be adjusted properly in the carb using either a straightedge or the Zama "Z" gauge. While I seldom replace metering levers as they don't really wear out I ALWAYS check the setting just in case someone else has been in there and mucked it up.

I will throw an update you alls way, so today after looking at the saw, and doing another pressure and vacuum test, which passed with flying colors, and checking the fuel lines to make sure they were clear, while I had do the handle off anyways, all was okay.
So I then started to reassemble the chainsaw while following the IPL, to make sure I was doing everything correctly, it still seemed from my experience that there was a leak somewhere, and I just happened to shine my flashlight between the intake manifold and The jug, I could see light on the other side! I determined that these screws that holds the intake manifold to the jug were bottoming out before they could seal the intake manifold to the jug. So I cut the screws down and hoped for the best, I then continued the Assembly of the saw.
Upon starting the chainsaw, it ran better, but still not correctly. It still would not take throttle very well and after 3 to 4 seconds of idling it would cough through the intake and turn off.
I then assumed I must have an ignition problem, so I decided to check the primary windings and secondary windings of the ignition coil. The primary side showed an open loop, while the secondary showed only about 2500 ohms. So I figure my new Chinese ignition coil is no good.
So the next things I plan to do are replacing the ignition coil with a new OEM coil and check the metering lever inside the carburator.

Thank you again for the suggestions.

I would NEVER buy a China coil. Most of the OEM ones have a microcontroller in them to control the advance curve. What is wrong with your original coil? There should be plenty of used ones on Ebay and they all come with a guarantee!

BTW, I have found bottomed out screws in other Poulan / Husqvarna products.

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

Question for you guys, it looks like there is a difference between the Husqvarna ignition coil, 435e and 435e ll? 573935702 435e vs 579638804 435e ll

 

[Tomos770]

Look up his channel.....for Husq 4xx gremlins...they are common between H4xx chassis

Yes its not your model directly....but he covers all your problems (search for all H4xx videos)

 

[bowtiescottsdale]

Well guys, it now runs like it should! Had the wrong ignition coil the entire time . So yes the series 2 uses a to different ignition module then series 1