Husqvarna 435 X Torq problems, need help. Starter, fuel leak, not getting full throttle, etc

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thefarmboy21

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The other day a guy from work called me up, because he was having problems with his 435 Husky. He said it sat for several months (apparently somewhere moist cause the bar and chain had fresh rust) and got it out to do some work around the farm. According to him he got it fired up and then it bogged down and sputtered out. Not sure if it happened more than once or not, but he started having issues with his starter recoil. I told him to bring it to me and I'd take a look at it. He brought it to me today with the rope hanging out of it and said he's had it on and off 10-15 times and sprayed it with Kroil and still was hanging up. I took the recoil off the saw and the chord immediately retracted quickly and I noticed the plastic pawl/gear was kinda worn looking and that one "ear" was split open....so a new starter assembly and that problem should be taken care of. Here's where I'm stumped....

I hauled it home laying on its side, because that's usually the only way you can lay one and be sure it wont leak. Well.....it leaked the entire contents of the fuel tank into my trunk. It appears that the tank vent is on that side and would have been facing down, but it shouldn't leak right?!?! I mean, that's how you lay it to fuel it up and that's how you run it, when felling. So am I missing something, or do I have an actual leak somewhere?

Besides that, when I hit the trigger it takes a good 1/4-1/2 trugger pull to come in contact with the throttle rod and doesn't seem to be getting full throttle. I'm just assuming it's not getting full throttle because I can shove farther forward on the rod with my finger until it maxes out....when I do this, the throttle rod is probably 1/4" away from where the trigger plate stops. Is there an adjustment for this?!?!

Once I'll of course clean the air filter, check the fuel lines, spark plug, etc... but this will get me ahead hopefully so I can be ready to fix the real issues when I do the basic stuff this weekend. Thanks!
 
The fuel tank vent is on the clutch side. Search web for 537 35 95-01 and you can see a pic. It should be a 1 way valve. You have to take fuel tank handle off to get to it. Could be leaking thru the valve, around it or valve is missing.
Could be throttle rod is bent, or plastic rod cover or trigger pusher plate is worn or damaged so that metal rod doesn't travel to WOT.
Look over IPL: http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2009_AAaa/HUSI2009_AAaa_27_.pdf
 
The fuel tank vent is on the clutch side. Search web for 537 35 95-01 and you can see a pic. It should be a 1 way valve. You have to take fuel tank handle off to get to it. Could be leaking thru the valve, around it or valve is missing.
Could be throttle rod is bent, or plastic rod cover or trigger pusher plate is worn or damaged so that metal rod doesn't travel to WOT.
Look over IPL: http://www.husqvarna.com/ddoc/HUSI/HUSI2009_AAaa/HUSI2009_AAaa_27_.pdf


Online the tank vents just look like they have a strange filter shoved inside them and not a valve? I can see it clearly on the saw, but haven't pulled it out yet.

Still stumped on the throttle, but I'll keep looking at it and researching.
 
Too the tank off and it seems fine. I can't see or find anywhere it might be leaking. The tank vent seems to function properly. I'm hoping it was a fluke and just had a loose fuel line or had some fuel drain out the carb. I also got the carb off and cleaned this evening....that thing is quite an odd ball. Already have it cleaned and back on though.

The throttle apparently gets WOT when the saw buries into some wood and the anti-vide flexes back. Flexing the saw was the only way I coulda get it to max out.

The plug is black and wet looking, so I'm guessing it's fouled, but now sure if that's what caused the issues or not.

Fuel had some weird orange stuff in it. Looked like orange Koolaid. Not sure if it was water, or fuel treatment, or both.

took the muffler off and everything looks good in there too.
 
Now my biggest issue is the chain brake. The brake band doesn't want to slip over the clutch. You can tell that at one point it wasn't on correctly and both parts are worn now from it.

Any tips on that???

Another thing I'm not fond of, is the fact that I have to have a special tool, to tune the carb. A 21 tooth littler screw/nut driver type thing. Hopefully it gets delivered when it's supposed too.
 
Sounds like anti-vibe springs are weak and throttle rod doesn't travel all the the way forward for WOT. You're pushing handle closer to chassis and then you get WOT.

Maybe brake band is bent and you need a new one.

Splined tool for carb - can buy on ebay. Or dremel a slot into H-L screws and use a little slotted screwdriver.
 
Sounds like anti-vibe springs are weak and throttle rod doesn't travel all the the way forward for WOT. You're pushing handle closer to chassis and then you get WOT.

Maybe brake band is bent and you need a new one.

Splined tool for carb - can buy on ebay. Or dremel a slot into H-L screws and use a little slotted screwdriver.


Yea I ordered the tool last night....$6 for a Huztl from Amazon.

I think someone didn't line up the chain break and the clutch drum and ran it and fouled it up. Not the break lever flexes pretty good.
 
Just thought I would update the thread:

I took the brake apart and cleaned everything, and used a dremel to clean up the brake band and clutch drum. I fixed the recoil/starter with some JB Weld, just enough to test the saw and jeep for a backup, but his new recoil has already came in. I found a spot that was missing a rubber AV bushing, so I took some vacuum line and wrapped it with a couple strips of gorilla tape, until it fit snug in the saw body. The throttle was hanging up (I'm assuming due to wear) so a little white lithium grease has mostly taken care of that issue. I took the muffler and checked the P&C and it looks good from both sides. Minimal carbon on the piston and the exhaust port and muffler were clear as well. I ordered a $6 Huztl carb tool online....why Husky decided to use a stupid little 21 spline nut driver style tool for those saws, I have no idea (other than requiring dealer maintenance) ANYWAY I got it all back together and fired up. Had to adjust pretty much everything on the carb. It wouldn't idle at all at first and then I tweaked the H&L needles slightly. Runs really strong and crisp now. He's gonna fell a few trees this weekend and see how it does. Thanks for the help.
 
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