Yup, 4 of 5 mm hex for all of my Husqvarna saws (slightly older) for the muffler screws.
Husqvarna 440 with stripped spark plug - worth rebuilding?
- Thread starter flymo
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Do you pressure test after the repair?
flymo
ArboristSite Lurker
5mm Allen it is! Thanks folks! And also good news is that by shining a flashlight through the plug hole, I can see the entire top of the piston via the exhaust port, so I should be able to find any stray chips.
I do not. It is important to rethread straight and that the gasket on the plug can seal to the cylinder. No repair threads above to interfere.
I have found that some of them leak.
I found that with one i didn't get quite right... made myself a little reaming tool that fit snugly in the hole & evenly machined down the top of the insert/cylinder so everything was flush & at 90° to the plug hole
flymo
ArboristSite Lurker
Well after the busy summer, I finally got around to doing the helicoil thing, and it seems to have worked great. The grease on the tap did not pick up all the chips, but they were easy to blow out of the cylinder. With a flashlight down the plug hole, the whole interior of the cylinder is pretty easy to see. I used the Loctite sleeve sealant, after trying a dry fit.
So it's running fine, but doesn't seem to be oiling - that's my next challenge. I dug around in the oil reservoir, thinking I'd come up with a hose with a filter on the end of it, but there doesn't seem to be anything in there. From a quick look at the part diagram, those are not used on this saw, so I think first I'll try backflushing the oil channel with some WD40, then blowing it out. Other ideas welcome too!
So it's running fine, but doesn't seem to be oiling - that's my next challenge. I dug around in the oil reservoir, thinking I'd come up with a hose with a filter on the end of it, but there doesn't seem to be anything in there. From a quick look at the part diagram, those are not used on this saw, so I think first I'll try backflushing the oil channel with some WD40, then blowing it out. Other ideas welcome too!
I have a 345 that kept stripping the gear on the piston pump until I made a cover for the gears. I'm guessing there was supposed to be something there that was lost before I acquired the saw.
Mark
Mark
Mark, is this cover on there???
It has been so long I don't remember...I still have the saw and used it occasionally, next time I have it out I will take a look. It's very possible that cover is missing.
When are you coming up for a visit?
Mark
When are you coming up for a visit?
Mark
Yeah.... LOL .... I still need to do that sometime.
flymo
ArboristSite Lurker
Interesting - but how do you get to it? Looks like the whole plastic housing needs to come off?
Does your 345 have an adjustable oiler? Most had a fixed oiler & if the adjustable oiler was fitted the drive gear had to be changed as one has a slightly courser pitch.
Yes, you must remove the rear handle/fuel tank to gain access. Complete PIA.
Take off the clutch, the worm gear, and the cover plate shown above. Ensure the worm gear and the pump spline are not stripped. Also ensure the pump actuating pin (503240905) is present (pressed into the crankcase with the pump eccentric groove riding on it). If you remove the pump, you'll then be able to blow out the passage to the oil tank without having to remove the filter thingy shown above.
