Husqvarna 61 wont idle

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Gradyy

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I picked up a Husky 61 with the dark top for a back up saw. It is in good shape, looks very lightly used, and has the original bar that looks almost new. The guy said it had been in storage for a while. I adjusted the carb but I can't quite get it to idle without the chain turning. It sounds fine and cranks wide open but stalls out on idle. The spark seems light but enough to bite me when I held the boot to ground the plug against the jug to check the spark. I'll have to get my glasses (and a glove) and check it again. The carb is tight but could be an air leak? Any. thoughts are appreciated.
 
I picked up a Husky 61 with the dark top for a back up saw. It is in good shape, looks very lightly used, and has the original bar that looks almost new. The guy said it had been in storage for a while. I adjusted the carb but I can't quite get it to idle without the chain turning. It sounds fine and cranks wide open but stalls out on idle. The spark seems light but enough to bite me when I held the boot to ground the plug against the jug to check the spark. I'll have to get my glasses (and a glove) and check it again. The carb is tight but could be an air leak? Any. thoughts are appreciated.
Could be a problem with the carb, might need a cleaning or rebuild.
Also try to let more fuel in at idle by turning the L jet counter clockwise a 1/16 turn or in that narrow range somewhere don't go crazy.
 
Adjusting the Low speed screw doesn't help. I've gone back and forth with the L and the Throttle but can't quite get it to idle without stalling or the chain still advancing. Maybe a carb kit will do it?
 
Adjusting the Low speed screw doesn't help. I've gone back and forth with the L and the Throttle but can't quite get it to idle without stalling or the chain still advancing. Maybe a carb kit will do it?
Clutch springs or clutch locked up.
 
Adjusting the Low speed screw doesn't help. I've gone back and forth with the L and the Throttle but can't quite get it to idle without stalling or the chain still advancing. Maybe a carb kit will do it?
A tach would be of some use at this point. A carb kit can be tried but no guarantee. May need a new carb,but like Grizz said check the clutch spring too. If you had a tach we would already have an idea of the clutch malfunctioning or not. You might even be able to just spray the carb out with no kit in the meanwhile.
 
Yeah, I don't have a tach. It's on the wish list. What are the possible issues with the clutch and how do I check them? The spring isn't broken. Can it be too weak? The drum spins freely when it's not running. The chain does stop turning just before it stalls. It seems like my 266 idles faster without the chain spinning. I think this one would idle at that speed. I really appreciate the help. What's a good tach?
 
Yeah, I don't have a tach. It's on the wish list. What are the possible issues with the clutch and how do I check them? The spring isn't broken. Can it be too weak? The drum spins freely when it's not running. The chain does stop turning just before it stalls. It seems like my 266 idles faster without the chain spinning. I think this one would idle at that speed. I really appreciate the help.
Try this pull the saw over with the kill switch on an see if the clutch is engaging indicated by the chain moving. If you still arent sure you need a tach to tell. Dont rule out the carb yet.
 
The chain doesn't move when pulling the recoil hard. I think I rebuilt one of these carbs once but its been so long I can't remember. Does it have the flexible diaphragm that acts like a fuel pump? If so, maybe this one dried out from sitting? The saw is so clean, it sure didn't wear out. I bought that 266 new in 1981 and I've never had that carb apart. I think the only thing it's had besides fuel lines and filters is a clutch spring. - and a couple kill switches
 
The fuel line looks brand new - I have a few so I can change it and the filter but I don't think that's it because it will deliver plenty of fuel when I hold it wide open. I've never heard of a weak clutch spring but I have broken a few. If it was weak, that would do it.
 
The fuel line looks brand new - I have a few so I can change it and the filter but I don't think that's it because it will deliver plenty of fuel when I hold it wide open. I've never heard of a weak clutch spring but I have broken a few. If it was weak, that would do it.
That saw should have a single rope style clutch spring I believe.They do get weak.If thats the problem,you could set the actual idle screw in a turn or so.
 
That saw should have a single rope style clutch spring I believe.They do get weak.If thats the problem,you could set the actual idle screw in a turn or so.
Yes, it is one of those springs. My problem is when I turn the idle up enough to keep it running, the chain turns.
 
The fuel line looks brand new - I have a few so I can change it and the filter but I don't think that's it because it will deliver plenty of fuel when I hold it wide open. I've never heard of a weak clutch spring but I have broken a few. If it was weak, that would do it.

Failing or "weak" clutch springs will cause a chain to race, largely aside from any tuning you change.
 
Sounds like you already have some ideas presented here to sort this out, but I wanted to second the comments above about getting a tach. It was one of those things where I didn't realize how useful it would be until I had it. I just got one of the cheap $11 units on Amazon, didn't spend big bucks, and it is a real time saver when troubleshooting problems like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXXLXFP/
 
Thanks, I just ordered one. Seems like last time I priced them they were like $100.00. It's hard to believe that anything costs less these days.
 
Adjusting the Low speed screw doesn't help. I've gone back and forth with the L and the Throttle but can't quite get it to idle without stalling or the chain still advancing. Maybe a carb kit will do it?
If it won't tune out there could be a leak between the carb and the cylinder intake. There also could be a crack or issue with the fuel line. As long as there is vacuum from the crank it should function the carb no problem. If these all check out I'd clean the carb filter and or get a $12 rebuild kit. Hope this helps.
 

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