Husqy 51 (what would you do with it?)

[CsClimbr]

Got into a 51 basket case earlier. Cleaned her up a bit as I like ‘em shiney. Quick compression test between 110-120 with a bit of transfer on the exhaust side of the jug (Mahle). Case looks decent, muffler kinda rusty/beat. I do have a full gasket set & seals to go in as it won’t pass a pressure/vac test as is. Would need some small parts & hardware here & there if I were to cleanup the piston/jug. Haven’t located the carb just yet but I know I have it as I threw a kit in it awhile back..

Would you fully teardown & attempt to salvage as a loaner to the BIL?

Maybe an A/M top end (I believe these can be converted to a 55 Rancher top if I’m not mistaken)?

Box it as parts if I ever come across a 55R on the cheap down the road?

Place it back under the bench just to dig it out years from now and start a duplicate thread?

 

[67L36Driver]

50, 51 and 55 are finest kind. [emoji108]

Aftermarket parts are cheap and everywhere.[emoji106]

Fix it.

 

[cus_deluxe]

Replace the carb partition, and pulse grommet, those killed a LOT of these saws. Good saws tho, id get it goin again if it was mine.

 

[s sidewall]

Install a 55 p/c kit and don't loan it out.

Steve

 

[decableguy2000]

$100 for an OEM 55 kit, They make good firewood saws for the average Joe.

 

[stinkbait]

The 51 is a good saw. Here is a video of one I ported a few years ago.

 

[s sidewall]

I installed a Hyway 55 kit with compression release on my son in law's 51 a few years ago, still going strong.

Steve

 

[burnses]

hard to imagine a better semi modern saw for general or fire wood work....oem top end is not much more than aftermarket I would crack it open and gofor crank seals ect.pay special attention to intake plate connector tube and impulse grommet.....need a good seal there. slight down side is oililer runs all the time off crank so they really oil....great mid range power band...and if a air injection excellent air filtration.....build it right do it once!

good luck

 

[CsClimbr]

Replace the carb partition, and pulse grommet, those killed a LOT of these saws. Good saws tho, id get it goin again if it was mine.

hard to imagine a better semi modern saw for general or fire wood work....oem top end is not much more than aftermarket I would crack it open and gofor crank seals ect.pay special attention to intake plate connector tube and impulse grommet.....need a good seal there. slight down side is oililer runs all the time off crank so they really oil....great mid range power band...and if a air injection excellent air filtration.....build it right do it once!

good luck

One of the first things I noticed was the intake manifold and pulse grommet. Intake didn’t look like it would seal very good and 2 split pieces of white rubber tubing? I pulled out of the cylinder and tossed. Easy air leaks for sure

 

[CsClimbr]

Horrible setup IMO

 

[cus_deluxe]

It really works surprisingly well. The problem is from overtightening the screws into plastic threads. And that little grommet just deteriorates over time like any other rubber bits.

 

[CsClimbr]

It really works surprisingly well. The problem is from overtightening the screws into plastic threads. And that little grommet just deteriorates over time like any other rubber bits.

If I wasn’t thorough, I wouldn’t have thought there wasnt a grommet in there. Either it’s tiny or it was deterioated to the point of barely anything left. Any idea where I can find a pic of what it’s supposed to look like?

 

[CsClimbr]

A quick google search shows this part number and connector. What I pulled out (and should have saved) looked more like 2 chunks of larger than fuel line white colored rubber. At least it had the consistency of rotted fuel line. I’d have to guess someone made a quick fix in the past using what they had but it sure didn’t hold up well

 

[cus_deluxe]

View attachment 649959

A quick google search shows this part number and connector. What I pulled out (and should have saved) looked more like 2 chunks of larger than fuel line white colored rubber. At least it had the consistency of rotted fuel line. I’d have to guess someone made a quick fix in the past using what they had but it sure didn’t hold up well

Nahhh, that sounds about like what happens to em after 20 years or so lol.

 

[CsClimbr]

Nahhh, that sounds about like what happens to em after 20 years or so lol.

I guess that could ‘splain the transfer def had to be leaking

 

[CsClimbr]

I shall revive her, anyone have any experience with an AM crank and flywheel? Im not liking the looks of the threads on this thing

 

[joe25DA]

View attachment 649695

Got into a 51 basket case earlier. Cleaned her up a bit as I like ‘em shiney. Quick compression test between 110-120 with a bit of transfer on the exhaust side of the jug (Mahle). Case looks decent, muffler kinda rusty/beat. I do have a full gasket set & seals to go in as it won’t pass a pressure/vac test as is. Would need some small parts & hardware here & there if I were to cleanup the piston/jug. Haven’t located the carb just yet but I know I have it as I threw a kit in it awhile back..

Would you fully teardown & attempt to salvage as a loaner to the BIL?

Maybe an A/M top end (I believe these can be converted to a 55 Rancher top if I’m not mistaken)?

Box it as parts if I ever come across a 55R on the cheap down the road?

Place it back under the bench just to dig it out years from now and start a duplicate thread?

My wife's brother doesn't know which end of a screwdriver to hold. High paid desk jockey with an attitude problem. Def don't need to worry about lending tools his way

 

[CsClimbr]

Drove myself nuts attempting to get the oil drive gear off the crank, finally success..

It was then after doing things the hard way, I realized I purchased the Husqvarna specialty tool to make my life easier

 

[CsClimbr]

Uh oh... any idea what, if anything, I can do with this flywheel? There was no key, seemed it was just maybe impacted on at some point.

Is there a way I can line this up correctly and fab up a custom key for it or is it not worth the effort and would call for a new FW?

So far ive replaced all gaskets, bearings, seals, crank, muffler.. I’d rather not scrap the build now but just came across this

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Uh oh... any idea what, if anything, I can do with this flywheel? There was no key, seemed it was just maybe impacted on at some point.

Is there a way I can line this up correctly and fab up a custom key for it or is it not worth the effort and would call for a new FW?

So far ive replaced all gaskets, bearings, seals, crank, muffler.. I’d rather not scrap the build now but just came across this
View attachment 652061

Those keys are cast and soft, if not tightened, will strip out. I have cut a slot in flywheel and installed a key several times. Make sure crank is cleaned well, more like a compression fit.