I have never had to do anything else.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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just got the taps.... prepare to have your minds blown 
Wood Chopper
ArboristSite Operative
just got the taps.... prepare to have your minds blown
Lol. Nice. [emoji23]
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Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
just got the taps.... prepare to have your minds blown
I know these can be made without the aid of a lathe -- and the illustration was to show us that it can be done for the average joe. I appreciate the illustration.
If I had access to a lathe, I would certainly want to make a set that were precision enough to keep for a lifetime. Would you be interested in making a set for
me?
I would be using these on Stihl saws -- 026, 044, MS460, MS660 etc.
I wasn't planning on going into production, but it has already been suggested to me by another member that i may be able to produce these. we shall see.
i haven't gotten a chance to play with the new taps yet... but I can't imagine it not working.
what are the threads on the cranks of the 026 044 and 460 etc?
-Matt
i haven't gotten a chance to play with the new taps yet... but I can't imagine it not working.
what are the threads on the cranks of the 026 044 and 460 etc?
-Matt
Husqvarna sells crank pullers for most of their models, I have all of them. Wonder if any would work on the Stihl's? Wonder if any of the threads are the same? Thought about making a few modeled after the Husqvarna pullers which are really handy...and cheap. Like $20 bucks. But......why. The press works find and I have it. AND that technic works with any brand saw regardless of threads, crank length... BUT I have to admit I use those Husqvarna pullers where they work. Partly because they fit to the inner race of the bearings when pulling the crank through. Theoretically less stressful on the bearings and cases. I've never had or seen an issue with heat & press. Dilemma for some....not for me. If I don't have a puller I go back to the press. Never not with a solution. $100 to $150 gets one of the most versatile tools for the shop....mine was purchased in the early 1980's when i was rebuilding Mercury Outboards for a hobby & to fund the boating habbit. having a dedicated puller for the 660's might increase the quality of life .... maybe. Still would have to yank the seal. Stihl's seal driver tool was about 40 bucks....worth every penny.
BUT I have to admit I use those Husqvarna pullers where they work. Partly because they fit to the inner race of the bearings when pulling the crank through. Theoretically less stressful on the bearings and cases. I've never had or seen an issue with heat & press. Dilemma for some....not for me. If I don't have a puller I go back to the press. Never not with a solution. $100 to $150 gets one of the most versatile tools for the shop....mine was purchased in the early 1980's when i was rebuilding Mercury Outboards for a hobby & to fund the boating habbit. having a dedicated puller for the 660's might increase the quality of life .... maybe. Still would have to yank the seal. Stihl's seal driver tool was about 40 bucks....worth every penny.
Without question I need a shop press. But I don't have a shop lol. I have a basement room that I work in.
I think at least some of the thread sizes overlap, supposedly the 660 does ... we shall see about the others.
Walt, do you have a pic of that stihl seal tool? this is the driver, not the remover right? I've seen you use it on the vids, but it'd be nice to have a clear pic of the business end of it. When I get the 660 i'll be able to see for myself whats what.
Original order date was 2/3 ... I modded the order 2/11 and have been told the order was "merged" Still no ship date. Pretty sure their definition of "merged" and my definition are different.
I think at least some of the thread sizes overlap, supposedly the 660 does ... we shall see about the others.
Walt, do you have a pic of that stihl seal tool? this is the driver, not the remover right? I've seen you use it on the vids, but it'd be nice to have a clear pic of the business end of it. When I get the 660 i'll be able to see for myself whats what.
Original order date was 2/3 ... I modded the order 2/11 and have been told the order was "merged" Still no ship date. Pretty sure their definition of "merged" and my definition are different.
Think I will look at possible cross-use with the Husqvarna pullers, especially on the 036. The thing has 6202's like a 372 so the diameters are right. Just have to check the threads. What makes a "puller" concept interesting is they put all the pressure therefore stress in the the inside race of the bearings & not the "balls" and certainly not that relatively weak case. SO while I've never had a case fail pressing bearings or cranks through bearings..I guess its theoretically possible.... Also dropping the bearings on the crank then warming the cases to around 230 degrees ... often you dont need ANYTHING except gloves and coordination to get those case halves together, screws in, and a cordless drill with a bit to run those case screws home to pull the halves together. Kwikly!! (Did a video once doing this using a WOOD STOVE for its crude visual impact ) A technic I've used when replacing bearings as you see on the crank where the bearings were... Bottom line? Many ways to skin a cat. BUT pullers are cool. And the safest way in my mind...why I have so many.
The "official" seal drivers, like the Husqvarna & Stihl shop tools look like upside down top hats (Mine are just turned out of bar stock), what makes them work is the inside diameter (PTO side) is a slip fit over the crank. Also on the Husqvarna ones (like the one I turned in that video making one for a 372's and 390's) they have a "step" to seat the seal at the proper depth, if its not supposed to be flush. Be a real easy lathe task for you. I built a set for the Husqvarna's and now the Stilhs where I don't have the "official" Stihl shop tool version. As I do these things anymore I just make the tools real time...the drawer is getting heavy. A driver even works if the crank has that sharp edge, of course I break the edge anyway, but by supporting the "seal" section it goes in anyway.
Just a thought...we touched on it on the "other" place. What about modifying one of these....move that bottom "support/guide" up on the "A" to get more room and make this a bench top press. Actually taking one of these and modifying it would be a useful video as it does end up with a tool very useful to the saw hobbyist and puts it in a foot print that might fit on a desk or bench....come up with a "saw work bench" concept.... Useful when all else fails or you don't have time to build a special tool....
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html
Bottom line? Many ways to skin a cat. BUT pullers are cool. And the safest way in my mind...why I have so many.The "official" seal drivers, like the Husqvarna & Stihl shop tools look like upside down top hats (Mine are just turned out of bar stock), what makes them work is the inside diameter (PTO side) is a slip fit over the crank. Also on the Husqvarna ones (like the one I turned in that video making one for a 372's and 390's) they have a "step" to seat the seal at the proper depth, if its not supposed to be flush. Be a real easy lathe task for you. I built a set for the Husqvarna's and now the Stilhs where I don't have the "official" Stihl shop tool version. As I do these things anymore I just make the tools real time...the drawer is getting heavy. A driver even works if the crank has that sharp edge, of course I break the edge anyway, but by supporting the "seal" section it goes in anyway.
Just a thought...we touched on it on the "other" place. What about modifying one of these....move that bottom "support/guide" up on the "A" to get more room and make this a bench top press. Actually taking one of these and modifying it would be a useful video as it does end up with a tool very useful to the saw hobbyist and puts it in a foot print that might fit on a desk or bench....come up with a "saw work bench" concept....
Useful when all else fails or you don't have time to build a special tool....http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html
I'm not opposed to having a press ... far from it. and I'm sure i'd probably pick up something like that eventually.
and that benchtop press I'm sure i'd mod a bit, add a few piece of angle to the bottom of it just to give it more extension...
but again, if I can make these tools this easily, and for sure not have a problem.... why go to the press?
but again, if I can make these tools this easily, and for sure not have a problem.... why go to the press?
I have the Stihl crank pulling tools, and some of the Husqvarna tools. I use them mostly when replacing a case half, or a bearing. But when assembling a saw from the crank up, I normally just use heat.
I remember a few years back doing a "heat" focused video with a wood stove as the heat source...and it was single digits out side in the garage to further increase the heat differential....did it for "farmer Jones fun".. worked just fine. Tried to have as many crude 2x4 blocks and the like to help the effect & atmosphere in the video..LOL
worked just fine. Tried to have as many crude 2x4 blocks and the like to help the effect & atmosphere in the video..LOL
Understand this was more than a little about the "show".....but the concept works.... No press. No pullers.....2x4's, sockets. a hammer, nature's freezer and a wood stove! Done BEFORE I wore "cheeter glasses" too... that saw bounced around a while on the farm, then as a "loaner" saw to customers when I was working on theirs and they needed one (all loggers), then one of those guys just....wanted that goofy saw! So I sold it, and it still is out there making money...and all this started because I was thinking I was going to have a video hand grenade....LOL that saw got the last laugh I think.
Breaking that saw in doing typical work...when the realization began to grow that this was a legitimate saw.. changed my entire perspective on these things. I honestly didn't know if those parts would last an afternoon....so was going to document its glory & demise. Its still going, that camera is long since dead..(A bloggie)
(All "tapped" Hard maple, cut placement was a lot about missing taps.. )
Breaking that saw in doing typical work...when the realization began to grow that this was a legitimate saw.. changed my entire perspective on these things. I honestly didn't know if those parts would last an afternoon....so was going to document its glory & demise. Its still going, that camera is long since dead..(A bloggie)
(All "tapped" Hard maple, cut placement was a lot about missing taps..
)
To Walt and MM, believe me, you guys have WAY more exp than me doing this, and if you say you've never had a problem with lateral forces on bearings, I totally believe you. AND yes, I've seen the vids on the hutzl saw workin and becoming a legit saw... which is cool in and of itself. I love different ways to do things, I've just gotten annoyed a bit lately with the heat and cold etc etc of putting these things together. and now that i've found out its so easy to make these tools, why not.
one other thing that has worried me a bit, is when I do the final case assembly is that I have sealer on the case/gasket... heat cold differentials, getting it all seated and sealed all at the same time is a bit unnerving. hopefully now I can do it at room temp and in a very controlled way.
I JUST tapped m14 and m12 tools for clutch sides .... and yes, they work. vid is coming later today probably. once the 660 gets here I may demo both the tools and the heat/cold thing... we shall see. I think the fastest way to do it will be to heat the inner race on the PTO side, drop the cold crank in. let everything come to room temp, apply sealer/gasket and then use my puller to pull the flywheel side through ... done. ...hopefully. lol
Walt, I'll trade you a m12/m14 double ender puller for a seal seater set (have to make another one for ya lol)
one other thing that has worried me a bit, is when I do the final case assembly is that I have sealer on the case/gasket... heat cold differentials, getting it all seated and sealed all at the same time is a bit unnerving. hopefully now I can do it at room temp and in a very controlled way.
I JUST tapped m14 and m12 tools for clutch sides .... and yes, they work. vid is coming later today probably. once the 660 gets here I may demo both the tools and the heat/cold thing... we shall see. I think the fastest way to do it will be to heat the inner race on the PTO side, drop the cold crank in. let everything come to room temp, apply sealer/gasket and then use my puller to pull the flywheel side through ... done. ...hopefully. lol
Walt, I'll trade you a m12/m14 double ender puller for a seal seater set
(have to make another one for ya lol)
You can, but pullers are better. Nothing is idiot proof though. A press will flex the cases less than the screws BTW if the temps are a little cold. Rarely ever have to tap a crank after using a puller or a press. Often times do if the case screws do the deed, especially if things chill. But you know? Can argue the merits until the earths crust cools. They all work well and have for decades. No new ground here. Really just boils down to what tools do you have and which have you learned to be the most comfortable with. Pullers are the best approach for me. Others will pick different tactics and learn to make them work. Matt's pullers are cool not because "Pullers" are a new concept, but because he's building his own special tools...thats cool.
I'm just having a hard time believing these actually work lol. You are right...no real new ground being broken here..the tools are not innovative with the exception they are a diy item.
I'm gonna work on the m12 m14 vid now.....
I'm gonna work on the m12 m14 vid now.....
cvx1170
ArboristSite Member
Here my 2euros crankcase opener, tonight will be try to do bearing installation tool
Envoyé de mon SM-G361F en utilisant Tapatalk
Envoyé de mon SM-G361F en utilisant Tapatalk
Here my 2euros crankcase opener, tonight will be try to do bearing installation tool
Envoyé de mon SM-G361F en utilisant Tapatalk
Those "Metric" sized precision welds? very cool BTW..
here they are... m12 and m14
