Yep....I used to keep my cranks in the freezer...no need anymore
One of the premium bearing manufacturers recommends a 150F difference in parts to seat bearings. So a -10F frozen bearing and a 140F case is supposed to achieve the task if tolerances were machined properly.On my 039 I put the crank in the deep freeze for a while and parked the bearing near a light bulb. After a few minutes it slipped right on!
Nice to see you are having success. More than one way to skin a cat my friend. -10F/+140F is just an example ...tweek the numbers to fit your freezer. This is not a contest for best or quickest or....... We are all here just sharing information. If a methods fits your situation, run with it. If not, let it go. If you see impending doom or ruining parts, give a fair warning. Have fun in the shop and online.Btw...I do keep my bearings in the freezer but my target temp is 250 f case temp for seating bearings. I can't imagine that this temp has any negative affect on the bearing. ..no worse than the 13k rpm explosions that happen 6" away hehe
Thanks friend but I have a full machine shop, mill, lathe, etc... barely room to walk through the shop! I personally use a light porta power ram to do my pressing or pulling. On another note, any chance you ever get over near Pomfret or Putnam?YES!
I'd like to think we are always striving for better. At this point, if I need to seat bearings I'd probably still heat up the cases and chill the bearings. but this thread is about the 660 kit... and since they already come with bearings installed, i've found a better way to seat the crank....without heat, or cold, or lateral forces... or a hammer (bad around bearings). If you want to keep doing it with heat thats fine... and thats currently the most common method here on the board because specialty tools are just that...specialty. my contention is that specialty tools are not THAT specialty, and they are easy to make... and have zero risk of buggary ... AND i have a guide on youtube on how to do it.
I'm going to do a 372 hutzl as soon as it shows up at my door in a day or two. the crank install will be nearly identical to the 660 and I will use tools for both sides of the crank.
I'll extend this offer, if you want to build other saws, let me know and I'll ship you down a set of tools to try ... just ship them back when done, or ship them on to the next guy that's building a kit....
Here's a quick 660 vid
Is the crank centered in the case?is it just me or is anyone else having an issue with the crankshaft? it's like they did not take enough off the counterweights and a nub by the rod bearing, first a nub on the flywheel side was hitting the case, i filed it down so i was good to go, now BDC i (i think) can her the skirt scraping the counterweights.
when i get home tonight i'm going to send huztl a message with some measurements to see if i can get a new one on the way.. i wish i had a lathe just to to cut a mm or two off it and be done with it.
Always on the 56mm's...You might also consider the possibility of the skirt kissing the gasket. Others have occasionally had to touch up parts that interfered and noted it on here or YT. Definitely a find and fix situation before test run.
Thanks friend but I have a full machine shop, mill, lathe, etc... barely room to walk through the shop! I personally use a light porta power ram to do my pressing or pulling. On another note, any chance you ever get over near Pomfret or Putnam?
Wise words, the two things I see is sharing info and having fun. Well said my friend, well said!Nice to see you are having success. More than one way to skin a cat my friend. -10F/+140F is just an example ...tweek the numbers to fit your freezer. This is not a contest for best or quickest or....... We are all here just sharing information. If a methods fits your situation, run with it. If not, let it go. If you see impending doom or ruining parts, give a fair warning. Have fun in the shop and online.
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