Huztl MS660

[Bedford T]

And you need a short 10mm bolt with washer to seal the decompression valve hole

 

[Bedford T]

You have a place that carries a lot of the special tools I think it's called DK plant. The screw I mentioned and the rubber strips would be cheap to get from them or your dealer

 

[Chris3558]

Bedford T, where did you get your vacuum tester? Did it come with all the necessary fittings?

 

[Bedford T]

decomp plug is 4421 025 2200 fills the decomp valve hole
seal plate 0000 855 8106 rubber strip
carb flange that covers the the intake 5910 850 4200 you attach your air hose to
exhaust block off adapter is 1122 145 1200 shaped like the muffler gasket and use the same screws that hold the muffler on

less than $50
+
what ever you can get by with for the gun and you are loaded for bear

 

[Bedford T]

Bedford T, where did you get your vacuum tester? Did it come with all the necessary fittings?

ebay, yes sir except the items i just listed. i think the cats meow is the mityvac 8500, but there are others.

 

[67L36Driver]

Evening all,

I've built my Farmertec MS660 up, ran it for a few tanks and thought I'd take it to bits to make sure all is well.

I did this as I was having to richen the low speed adjustment to get it to idle so much that I was to 2 turns out, thought something is not right. Was still revving and cutting nicely but dying when off the throttle and needing half choke to run again.

I took the pot off and unfortunately it's starting to get some score marks on both the intake and exhaust side. The piston has survived except some heavy abrasion marks about 1/8th of an inch from the bottom of the intake skirt... Possibly catching the gasket.. As I write this I think I might have the gasket in the wrong way up. I'll get some pictures tomorrow as it's nearly midnight as I type.

The top of the piston is coated in a film of oil as is the bore, the crank/bottom end seems a bit dry.....

I've never built a saw, just replaced pistons and such. I think I may have botched the crank seal picture included.

So please help.

1. Which way does the cylinder gasket go up?

2. Does the crank seal look correctly seated?

3. Should the case behind the clutch and such be coated in a black oily residue as it is in the pictures as well? I assume this may be a leaky crank seal?

Thank you to all.

AshView attachment 544177 View attachment 544190

Raise the metering lever a tad. 1/64"

 

[James P Ryan]

to keep from mis-installing the seal, wrap 1 turn of .003 or there abouts shim stock around the shaft so that it eases the seal over the step. after its over the step you can remove the shim stock. not doing this will drop the spring nearly every time.

 

[Ash UK Chopper]

I've removed the seal and the spring was sat in the bearing....as suspected from people's replies!

New seal en route. Looking at shim stock... Maybe Ptfe tape wrapped over the lip might help

 

[LegDeLimber]

Grab a bottle of drinking water and cut a section from it.
Now wrap it around the shaft. Use some tape to hold the plastic in the round tube shape.
It works if you have the plastic long enough to allow the tape to be above/away from where the seal needs to slide over the shaft.

PTFE tape tends to shred, lengthwise, so I would be concerned with the stringy dingle berries that would likely leave behind.

 

[Ash UK Chopper]

PTFE tape tends to shred, lengthwise, so I would be concerned with the stringy dingle berries that would likely leave behind.

Ha ha, dingle berrys would not be beneficial to prime engine running conditions then I assume!

 

[Ozhoo]

Beer cans are the bees knees for shim stock during seal installs

 

[Hydro74]

I have noticed in my last batch of the 660 kits (3) the casings aren't the same as the previous kits. The earlier ones had the ailment pins in casings that could slip out into the clutch side causing damage to the clutch side there is a vid on YouTube somewhere explaining this which is now a great upgrade but I have discovered that the chain brake mechanism isn't working on all three kits I had to resort to ordering the oem stihl part

It seemed that huztl part would almost over extend when engaging it to the lock position and then when pulling the chain brake handle back it would not disengage it without putting a small screwdriver in between the lever to help it unlock


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[Bedford T]

So are you saying you need a bushing to realign it. Maybe just a washer?

 

[Hydro74]

Here's the video explaining the casing pin issue.



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[Hydro74]

Honestly I can't figure it out the older casings like the ones in the video work fine with the lever mentioned but the newer upgraded casing just doesn't seem to work I even have three different type of huztl levers and all three don't work but they did on the older cases, but if I slap an oem lever on the current cases no problems?!...


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[davhul]

Hope the new casting isn't a few thousands off for pin location

 

[Ozhoo]

Here's the latest case sans exposed pin

 

[Hydro74]

Yep those are the current cases the pin on the old cases that would fall out is located at 6 o clock in the above picture I made a habit of putting some epoxy over the top of it to ensure it would move outward


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[Ozhoo]

I peen it with a small punch.

 

[Bedford T]

If these cases are different are you sure they are still magnesium? did anyone measure the pin to see if there was enough variation to cause this problem? that was very destructive. enough where the peen and some epoxy might be in order for piece of mind