Huztl MS660

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I do not recommend using an oven. You are likely to blister the finish on the entire case.

I've never used an oven or freezer on my two 044/046 rebuilds and everything went together easily. I used a press on the bearings and a socket and a large washer on the crank seals. It was a little hard to get the cases together but I let the screws pull the halves together. Now a case splitter would have been nice to have. I may either build one or buy one when farmertec comes out with the new ones .


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ok fellas how would you like to have stihl tools at dealers cost plus some number maybe 25%. the tools on ebay have a 100% mark up and if we want to build saws we need affordable tools. so lets take the a look at how much actual interest there is in these tools if they were priced with a small markup and i will work my magic and see what we can do about buying them. i encourage you to call your dealer with the same part numbers you send me. you should buy local if you can and if not we will have the group.

lets do some comparisons and make building saws affordable.

we need to pull the cases part and these two tools would take care of splitting and pulling them together. big saws, little saws
i found on ebay
5910-007-2201 selling for 222 shipped quick. how would 125$ for the stihl tool sound and then the 7 or 12$ priority shipping boxes depending on size etc. on that one tool it would save you enough money to almost buy the other side

5910-007-2222 selling for 222 shipped quick and i think we can get it for about the same cost 125$ and handle shipping the same way.
there are others that we can do better on too.

carb tools? flanges, flywheel pullers exhaust block offs
5910 850 4200 this flange is for the pressure test on a 660 and others. i paid 10$ at my dealer and its on the internet for 38$
5910-890-4501 this does its best work working hoses off barbs and limiter caps 24.5 on internet 14$

so if you would like to make a list of the stihl tools you are interested in and their part number, put the most wanted tools at the top of your list. if you can not find the p# a photo of the tool is ok and send it to me in a pm. i will see if we can make a one time group purchase and see where it goes. there might need to be some limitation and but maybe not. i will work on it and notify you. this could fall flat on its face, and on the other hand i might be able to pull it off. it would be sweet

i will use the messages i get until sunday 1/1/17 evening midnight to work with. give me a week to put something together, next Saturday 1/7/17 should give me enough time. also call your local dealer with the parts list and get their price. tips call all the dealers in your area start with gold dealer. ask for parts dont beg just or beat around bush read off the part number and ask for a price do no ask for the last tool above they will tell you NO not anything to do with carbs
No.
 
Thanks Trboxman, the pics are a big help. Have any of you had issues with the chain brake handle? Pushing it forward to lock the clutch, mine handle would hit the muffler before engaging. Its like the thru slot in the handle ear is wider than it should be?

I had the same issue, bought a genuine stihl link arm, the bit that has a chain link side plate as part of it. Solved the problem.

If you go back about 6 pages you'll see discussion about the castings been slightly off possibly causing this issue.

I think you're the third person I know of including me having this problem....

It's a ten quid part and makes the brake snappy again!
 
My first post here, hello all, I tried my hand at assembling one of these hutzl 660's, having been disappointed with the power of a new 391 decided to sell it and try the hutzl, a few things I ran into (not a saw expert)
1.noticed a mysterious hole in casing at the gasket line, (didnt know if should be there or not.. ends up NOT, it looked finished)
It was the reason the bar oil leaked out to half full, its now patched with rtv.
2.The flywheel didnt seem to mate tight enough . (ended up shearing the key soon after), fixed second time used better key and lapped with compound.
3. chain/sprocket cover needed to be counter bored,( slung the chain off before I realized)
4. trigger didnt hold choke closed enough to get it started, (had to crack open handle and bugger up the linkage a little to get it to close choke enough)
5. Once started, it wouldnt turn off! (kill switch didnt kill, had to add a button on side of plastic)
6. Decompression button lost its cap first use. (now its capless hopefully doesnt drop down in cylinder)
7. Guard did not engage chain brake, ran out of travel, (redneck fix, added a steel rivet to slot in guard to shorten travel, now works)

Measured squish with gasket at .040.
I was in a hurry and did not chamfer port openings, assembled as soon as it arrived , didnt have any long carbide cutters, and exhaust port snagged ring on the second tank of fuel! on a good note, it was a beast, 25" bar buried in oak just eating away.
Hutzl sending replacements. Meantime, Meteor piston and cylinder kit just arrived and seems much better on port chamfers, rings and clips look better too.


Any advice , should i try to clean up the new meteor cylinder?



20161226_090926.jpg 20161226_094144.jpg
 
I don't think I seen quite that much trouble. Sorry for that. Sounds like you turned it around
 
I touched up all the intake a exhaust ports on all my kits. Only one had an exhaust port edge that looked like it might catch a ring until I filed it down.
 
What's the best way to file those edges down for someone that doesn't have one of those close quarter right angle die grinders?
 
I sent a pic of some Needle file options, they are curved and with a little patience do a decent job deburring. I ran into the same issue on my chain brake. You push it forward and it hits handle hits the muffler before it engages.
 

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I doubt you have the same problems with your new cylinder. I also had a problem much like yours. My rings were not involved just a piece of broken metal in about the same place.

I be willing to venture to say some 250 then 400 sandpaper rinse it with some fuel mix and you will be ready to go. Meteor is well regarded for a reason
 
I had the same issue, bought a genuine stihl link arm, the bit that has a chain link side plate as part of it. Solved the problem.

If you go back about 6 pages you'll see discussion about the castings been slightly off possibly causing this issue.

I think you're the third person I know of including me having this problem....

It's a ten quid part and makes the brake snappy again!

Just got my chain brake on and am having issues as well!
 
I also had issues with chain brake handle hitting muffler. But it was on the 56mm kit. Filed handle where it was hitting and now all ok.


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Thanks for everyones help, I found one edge that had a nick in it on the intake port of the meteor, stoned and sanded and cleaned up any casting lines , Overall much better quality to my eye than the hutzl understandably. Installed it without a gasket and cycling by hand I heard a "tink,,,, tink" as it came to TDC, so had to install the gasket and the squish measures .66 mm,.025,the hutzl cylinder it measured around .040 or so.
Heres the cylinder installed , note the short circuit button added , other side is the rivet added to allow the brake to work.20170104_182821.jpg 20170104_183129.jpg If anyone has both I'd like to see the linkage difference between the original stihl and the hutzl, I assumed the geometry flaw was in the guard slot.
 

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