Huztle MS361

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Seriously I don't mean to sound sarcastic but these kits sound like a lot of problems for what you end up with. I'd rather spend the money on used or if it had to be new, wouldn't a new Echo cs590 be worth another $200 for being assembled, a decent warranty, parts availability, and parts u can count on to work without having to correct poor manufacturing flaws.
 
It's not just about getting a saw (IMHO). It's about the process.

Could be $300 you spend on a self paced class on chainsaw assembly. Could also help you understand / appreciate what makes a better saw better.

Philbert

That's one of the things that many folks are overlooking, a lot of the guys building these are learning as we go. There are a few that are seasoned saw mechanics, but I know of several who are not. I mechanic'd on cars, trucks, jeeps and tractors for years but one of these kits was my very first experience with working on a 2 stroke.

Many of the issues and problems folks have encountered have been lack of experience, some has been lack of engineering execution by the manufacturer and some aren't clear as to whether it's user or maker at fault.
 
That's one of the things that many folks are overlooking, a lot of the guys building these are learning as we go. There are a few that are seasoned saw mechanics, but I know of several who are not. I mechanic'd on cars, trucks, jeeps and tractors for years but one of these kits was my very first experience with working on a 2 stroke.

Many of the issues and problems folks have encountered have been lack of experience, some has been lack of engineering execution by the manufacturer and some aren't clear as to whether it's user or maker at fault.
You summed it up nicely. I've worked on my fair share of vehicles and light 2 stroke maintenance, but this is my first experience doing major work on a saw involving the piston and crankcase. I got the kit because I wanted to learn more about saws. I figure if I need to screw up learning how to do something, it might as well be on something parts are pretty cheap for, and something that I don't feel bad about if I mess up.
 
I think I'd like those kits better if the crankcase came assembled . . .

Disagree. With the poor quality control, I would want the ability to carefully inspect all of the parts, and the opportunity to correct them (clean up or ask for replacement).

Plus, there is the assembly experience.

Philbert
 
Disagree. With the poor quality control, I would want the ability to carefully inspect all of the parts, and the opportunity to correct them (clean up or ask for replacement).

Plus, there is the assembly experience.

Philbert
I thought most of their "quality control" problems was missing parts. With all the saws I've worked on lately I think I'd rather someone else have the "experience."
 
I thought most of their "quality control" problems was missing parts. With all the saws I've worked on lately I think I'd rather someone else have the "experience."
Not for me. Out of the whole kit so far, all I have been missing is a measly circlip. I can't complain. As for experience, I don't mind assembling the crankcases, but I wish they would leave out the pre-installed oil seals.
 
Not for me. Out of the whole kit so far, all I have been missing is a measly circlip. I can't complain. As for experience, I don't mind assembling the crankcases, but I wish they would leave out the pre-installed oil seals.
I suppose you have to freeze the crank to get it to fit into the bearings? I've bought piston/cylinder kits from them that sometimes had the circlips missing also.
 
I suppose you have to freeze the crank to get it to fit into the bearings? I've bought piston/cylinder kits from them that sometimes had the circlips missing also.
Forget freezing you need controlled heat. A heat gun and a laser temp gun to measure the temp. Heat the area to 250f and it will slip in
 
Better than I thought on the shipping and 13 days not long either. I'm still contemplating on buying one but haven't figured out which one yet.
Yes, I did have to freeze the crank, and I heated the cases. It goes in fine, but the oil seal are a bit tricky. As for which you should buy, they just came out with ms440 kit so that may be a fun one to do. Little more expensive, but I think it is worth it. Had it come out sooner, I would have gotten it instead of then the 361
 
Are you saying you tried it both ways and that's the only way it worked? I did not freeze the one side I did. Read the 660 thread and you can find others just. Freezing introduces moisture into the plastic bearings
 
Don't get the heat to close to the cage in the bearing. It's plastic and that would be bad don't want to melt or deform it
 
Are you saying you tried it both ways and that's the only way it worked? I did not freeze the one side I did. Read the 660 thread and you can find others just. Freezing introduces moisture into the plastic bearings
I initially used the frozen crank and heated case technique. However, after screwing around with the one oil seal (crank was room temp, other case half was heated), I agree that needing to cool down the crank is unnecessary. I was unable to tell the difference between sliding the crank in frozen vs at room temp.
 
Other than It was wet? Remember we are writing for the world and those that come behind us. No disrespect intended
 
I like to freeze the crank and heat the case halves. I heat the cases in my kitchen oven for about 20 minutes at 270F. It is important to preheat to 270F before you put the cases in. If you don't preheat, the cases surfaces most likely will get too hot as the oven is coming up to temperature.

I have been installing the cranks with the seals installed on the AM kits. Turning the crank as it goes into the bearings along with the condensation on the crankshaft allows the seal to slip over the crankshaft without pinching. Works every time for me.
 

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