Huztle MS361

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About what one would expect from 60 cc x 20" w/chisel.

Power range feels narrow but the carb needs tuning and the muffler opened up.

How close is the afm cyl porting to the oem cyl? I loved how the oem ran muffler modded and hated the one I ran with no muffler mod.

Your muffler opened up? Never mind see you said opened up. ;)
 
Carb is still giving me fits. It won't pump fuel enuff to feed the metering chamber.

Metering lever is where it's supposed to be. Lever spring feels over stiff but I've nothing to compare it to.

The Mylar pump diaphragm is not helping either. Stiff!
 
So looks like an OEM carb kit would be a good idea?


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So looks like an OEM carb kit would be a good idea?


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True but only if it contained a metering lever spring. Most don't.

Subbed in a spring from a Farm Boss Walbro HD.

If the chink carb is a clone of that even.
We really don't know.[emoji15]

I'll check my local OPE place for a rubber pump side diaphragm tomorrow.
 
Wouldn't a k20 wat have all the parts for it? Get those from Walbro for $10. The 290 stihl carb kits I got last week did not have the spring. That made me wish I had gone with the k20.


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Just received my 361 kit today, I can't find in the ipl what screws are used to pull the case halves together, it also mentions a number of pins, and also notched pins, I have no idea what these are??
 
It appears as though the pins are already installed, did anyone find a trick to installing the round rubber stops to the cases, I swear the hole is to small

Put case halves in the oven for 20 minutes at 275. Cut the heads off three 5mm x 2 1/2" screws for guide pins. Slot the ends with your hack saw for screwdriver.

Crank assembly in zip lock bag in freezer ice maker. Polish bearing surface with 400-600 grit paper. Smear with a light coat of grease.

Should drop right in. But be ready with plastic hammer.

Don't forget the gasket!

Slice a bit off the rubber stop with your Xacto knife, two small flats at 180 degrees. Helps a lot! So does a bit of silicon spray lube.
 
Since the carb is giving me the most trouble, hindsight being 20-20, I'd disassemble and inspect the carb.
Mine had the wrong (stiff!!) metering lever spring.

Consider replacing the pump diaphragm with a rubber fabric type.
 
The ipl I have dowdy mention the length of screws for each location? Got the case halves and crank together last night.
I used the heat method, however the crank does not rotate freely!
Tap it on the ends with a soft face hammer to center it just dont use a heavy steal hammer and wreck it.
 
Another chink comp release failed.
e7d51b31c291afdb6aa4d725f96c1e52.jpg

I removed it immediately and it was no effort at all to remove the 'stem'.
0b6c20677a9f0bf0c3b76af9c8ef2b89.jpg


Yikes!!

Visit my Stihl dealer tomorrow.
 
Tap it on the ends with a soft face hammer to center it just dont use a heavy steal hammer and wreck it.[/QUOTE

I gave it a light tap with a steel hammer I had in hand, how hard do you need to tap it?
It does feel better however still not rotating as free I think it should.

Also how does one go about getting this media cat thing
 
Hi guys
I've been looking on ebay and doing searches for these complete kits but no luck. Can anybody point me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 365 husky copy.

Thanks

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OEM Stihl comp release on the left.
351983a6cb09acdca812acfa24f69cd0.jpg


Notice two things:
The button is crimped (melted on?) to the stem.
The bleed port is lots smaller and only one. The chink valve ports (two) are huge.

$13.50 out the door at Jack Horner's Machinery.
 

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