I am a moron!!!!

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coyote556

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Well, about 30 minutes ago, I managed to really mess up my 066. I was taking the clutch off and I guess I was using the wrong piston stop, because as I was applying pressure to the clutch, to get it off, the piston stop punched a whole through the top of my perfectly good piston. :angry: :angry: Now I have a saw with a junk top end. Guess I should have used the rope down the cylinder instead of the piston stop I had. It has been a while (about 9 years) since I took the clutch off of any saw, much less my 066. Guess I have forgotten what I am doing. I had to come inside, too :angry: mad to say out in the shop. :angry:
 
Just think of it as a custom porting job. You've altered the compression ratio to obtain maximum volume from a fully closed cylinder. :) Heck, you might even start charging for it.
 
I have a question to ask. THe piston stop i should have used is the rubber one that goes through the exhaust and intake ports, correct? Also, the clutch is backward thread, correct? thanks for sharing experience
 
If the screw in piston stop is too short, it alters the angle that the rod is sitting relative to the crank. The leverage and the pressure on the piston changes depending on rod angle. The nearer to tdc the greater risk for piston damage. If the crank pin is 90 degrees from the center line of the bore, there is the least risk of damage.
 
coyote556 said:
I have a question to ask. THe piston stop i should have used is the rubber one that goes through the exhaust and intake ports, correct? Also, the clutch is backward thread, correct? thanks for sharing experience

It's and angled plastic (not rubber) stop , goes in through the spark plug hole and it doesn't screw in... Stihl calls it a "Locking Strip" part number 0000 893 5903. Very cheap from a dealer.

Yes,the clutch is reverse thread, and you need a 19mm wrench.
 
That is a sad story, but someting like that happens to all of us sooner or later. Try to think of all the victories you have had and money you have saved on other projects!
 
well, i dont know if my piston stop was too short or not. its about an inch or so past the threads in length. i also did not understand how it happened. i talked to a guy today that said he tears them down the same way and he told me he has even beat on his wrench to bust the clutch loose. yes this is the saw with the cracked case. i was tearing it down in prep for replacing the side of the case. thanks for all the good tips guys.
 
Funny; I just bought a piston stop from our local Huskie dealer. It is screw-in , all metal. Dealer told me to get the piston all the way down, screw in the stop and then pull the cord until it met resistance. I then plan to take the clutch off clockwise to replace the sprocket. Does this sound right? Is there anything else I should know. I assume he got the stop through Husqvarna. Thanks for any help. Paul F B
 
well, i dont know about your husky, or about which stop you have, but that is basiclly exactly what i did. i screwed the stop all the way in, turned the cutch nut till resistance, and started applying a lot of pressure to my wrench. all of the sudden, the resistance gave a little, i took the stop out, shined a light in the hole, and "crap" the rest is history.
 
Rope is your friend because it doesn't concentrate pressure in one place.  Turn the clutch forward until the piston closes all the cylinder ports but doesn't yet come to the top, then stuff some starter cord (or similar) in the plug hole; as much as you can.

Yes, the clutch comes off spinning the same direction as the crank does when the engine is running forward.  The clutch will always try to tighten itself under load.

In the case mentioned in this thread, the piston <i>might</i> have been compromised beforehand, but the concentration of pressure did it in in any event.

Glen
 
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