I am a moron!!!!

[victorytea]

Coyote, I just changed my sprocket using a rope with knots tied at 1 inch intervals. It worked well and ,thanks to your post, I didn't run the risk of punching a hole in the piston.
I did notice the top of the piston was char colored and wonder if this is an indication of running the saw (346) too rich. Thanks again for your timely post, I hope you can riht your saw without too much expense. To others, I have a metal piston stop for sale. Paul F B

 

[Lawn Masters]

I have a starter rope from something or other that went boom, and the rope works well for me. I left the pull handle on so I had something to gently pull the rope out with. works like a charm, I just need the impact wrench to do it faster.

 

[Lakeside53]

I don't know if I missed something here (somewhat new to the politics dynamics of this site), but there seems to be an adversion to doing it the way Stihl tells you... and for about $3.50, seems to me that the use of anything else is just asking for trouble.... Why use a "Husky" or whatever screw-in stop, and worry about the "right length" or end shape when the right way is just a Stihl flat (big area) plastic tip on a nice simple tool that works well...

I'd bet the reason that the piston punched though was just due to the extreme pressure point contact on the edge of the screw-in stop.

????

 

[Dadatwins]

I don't know if I missed something here (somewhat new to the politics dynamics of this site), but there seems to be an adversion to doing it the way Stihl tells you... and for about $3.50, seems to me that the use of anything else is just asking for trouble.... Why use a "Husky" or whatever screw-in stop, and worry about the "right length" or end shape when the right way is just a Stihl flat (big area) plastic tip on a nice simple tool that works well...



????

Not an adversion to the 'Stihl Way' just a lot of folks who work on these things after they have had a few hundred hours of use on them and do not come apart as easily as a brand new saw off the shelf. I have had the plastic piston stops break off in some saws and now use the rope method also.
To custom hole in the piston owner, when you do put the new piston/rings in make sure you get any broken metal pieces out of the crankcase area before reassembly or you will really kick yourself. Good luck.

 

[Lakeside53]

Not an adversion to the 'Stihl Way' just a lot of folks who work on these things after they have had a few hundred hours of use on them and do not come apart as easily as a brand new saw off the shelf. I have had the plastic piston stops break off in some saws and now use the rope method also.
To custom hole in the piston owner, when you do put the new piston/rings in make sure you get any broken metal pieces out of the crankcase area before reassembly or you will really kick yourself. Good luck.

In case it matters - the correct plastic Stihl part for an 066 is a "locking strip", not a screw-in stop. Yes, I've broken Stihl plastic screw-in stops by using them on the wrong saw (angled verses straight plug alignment), but you can't break the locking strip - it's just a flat 1/4 inch 4 thick bar of tough Nylon that sgets squeezed between the piston and head. Maybe I shouldn't say "can't", but I haven't to date and I've had some mean clutches to get off.

 

[sedanman]

Stuff that plastic 'locking strip' in an 041 or a TS-760 and it will snap like a twig. You CAN break the plastic locking strip. I own a STIHL METAL screw in piston stop (don't use it much). And yes, even the plastic locking strip can ventilate a piston. I'm Stihl silver certified and my preffered method is to use starter cord and hand tools. To each his own.

 

[Al Smith]

What,pray tell,is a Stihl silver certified .Certainly not the school of shade tree mechanics I went to.

 

[oldsaw]

Thats why I stuff rope into the spark plug hole

rope isn't going to hurt anything, first because it is soft, and second, because you are distributing the pressure over more of the piston.

Yes, its a left handed thread.

 

[sedanman]

AL, basically not quite a guru in the eyes of Stihl. A few factory schools. The big deal is Gold, 4 days in Va Beach at the factory and time spent in the emissions lab.

 

[coyote556]

i never thought this post would generate this much interest. i will have to again say thanks to all who have posted. if anyone is wondering, the clutch never did come loose before punching a hole in the piston. this is the same saw that needs the clutch side case half. that is why i was dissembling. the sad story is the piston was in GREAT shap. still had factory cross lines and everything. i guess we win some and loose some. I just hope i can get it going without too much money. right now i am trying to decide between a used pistion and just buying a new one.

 

[Lakeside53]

Sure, everyone to their own devices, but the inexperienced should at least look at the manufacturers solution.

So on the breakage issue, but more to the point : can you break it in an 066?

Not suprised you can break it in an 760 - the correct stop for a TS760 is a steel screw-in 1117-191-1200, not the plastic locking strip.

Maybe I'm an little over indulgent in Stihl solutions, but they haven't let me own unless I can be bothered to look for or use the right part in my tool box... and sometime I don't. Hey, I even use rope now and then, but the plastic insert works so well (and quickly) on the select saws it's designed for...

 

[Fish]

One really isn't respected ,unless they are Platinum certified................
You have to date one of the Stihl family's ugly nieces for a year.

 

[Fish]

To be Gold certified for Husqvarna, you have to work a week in their factory in Louisiana, spray painting their saws Orange.

 

[Jacob J.]

Coyote556- if you know someone handy with a TIG welder, your piston can be saved. It would have to be someone knowledgeable, so as they don't warp the piston out of shape with too much heat, but a hole in the crown of a piston can be heli-arced back into shape. They would also have to use a minimum amount of filler so the piston won't be too heavy after the repair.

 

[coyote556]

i appreciate the info, but i really dont know anyone with that type of knowledge or equipment, i think ill just buy a piston.

 

[Swannie]

coyote556, if you want to attempt a weld repair on your piston I would be glad to give it a try and send it back to you no charge. (consider this part of the pay it forward thread) Don't know what part of the midwest your at but I am close to the Springfield, MO. area. PM me if you wish to proceed.
Jacob any recomendation on filler mat'l, I keep 5356 and 4043 on hand. While the 4043 is a lower strength alloy my experience is that it helps to prevent distortion of finished parts.

 

[coyote556]

Swannie,

I really appreciate the offer, however i think i am just going to put a new piston in. thanks again for the offer.

 

[MasterBlaster]

I love the title of this thread, it cracks me up every time I read it.

 

[Crofter]

You mean Butch,like some of the ones who really are, don't admit to it!

 

[Al Smith]

Well,it could have been"sh==,er,that is ,things happen",because they really do.