I am new here and to chainsaws

[singinwoodwackr]

OMG. No.

That's a pretty residential looking location. The fire dept will be along shortly, putting out the fire and handing out tickets, too.

Party poop..

 

[Lightning Performance]

OMG. No.

That's a pretty residential looking location. The fire dept will be along shortly, putting out the fire and handing out tickets, too.

If it's lit it won't smoke. Grab the garden hose and enjoy. My area they use a leaf blower and we don't burn near fences or homes. The barrel gets hot and nothing comes out once that fuel oil soaks in the wood. It takes a day or two. Many come back later as it dries more. Grinders are everywhere here and fairly cheap 100-200 24" stumps.

 

[Asere]

Will the Bradford pear keep growing from the roots that extended one the trunk/stump is removed/ killed?

 

[pdqdl]

Unlikely, particularly if the stump is ground. Some trees are more prone to sprouting than others. Crabapple trees are notorious for their tendency to sprout. Callery pear trees are not.

If you are only worried about the tree not returning, and don't care about the presence of the stump, cut it low to the ground, and don't worry about it. If it grows some sprouts, they can easily be killed with a herbicide or a hatchet.

If you really want the stump gone, pay a contractor a nominal price to grind the stump, with the full confidence that it will probably not sprout. If you want all the surface roots chased down and cut out, so as to have a better lawn: go rent a stump grinder. The average grinding surface will hit you pretty hard for chasing roots all over the yard.

Any sprouts that you might get can be killed with dandelion killer herbicide. Or just keep mowing them down.

 

[Asere]

Unlikely, particularly if the stump is ground. Some trees are more prone to sprouting than others. Crabapple trees are notorious for their tendency to sprout. Callery pear trees are not.

If you are only worried about the tree not returning, and don't care about the presence of the stump, cut it low to the ground, and don't worry about it. If it grows some sprouts, they can easily be killed with a herbicide or a hatchet.

If you really want the stump gone, pay a contractor a nominal price to grind the stump, with the full confidence that it will probably not sprout. If you want all the surface roots chased down and cut out, so as to have a better lawn: go rent a stump grinder. The average grinding surface will hit you pretty hard for chasing roots all over the yard.

Any sprouts that you might get can be killed with dandelion killer herbicide. Or just keep mowing them down.

Grinding the stump won't promote grass growth I want the stub killed with chemicals so I can the remove it completely and place soil over it for grass to eventually grow.
As far as the roots that extend above ground or little off springs here and there that I currently see I will dig around them here and there and cut the roots so it no longer connects to the stub that eventually will rot and be removed.
This way there is a better change of nothing growing correct?

 

[pdqdl]

Have a bit more confidence in my advice. I've been running a grounds maintenance company for over 40 years. Among many other services, I grind stumps, I remove the chips, I fill with topsoil, and I plant the grass. Regularly. For my commercial customers that demand results.

All you need to do is grind the stump. Hire a contractor, but insist that they give you a 8" minimum grind depth. Then tell them you will handle the entire cleanup, as you wish to fill with topsoil and plant grass. Most stump grinding contractors will love that comment about "no cleanup needed", and will give you a more favorable rate. You should be able to get that stump ground out professionally for less money than you could rent the grinder, up until you ask a contractor to run all over the yard chasing roots. They don't like that particular request, because the customers tend to be picky nits that are never happy, and it takes a lot of time to chase roots. Hence my suggestions above.

You will spend as little as $75 for that stump to be ground up in my area, but many guys are looking for victims with deep pockets and no sense. Shopping around will be important: be sure you can tell them the widest dimension on the stump where it meets the soil. In inches. And you need to make sure you are exactly correct. They will also charge you extra if you leave a tall stump. Make sure you cut it off within two inches of the ground.

Herbicides are not necessary, and might inhibit the growth of your new grass. This website is filled with some pretty contrary and contentious members. If I tell you any misinformation, they'll be sure to pipe in and advise you otherwise if they think I am giving you bad advice.

 

[Asere]

Have a bit more confidence in my advice. I've been running a grounds maintenance company for over 40 years. Among many other services, I grind stumps, I remove the chips, I fill with topsoil, and I plant the grass. Regularly. For my commercial customers that demand results.

All you need to do is grind the stump. Hire a contractor, but insist that they give you a 8" minimum grind depth. Then tell them you will handle the entire cleanup, as you wish to fill with topsoil and plant grass. Most stump grinding contractors will love that comment about "no cleanup needed", and will give you a more favorable rate. You should be able to get that stump ground out professionally for less money than you could rent the grinder, up until you ask a contractor to run all over the yard chasing roots. They don't like that particular request, because the customers tend to be picky nits that are never happy, and it takes a lot of time to chase roots. Hence my suggestions above.

You will spend as little as $75 for that stump to be ground up in my area, but many guys are looking for victims with deep pockets and no sense. Shopping around will be important: be sure you can tell them the widest dimension on the stump where it meets the soil. In inches. And you need to make sure you are exactly correct. They will also charge you extra if you leave a tall stump. Make sure you cut it off within two inches of the ground.

Herbicides are not necessary, and might inhibit the growth of your new grass. This website is filled with some pretty contrary and contentious members. If I tell you any misinformation, they'll be sure to pipe in and advise you otherwise if they think I am giving you bad advice.

I apologize as I know nothing about grind. Basically once it is grinded at least 8" deep I can then remove the rest myself and add soil for sod growth?
Once grinded what happens next in order to place soil?

 

[pdqdl]

Just rake out the wood chips and fill with dirt.

 

[user 172763]

I apologize as I know nothing about grind. Basically once it is grinded at least 8" deep I can then remove the rest myself and add soil for sod growth?
Once grinded what happens next in order to place soil?

Trying to rot a stump that size with chemicals will take forever. Look on Facebook marketplace for Stump Grinders. Tell them you want it ground below grade. I had a guy do 3 stumps from trees I cut for $400. Two were about 24" and one was about 36". I tipped him an extra 10% because he chased the roots about 3ft. from the stump. I would have been happy if he just made sure he cut the roots away from the base. The rest I hooked a chain around and pulled them out with the truck,.
The only way you will completely remove the entire thing is hire someone with a backhoe, but it looks like that may be an irrigation cover in the yard.
There's no way I would attempt that with a pole saw, if you do, please post pictures as you progress.

 

[Asere]

Grinding kills the stump then?

 

[user 172763]

Everything underground will eventually rot. You may have to add sand or top soil to the area as it rots, I would suggest doing that during late winter. It will take years, but you won't see it.

 

[user 188535]

Hello, I am here because I need to cut down a tree in my lawn that is 23 years old and recently some limbs have broken off.
I have been looking at Husqvarna 445, 450 and 455 chainsaws.
Are any of these chainsaws overkill for one tree that's around 20" round?

Hire someone. You must understand that a chainsaw is not as plug-and-play as a weed wacker or blower. Don't get hurt.

 

[user 188535]

OMG. No.

That's a pretty residential looking location. The fire dept will be along shortly, putting out the fire and handing out tickets, too.

That happened to me. I was outside burning woodworking scraps and junk wood with my dad when 2 big firetrucks pulled up and everyone piled out and told us they got a call about an "uncontrolled brush fire" and then told us to pull the hose out and put it near the fire and then left angrily at the fact that they just wasted their time. The dude who called was a man who was a little weasel who got mad at my dad for telling him to stop speeding, and then he ratted him out to the pool board for waving back at his wife on the 4th of July parade.

 

[tJKrider]

Welcome and good luck with your project. You have already received some good advice!

 

[user 172763]

Here are two I took down and ground the stumps about 5 years after this picture was taken and the grass about a year after that. Two different angles.

 

[Asere]

Here is the progress. Today I cut down more limbs with a 10" saw.
I plan on cutting the rest down by next bulk pick up.
After that I will either rent a chainsaw to take the trunk down and then pay to get it grinded at leat 8" deep or may pay to have the trunk taken down and grind it. Slow but making progress.
Here is a current pic. See the little trees growing around the tree? This likely robbed my grass of water and nutrients on those dead areas.

 

[Asere]

I just got a quote. He will take the entire tree down, grind the stump 6" deep and place chemical. Will cut the tree in pieces for firewood. All for $375.
Is this descent?

 

[user 172763]

Don't really think you need the chemical, then you can work on the roots and digging them up, but yeah, I would go for it. Not sure how that Bradford Pear burns, someone else will have to chime on on that one.

 

[Asere]

Don't really think you need the chemical, then you can work on the roots and digging them up, but yeah, I would go for it. Not sure how that Bradford Pear burns, someone else will have to chime on on that one.

Yeah, he said chemical isn't needed but will throw it in.

 

[user 172763]

Just concerned on what it will do to you grass root system? Let it rot naturally.