I broke my MS440 Crankshaft. Now What?

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Alphadelta

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So suffice to say. I’m a moron.

The wound is still fresh but I managed to while installing the fly wheel nut spin the nut right off the crankshaft. I know. I know. Pro tip : be careful with impact guns. [emoji2357]

I’m now trying to figure out the best route

crankshafts on eBay are cheap, but are they as robust?
Just how many parts do I need to replace the crankshaft?
Do I need to replace anything with the piston or the piston rings (they are in excellent condition)
How fickle are crankcases?

The list goes on. Any advice would be awesome.

While I trust, with enough time and beer I could buy the parts separately Little Red Barn sells the whole crankcase with cylinder already put together for $200. But then I don’t have a STIHL cylinder/piston anymore. Needless to say I’m lost.

Little red barn listing below

http://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/044-engine.htm

Anyone who can point me in the right direction I will
be forever thankful.
 
So suffice to say. I’m a moron.

The wound is still fresh but I managed to while installing the fly wheel nut spin the nut right off the crankshaft. I know. I know. Pro tip : be careful with impact guns. [emoji2357]

I’m now trying to figure out the best route

crankshafts on eBay are cheap, but are they as robust?
Just how many parts do I need to replace the crankshaft?
Do I need to replace anything with the piston or the piston rings (they are in excellent condition)
How fickle are crankcases?

The list goes on. Any advice would be awesome.

While I trust, with enough time and beer I could buy the parts separately Little Red Barn sells the whole crankcase with cylinder already put together for $200. But then I don’t have a STIHL cylinder/piston anymore. Needless to say I’m lost.

Little red barn listing below

http://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/044-engine.htm

Anyone who can point me in the right direction I will
be forever thankful.
I put together a MS 362 that's was completely seized up the poison was scorched crank damaged it was a wreck. I completely rebuilt it with aftermarket parts. Been running it for several years on and off no problems. Runs really great so I wouldn't be very concerned.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
I put together a MS 362 that's was completely seized up the poison was scorched crank damaged it was a wreck. I completely rebuilt it with aftermarket parts. Been running it for several years on and off no problems. Runs really great so I wouldn't be very concerned.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Where did you go for your parts? How long did your rebuild take? And did you reuse crankcase seals?

Last question lol. Do you have to time the flywheel. I saw a thumbnail for a YouTube video but didn’t watch it yet?

And thank you. I feel, slightly better. :)
 
Where did you go for your parts? How long did your rebuild take? And did you reuse crankcase seals?

Last question lol. Do you have to time the flywheel. I saw a thumbnail for a YouTube video but didn’t watch it yet?

And thank you. I feel, slightly better. :)
Hlsupply is a great website to start with. They have about anything you need. The hyway nikisli piston and cylinder are really good. The ports are usually really cut good and clean so I didn't need to do any timing work with mine so far the ones I've rebuilt. Yes unless you have new seals I would replace them because they aren't very expansive so don't chance it. You could do it and a day if you have skills and stick with it and have all your parts. Order the gap tool for your coil that will save you headache of trying to getting it spaced correctly to get fire. Ebay sells case splitters for 25 bucks just have to weld it together. You can make a crankpress tool for installing it with all thread and pipe. I can give you instructions if needed.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
Hlsupply is a great website to start with. They have about anything you need. The hyway nikisli piston and cylinder are really good. The ports are usually really cut good and clean so I didn't need to do any timing work with mine so far the ones I've rebuilt. Yes unless you have new seals I would replace them because they aren't very expansive so don't chance it. You could do it and a day if you have skills and stick with it and have all your parts. Order the gap tool for your coil that will save you headache of trying to getting it spaced correctly to get fire. Ebay sells case splitters for 25 bucks just have to weld it together. You can make a crankpress tool for installing it with all thread and pipe. I can give you instructions if needed.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Alright so far on their site I have the crankcase, with the seals, a new intake boot, and bearings.

I literally just got this saw and even though it’s the dirtiest power tool I’ve ever seen I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder are IMMACULATE.

When you talk about the gap tool, I have a standard feeler gauge that should work right?

And ya any instructions you have I’m all ears.

So those timing wheels do I need that? Or should I be good to go since the flywheel is pinned to the crankshaft, I can’t really change the timing.

Thanks again.
 
Alright so far on their site I have the crankcase, with the seals, a new intake boot, and bearings.

I literally just got this saw and even though it’s the dirtiest power tool I’ve ever seen I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder are IMMACULATE.

When you talk about the gap tool, I have a standard feeler gauge that should work right?

And ya any instructions you have I’m all ears.

So those timing wheels do I need that? Or should I be good to go since the flywheel is pinned to the crankshaft, I can’t really change the timing.

Thanks again.
The gap tool is curved and fits around the fly wheel makes it really easier. But you can do it with a business card sometimes if fitted just right but it's hit and miss.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
Alright so far on their site I have the crankcase, with the seals, a new intake boot, and bearings.

I literally just got this saw and even though it’s the dirtiest power tool I’ve ever seen I pulled the muffler and the piston and cylinder are IMMACULATE.

When you talk about the gap tool, I have a standard feeler gauge that should work right?

And ya any instructions you have I’m all ears.

So those timing wheels do I need that? Or should I be good to go since the flywheel is pinned to the crankshaft, I can’t really change the timing.

Thanks again.
You shouldn't need to worry about timing that's for very skilled builders that do porting stay away from that for the time being until you do a few more builds and do some heavy studying lol

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
You shouldn't need to worry about timing that's for very skilled builders that do porting stay away from that for the time being until you do a few more builds and do some heavy studying lol

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Perfect. The idea of having to do that sounded awful.

Any other parts you would recommend besides their kit, new intake boot, maybe an impulse line?
 
Perfect. The idea of having to do that sounded awful.

Any other parts you would recommend besides their kit, new intake boot, maybe an impulse line?
Yes I'd replace all lines and all the seals while you have it apart, prevent problems later. Did you find a crank? Stay off the impact lol

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A feeler guage will work just dandy. Perhaps you'll have to remove the leaf (leaves) to measure, perhaps you can leave them as a group.

Perfect. I am into this saw $200. And the more stuff I have to buy the harder it becomes to pass it off as a good deal to the better half hahaha.
 
Yes I'd replace all lines and all the seals while you have it apart, prevent problems later. Did you find a crank? Stay off the impact lol

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Yep like you said HL supply sells a kit.

https://www.hlsproparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=H35044-DNS&CartID=1
Ya the impact was so dumb! I didn’t want to stuff rope into the cylinder and I got ahead of myself and zipped it right off.

It’s almost as if they make special wrenches capable of torquing nuts and bolts to precise torque settings. I even own a snap on one.

What’s the saying? Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast?

Alright. Lines. Crankshaft kit. Intake boot.

Oh! Oiler, that is the only part of a chainsaw I’ve never messed with. Given the rest of the saw is doing okay, I shouldn’t need to mess with that right?


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Yep like you said HL supply sells a kit.

https://www.hlsproparts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=H35044-DNS&CartID=1
Ya the impact was so dumb! I didn’t want to stuff rope into the cylinder and I got ahead of myself and zipped it right off.

It’s almost as if they make special wrenches capable of torquing nuts and bolts to precise torque settings. I even own a snap on one.

What’s the saying? Slow is smooth. Smooth is fast?

Alright. Lines. Crankshaft kit. Intake boot.

Oh! Oiler, that is the only part of a chainsaw I’ve never messed with. Given the rest of the saw is doing okay, I shouldn’t need to mess with that right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would replace the lines I've never had any problems with the stihl oiler. I've had saws in my family over 40 yr old and used a lot I mean a lot for years and no problems but that's not to say it won't fail. Sounds like that saw has miles on it so for a few more bucks that's your call...

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
I would replace the lines I've never had any problems with the stihl oiler. I've had saws in my family over 40 yr old and used a lot I mean a lot for years and no problems but that's not to say it won't fail. Sounds like that saw has miles on it so for a few more bucks that's your call...

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Perfect. I’m going to leave my piston and cylinder alone. I’ll buy new rings but other than that. I really need to subscribe to the “don’t fix what ain’t broke” modality.

I’ll get that ordered tonight from them and keep you updated.

If you think of any things else let me know! You’ve been a great help and I really appreciate it.

I would love to know how you made a case splitter. They aren’t as cheap as I expected.


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I would replace the lines I've never had any problems with the stihl oiler. I've had saws in my family over 40 yr old and used a lot I mean a lot for years and no problems but that's not to say it won't fail. Sounds like that saw has miles on it so for a few more bucks that's your call...

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
As the other gentleman mentioned the feeler gauges will work fine, I just mentioned that tool because they don't cost very much and a handy addition to the saw tool kit.

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Perfect. I’m going to leave my piston and cylinder alone. I’ll buy new rings but other than that. I really need to subscribe to the “don’t fix what ain’t broke” modality.

I’ll get that ordered tonight from them and keep you updated.

If you think of any things else let me know! You’ve been a great help and I really appreciate it.

I would love to know how you made a case splitter. They aren’t as cheap as I expected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I thought they use to be 25.00 on eBay but looks like they have gone up. But they aren't too expensive if you can weld the kit together yourself and I'll get the instructions to you for the crank shaft installation tool like I made it works really good. Do you have access to a lathe or someway to drill and tap the ends of a few pieces of all thread. One is right hand and the other left hand threads I think 10 and 12 mm but I'll double check.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk
 
I thought they use to be 25.00 on eBay but looks like they have gone up. But they aren't too expensive if you can weld the kit together yourself and I'll get the instructions to you for the crank shaft installation tool like I made it works really good. Do you have access to a lathe or someway to drill and tap the ends of a few pieces of all thread. One is right hand and the other left hand threads I think 10 and 12 mm but I'll double check.

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe. If the tool is a must have I’ll just bite the bullet and pick one up off eBay. HL Supply is like $90 :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe. If the tool is a must have I’ll just bite the bullet and pick one up off eBay. HL Supply is like $90 :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes it can get expensive fast, especially your first saw but if you plan on working on more it's worth it to have the tools and then it's much easier later on. If you can find a way to drill the all thread that would be a cheap way but either way it's best to have one so you aren't pressing on the bearings and case the wrong way. Let me know if you need anything I'll try to help anyway I can. I enjoy chain saws and working on them.

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A year ago, while removing a flywheel nut with an impact, the threaded portion of the crankshaft spun off. Used cobalt drill bits, tapped the shaft end to 1/4” installed bolt and washer. Saw works like it never even happened.

That will work dandy as you just need some clamping force to hold it on. The shift and flywheel is taperd and seizes up pretty good when the nut is torqued down.
 

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