Will do, time isn't my friend the last year so haven't been doing much saw stuff besides what need to get done for what I need to get firewood. But I plan soon to get on this too
I can square grind with my round grinder
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Khntr85
Addicted to ArboristSite
Are they saying it works as
Good as the traditional Silvey and Simington square grinders
I want to bump this back up to the top.
I am trying to find the answer if this square jig will work with the 520 sharpener. I emailed the company about 2 weeks ago but never heard anything back. So far it’s just a few threads where people say I think it will work on a 520, but no definitive answer. Has anyone here, tried this on anything else besides a 410? It looks like the 520 and 410 have the same clamp but I can’t confirm.
I am trying to find the answer if this square jig will work with the 520 sharpener. I emailed the company about 2 weeks ago but never heard anything back. So far it’s just a few threads where people say I think it will work on a 520, but no definitive answer. Has anyone here, tried this on anything else besides a 410? It looks like the 520 and 410 have the same clamp but I can’t confirm.
So from what I understand anything with that style table will work yes. I'm not endorsed or anything by square jig just a few of us use different grinders and the oregon and oregon knock offs from China like what princess auto for us Canadians or harbor freight, timber tuff with same style table I know guys who use these various grinders and mine is a vevor version of the knock off and the jig fits. I do have an issue with my vevor and it's the grinders design where the handle doesn't positive lock and stay like oregon or timber tuff does there's a design flaw in the clamp system so I have to baby sit mine even with chain. Hope this helps
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I'm not an expert here on this topic but it does work, if you use a stone it does require maitainince to keep the stone upto par but he did recently release a cbn wheel but they are selling like hot cakes and last i checked were on back order, one of the guys i know who has one loves it and works better then dressing your stone and angles obviously don't change compared to dressing a stone. You would have to check his site for what's available for what jig angles
Have not tried it personally.
Only compatibility issues I have read:
- Grinders with self-clamping vises (Oregon 620, Tecomec Super Jolly, etc.) are a problem, because they release the jig each time the grinding head is moved. User would have to come up with a way to override this.
- Some Oregon / Tecomec grinders offer the 10° ‘down angle’ / vise tilt option. Some don’t.
* EDIT: I just learned from the designer that guards / shields on some grinders can interfere with use of the SquareJig device. He recommends the Tecomec Jolly EVO (sliding vise), with the Oregon 410 (tilting vise) as a second choice, for best results. *
If you use this tilt feature to dial in your square grind angles, you need to verify which grinders offer it, and which don't.
Same thing with ‘clone’, and other brands, of grinders.
Philbert
Only compatibility issues I have read:
- Grinders with self-clamping vises (Oregon 620, Tecomec Super Jolly, etc.) are a problem, because they release the jig each time the grinding head is moved. User would have to come up with a way to override this.
- Some Oregon / Tecomec grinders offer the 10° ‘down angle’ / vise tilt option. Some don’t.
* EDIT: I just learned from the designer that guards / shields on some grinders can interfere with use of the SquareJig device. He recommends the Tecomec Jolly EVO (sliding vise), with the Oregon 410 (tilting vise) as a second choice, for best results. *
If you use this tilt feature to dial in your square grind angles, you need to verify which grinders offer it, and which don't.
Same thing with ‘clone’, and other brands, of grinders.
Philbert
Good point!
Ones I do know that offer 10dg tilt
Vevor knock off
Timber Tuff buddy uses
Princessauto knock off
Harbor Freight can't confirm tilt but to fit in chain rail
So, is the 10° vise tilt needed (or desired) for best results with the SquareJig?
Thanks!
Philbert
Thanks!
Philbert
If I had more experience with this topic I could chime in better but with the guys I know personally who have used listed above grinders including the Oregon 410 I would say yes it should be mandatory since there has been a variance in angles needed to get things lined up properly. A couple of us are at 10 dg, a couple others at about 7.5dg so if you were to get the 10dg you should be fine
Am I correct that the difference between the Oregon 410 and the 520 is the size of the motor? So wouldn’t the clamp between the two be the same? Or am I wrong and there are several differences and the machines are different styles, bases, and/or setups?
I want to run a CBN blade so the 410 with the smaller motor might be sufficient and powerful enough with that blade.
I want to run a CBN blade so the 410 with the smaller motor might be sufficient and powerful enough with that blade.
I'm not sure about the differences according to Google your correct on bigger motor and apparently better build quality, but the 410 should bemore then enough to spin the wheel. I use a cbn for my round grind on my vevor grinder and it's rated 230w so vevor claims and no problems. Hopefully that helps
Smaller motor, and the location of some control knobs.
I’ll see if I can link some reviews.
*If you don’t need the vise tilt * or built-in light features, the Tecomec ‘Compact’ (5-3/4” wheels, full amperage motor) is a better grinder for the same $$ as the Oregon 410 / Tecomec EVO. .
If you need the vise tilt feature, then the Tecomec ‘Compact’ is not an option.
Philbert
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/oregon-410-120-chain-sharpener.333055/
As far as I can tell, you need the 10° tilt for best use with the square jig.
410 does not have the fore and aft feature in the horizontal plane of the 520 ( although it is a pain to use due to the location of the locking bolts) the 520 also has a head lock on the left hand side.
*Please see my Post #126, above.*
I thought that the Oregon 410 and Tecomec EVO were identical grinders (Tecomec makes both). But just learned that the Oregon 410 has a tilting vise, while the EVO has a sliding vise.
This is not a big deal for normal, round grinding of chains. But the designer says the EVO design works better with the SquareJig, given a choice.
He also noted that wheel guards on some grinders can cause interference, or limit some adjustments.
So the Tecomec EVO is what he recommends if buying a new grinder for this use. Otherwise, work with what you got.
I keep learning from these threads, and appreciate the input from other participants.
Philbert
I thought that the Oregon 410 and Tecomec EVO were identical grinders (Tecomec makes both). But just learned that the Oregon 410 has a tilting vise, while the EVO has a sliding vise.
This is not a big deal for normal, round grinding of chains. But the designer says the EVO design works better with the SquareJig, given a choice.
He also noted that wheel guards on some grinders can cause interference, or limit some adjustments.
So the Tecomec EVO is what he recommends if buying a new grinder for this use. Otherwise, work with what you got.
I keep learning from these threads, and appreciate the input from other participants.
Philbert
oregon 511ax has both tilt and fore/aft. tecomec under their name does offer that style. ( just looked their whole line). Original problem with vise on the ax has been eliminated in favor of the common vise section across the line.
If you do a lot of chains get some extra head lift springs ( they were about $12) they do break after awhile.
The cam lock ( eccentric ) does wear and become sloppy, the wear is external as well as internal. The stud that the cam spins on wears. Some wear also occurs to the rail at the eccentric contact point. The front and back rails are the same so that can just be turned around.
Me, I just make new parts for my self the cam and the stud. I haven't seen the cam stud offered separately . ( the price of a complete vise assembly is rather dear and I am kinda cheap). happy grinding u-all
If you do a lot of chains get some extra head lift springs ( they were about $12) they do break after awhile.
The cam lock ( eccentric ) does wear and become sloppy, the wear is external as well as internal. The stud that the cam spins on wears. Some wear also occurs to the rail at the eccentric contact point. The front and back rails are the same so that can just be turned around.
Me, I just make new parts for my self the cam and the stud. I haven't seen the cam stud offered separately . ( the price of a complete vise assembly is rather dear and I am kinda cheap). happy grinding u-all
Correction to previous post Tecomec does NOT offer the same grinder in their line as the Oregon 511. The does was supposed to be doesn't. fingers weren't keeping up with brain signals- a somewhat common condition with many.
Who ever says a black cat crossing your path is not bad luck, is full of ----. sump pump went out, 10" cast steel shear broke, bandsaw blade welder upchucked ( took me 2 days to fix that), hub and wheel bearing on my 4x4 went south , no one in town had a hub
in stock 3 days to get one , my computer at home the hard drive went south - haven't fixed that yet and yesterday i must have typed in the wrong amount on a credit card sale $1650.75- should have been $165.74, got that corrected but it took almost an hour on the phone with the credit card processing co. and a person with less than adequate English diction on their end. I think I need to go hide under a big rock for the rest of the week.
Semi quote: Life is a bowl of cherries, but some one beat me to it so all that was left were the pits, but they burn pretty good in the stove.
Who ever says a black cat crossing your path is not bad luck, is full of ----. sump pump went out, 10" cast steel shear broke, bandsaw blade welder upchucked ( took me 2 days to fix that), hub and wheel bearing on my 4x4 went south , no one in town had a hub
in stock 3 days to get one , my computer at home the hard drive went south - haven't fixed that yet and yesterday i must have typed in the wrong amount on a credit card sale $1650.75- should have been $165.74, got that corrected but it took almost an hour on the phone with the credit card processing co. and a person with less than adequate English diction on their end. I think I need to go hide under a big rock for the rest of the week.
Semi quote: Life is a bowl of cherries, but some one beat me to it so all that was left were the pits, but they burn pretty good in the stove.
Ya I can't speak of all the other options out there for grinders except for the ones the folks I personally know use. As mentioned in a previous post I have used 7.5(est) to the full 10dg of tilt and the folks I know with the jig are in the same area of angles with the grinders i mentioned a few posts back, that being said it is definitely a common requirement is the 10 dg forward and backward of tilt as you change cutter side you'll need to tilt it accordingly in the opposite direction. I have a cheap princessauto barely any adjustments with the small wheel and that one I never tried the jig for fitment but that specific grinder the jig would never work in just wven my looking at it for those wonder on the one with the tiny as heck wheel 4 something inch maybe I'm guessing
J.Noss
ArboristSite Lurker
Alright, I've ordered the Tecomec Evo grinder as suggested by the Square-jig folks, (a worthwhile upgrade as for years I've been using a Harbor Freight grinder with the incorrect wheel thickness for both my 3/8" and 325 chain) and I'm pretty interested in trying square chisel on my larger saws..
I've gotten a Oregon chain that is factory square-chisel, but I've heard that their factory grind isn't very impressive and I haven't tried it yet. I wish that there was a way for me to test out a good sharp square chisel chain to see if it's worthwhile to make the switch to and investment in the square-jig.
I can see there's mixed opinions online as to its effectiveness and ability to hold an edge in a variety of woods, I might cut Hickory or dried Locust one day and Poplar or soft maple the next and having 2 different chains/grinds isn't a problem. I'd definitely be getting the square-jig pre-profiled CBN wheel too so I'm not having to rely on my ability to shape the wheels to get a good cut.
Oh well, just thinking out loud here but any input is always appreciated
I've gotten a Oregon chain that is factory square-chisel, but I've heard that their factory grind isn't very impressive and I haven't tried it yet. I wish that there was a way for me to test out a good sharp square chisel chain to see if it's worthwhile to make the switch to and investment in the square-jig.
I can see there's mixed opinions online as to its effectiveness and ability to hold an edge in a variety of woods, I might cut Hickory or dried Locust one day and Poplar or soft maple the next and having 2 different chains/grinds isn't a problem. I'd definitely be getting the square-jig pre-profiled CBN wheel too so I'm not having to rely on my ability to shape the wheels to get a good cut.
Oh well, just thinking out loud here but any input is always appreciated
OK, some general tips on using an Oregon / Tecomec grinder, versus a HF type (copied and pasted, since this comes up so often).
I encourage you to get comfortable sharpening your round ground chains first, with the new grinder, before jumping in on the square ground, on top of that:
“ Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.
For guys new to grinding (or a new grinder) I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:
- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;
- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );
- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);
- profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive;
- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.”
After you are comfortable with your new grinder, address the new jig and chain type.
Philbert
I encourage you to get comfortable sharpening your round ground chains first, with the new grinder, before jumping in on the square ground, on top of that:
“ Keep in mind that grinders don’t sharpen the chains: you sharpen the chains.
For guys new to grinding (or a new grinder) I recommend taking an old or ‘scrap’ chain, and experimenting with it, before you work on your ‘good’ chains:
- ‘play’ with every adjustment on the grinder separately, and see what each does to the cutter profile;
- intentionally try to overheat, or ‘burn’ a cutter, then work backwards to see how to avoid that (lots of small taps, no sustained contact );
- place a sharp chain that you like in the grinder, with the power ‘Off’, and try to ‘copy’ those angles and settings with the grinder adjustment (and write those settings down);
- profile the rim of the grinding wheel, with the dressing brick, then lightly dress the wheel once per chain loop, to continuously expose fresh, sharp, abrasive;
- practice, and don’t worry about speed - that will come with experience.”
After you are comfortable with your new grinder, address the new jig and chain type.
Philbert
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