I found one! Almost..

[dav2no1]

Been looking for a little homeowner saw to chop my branch pile up and do clean up work around the yard. I have a Milwaukee M18 pole saw setup..works great up to 2 1/2" to 3" depending.. But need a real saw. So many junk and worn out ones for sale..or way too much money.

Been reading as much as I can on here to get information on the right saw. My buddy is a tree guy and has tons of saws from over the years. I told him I'm still looking for a saw after he called with Thanksgiving wishes. After a bit he called me back and said he had a Stihl 024 in decent shape..AND I could have it for free! Said it hasn't been started in awhile, but was stored in his dry shed. I'm excited to get it and play with it.

 

[Michael E]

Great "choice"!

There are few things I would check. A saw of this age, that hasn't been used in years, might have a few rubber parts gone bad/hard. If your fuel line is broken and your saw won't start, it's no big deal. But if your crankshaft seals are bad, you will burn up the engine in no time. If you don't know how to work on a saw, have a shop check it out. Or learn to do it yourself.

 

[dav2no1]

Great "choice"!

There are few things I would check. A saw of this age, that hasn't been used in years, might have a few rubber parts gone bad/hard. If your fuel line is broken and your saw won't start, it's no big deal. But if your crankshaft seals are bad, you will burn up the engine in no time. If you don't know how to work on a saw, have a shop check it out. Or learn to do it yourself.

Thanks for the tips. I plan on learning more about this saw. I've downloaded the manual and watched several videos. I already know the oil plug needs to be replaced. I plan on picking it up later today. I plan to look over the saw and inspect it the best I can.

So my next question is, what is the best place to buy parts? Is there fake Stihl parts being sold online? Are generic carbs as good as an oem? I assume the oem carbs are better? And what about carb rebuild kits..Stihl vs generic? I'm gonna have lots of questions moving forward

I am a super moderator on the c10 forum and own 2 classic trucks as well as a newer truck. I was also a Final Assembly Mechanic for the big B airplane company and now a composite fabricator for them..so I do have mechanical knowledge and tools. But this will be my first time messing with a gas saw. Doesn't look too difficult.

Is there a way to know if crankshaft seals are good without tearing it down?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Stick with OEM parts if you can afford them, much easier as they work most often as intended, can`t say that for the cheaper AM parts that may or my not work right out of the package. To check a saw for air tightness a pressure/vac tool is the best option, others cobble up a working option from blood pressure bulbs and some tubing. For myself I have 3 Mighty Vacs, the Mighty Vac 8500 is the better tool I use almost every saw I work on.You will need some occluders and or block off devices for the exhaust port and intake opening.

 

[dav2no1]

Picked it up..ended up giving him $20 and a 6 pack of Kona Big Wave beer.

He did drain all the fuel out, but it's dirty as expected. He said it ran fine when he stored it, with exception of the bar oil cap leaking.




looks like 1991

 

[dav2no1]

Working on getting big stuff loose with long q-tips. Then I'll hit it with some air. And clean the plastic parts for now. Got carb blocked so don't get anything in there.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Good saw to start with. Since you have to pull the muffler to do a vac/pressure test, go ahead and check the piston for scoring. Post a pic if questionable. Also check the screen in the muffler outlet - if it has one. Clogged screens really reduce power.

 

[capetrees]

Working on getting big stuff loose with long q-tips. Then I'll hit it with some air. And clean the plastic parts for now. Got carb blocked so don't get anything in there.

spray it heavy with WD40. It breaks up the old oily sawdust and cuts the sap away. Blow it all off with air.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Doesn`t look too serious,, a good cleanup is the first thing I do with them , while cleaning I can find/see things that need replacing, their fuel delivery lines bend around very tightly under the carb right as it comes through the tank, have found many with cracks in the line in that area, also fuel line rotted off in the tank.

 

[dav2no1]

Doesn`t look too serious,, a good cleanup is the first thing I do with them , while cleaning I can find/see things that need replacing, their fuel delivery lines bend around very tightly under the carb right as it comes through the tank, have found many with cracks in the line in that area, also fuel line rotted off in the tank.

Looks like filter is just rolling around in the tank..

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looks like filter is just rolling around in the tank..
View attachment 1222872

Fuel line gone to goo, fuel sat for a long time in that tank.

 

[dav2no1]

WD40 and some air as suggested. Starting to look better. Will repeat a few times.

I need to pull off the pull start cover. Looks like one screw is attached to the chain brake...is there any surprises behind that screw?

Also I cleaned up the air filter..are these supposed to be reused? And if so..how does one know when to replace it? Air seems to move through it and I can see some daylight soaked it in WD and blew it out several times.

 

[capetrees]

Try to blow out the air filter from the inside, the side around the carb. Don't blow it forcefully from the outside. It just jams the sawdust into the fine filter element. Blowing it from the inside opens those pores and filter spaces.

 

[PV Hiker]

You can take apart the carb, remember how the gaskets go with quick cell phone pictures. If gaskets good can reuse them for now. By doing this you can clean it out making sure it is not gummed up with old bad fuel., spray pathways with carb cleaner. Don't use high compressed air on the carb.

That chain looks like it needs some help filing.

 

[dav2no1]

The bar is a larger size. I'd like to replace the bar and chain with oem.

Is there a difference in fuel lines? I thought I saw a video where the guy used a newer style that had a spring around it?

 

[pioneerguy600]

The bar is a larger size. I'd like to replace the bar and chain with oem.

Is there a difference in fuel lines? I thought I saw a video where the guy used a newer style that had a spring around it?

Get a fuel line through a Stihl dealer the am lines are made from inferior material and fail very quickly in any ethanol laced fuel/pump gas. The fuel pickup line from a MS260 is an upgrade and I do that often on my 026 rebuilds, the hole in the fuel tank does need to be enlarged to fit the molded in grommet in the new fuel line,easy to do but if that does not seem like something you want to attempt just get a OEM 026 replacement from a dealer. I have seen too many AM fuel related parts break down and fail to recommend them if used with regular pump gas. I have never seen a fuel line with a spring around it, the OEM ones do not. As for a bar and chain there are too many choices for replacement and eBay is loaded with choices of lengths and manufacturers, Stihl and Oregon are most common bars and chains , just depends on what you want to pay for one and the amount of use you intend to use it.

 

[stihltech]

Just put the original fuel hose in 1121 358 7705. Still available. Do a pulse hose also. Totally agree with a vacuum and pressure test. For a homeowner (not a shop) the Harbor Freight unit works well.
Check the carb out! A new kit is a must if there is no corrosion.

 

[dav2no1]

Went to a local Stihl dealer today and spent a pile of cash. They did not have the muffler gasket in..should have one later this week. My air filter was good but going to buy an extra one. Those were also out of stock. My filter screws are a little boogered up, but the old guy said that were fine..so I didn't bother buying any. He said the bar looks fine and to just flip it.

I bought new chain, carb gaskets, fuel(50:1 mix), bar oil, new caps, fuel line and filter. Also bought a guard..this one is for 18" which I eventually will put back on.

I did forget a spark plug..Will have to see what this one looks like?

Let the fun begin!

 

[Michael E]

That's a great start! The wad of cash is called maintenance and will help you keep the saw running for a long time. There is no outrageous repair item, it's just consumables so far.

I'm a big fan of canned fuel like Motomix. I like especially the health benefits: If my nose is right in the cloud of exhaust fumes, I prefer if they are not carcinogenic. The fuel also stays usable for a long time. If you don't use your saw for an extended period, it still starts.

If the saw was previously used with mixed (gas station) fuel, there are a few things to consider. Rubber parts that were immersed in mixed fuel for a long time can fail pretty fast after the switch. But at this point, all those parts are suspicious because of age and should be replaced anyways. Also, canned fuel needs slightly different carburator settings. Your saw will run a bit leaner with Motomix. It might even seem to run better, revving higher, but can damage your saw in the long run. It's a quick adjustment, just one more thing to keep in mind. If your previous settings are a little on the rich side, you might be just fine.

 

[diver64]

You can take apart the carb, remember how the gaskets go with quick cell phone pictures. If gaskets good can reuse them for now. By doing this you can clean it out making sure it is not gummed up with old bad fuel., spray pathways with carb cleaner. Don't use high compressed air on the carb.

That chain looks like it needs some help filing.

If he is going to tear the carb down he might as well have a carb kit with gaskets and change them to avoid doing it twice. Just my two cents.