I got no sense

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pelhamjeff

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Afternoon, gents. I have a homelite generator dad gave me. Gen windings made smoke one day, but the motor runs great. It's a model 176A35-1C. It was new in 82. I want to use the 8-horse Briggs for a log splitter, so I have removed the outer part of the generator, but what I can't figure out is how to remove the part still attached to the crankshaft(maybe this is called a rotor? armature?). I would like to know how a normal person gets this thing off. Please help a guy who's in way over his head! Thanks!:dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:
 
Not for sure on your homelite but I rebuilt a generator once and the armature should be bolted to the output shaft of the engine. After the outside case is removed you should have a bolt in the center of the armature once it is removed the armature should be a force fit and have a woodruf key to center it. If you are going to junk the generator parts just drive the armature off by hitting it with a hammer. I attached an exploded view of a generator. You can see the center bolt that has to be removed. I hope this helps. Just yell if you need more help. Good luck Pete...
 
Yep, just loosen that bolt 4-5 turns and smack it sharply with a hammer and the armature should pop loose. However, I believe that the engine will have a tapered shaft, if it does not please let me know.



:cheers:
 
I believe that the engine will have a tapered shaft,

yep: the key keeps the armature from spinning on the shaft. You are right I used the wrong term reguarding the forced fit. I was just thinking it is forced on the taper of the shaft but a forced fit would be on a stright shaft not the taper shaft it should have. thanks
 
That bolt in the end of the armature only holds the fan on, I think. I appreciate that picture, but this gen is older than the one in the exploded view. I don't have the overhead valve engine. As far as the crankshaft being tapered or not, the part I can see is not tapered, but I'm not looking at the end of it yet. I have smacked that armature while prying it outward about as hard as I am comfortable doing. I bet if I crank the engine and walk away, things might work themselves out.
 
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See?....you DO have sense

I had not one but two guys bring me gen sets that they did exactly what you said and wanted me to straighten one and straighten/weld the bent and cracked cranks.

There are special pullers for the armatures to get them off the taper.

You will be a whole lot happier if you just get a normal non taper crank engine as making an adapter for a lovejoy coupler will make you nuts and belt drive can be a pain on a splitter as well.
 
Im pretty sure I can get that armature off with a steering wheel puller if put hooks in a couple of long bolts and then center on another bolt that reaches the end of the hole in the crank and protrudes 1/4 inch past the armature. The hooked bolts will hook behind the laminated section of the armature windings. I'm gonna try that hopefully on friday night. I had a couple more people tell me not to bother with a tapered crank, and I might wind up using something else. Is there nobody who sells an adaptor to make it work? I thought I might make something work using part of my existing armature in conjunction with a shortened section of mercedes or bmw driveshaft, which uses a rubber flex coupling. I'm only mentioning that idea because I have access to these driveshafts when they are too ragged out to use on a car anymore, but they might be suitable to drive a pump. I also have a pretty nice mig welder, an assortment of adaptors from a brake lathe, and some other odds and ends. Maybe somebody else has been there/done that with a tapered crank? I'd like to hear about it. Thanks for all the advice so far!
 
I have worked on many brands, but lately I am exclusively involved with maintenence and repair of mercedes and bmw. If that driveshaft plan doesn't fall into place easily, I'll figure something else out.
 
You dont have that apart yet?



Just rap it with a hammer, Ive taken several apart and thats all I do.


The tapered shaft engine can be used for other purposes by cutting the armature shaft off and using it as an adapter. I have turned them in a lathe to reduce the size of the shaft after having removed it as they are sometimes odd shaped.


Hitting it from the side wont work, you need to rap on the bolt.

.
 
Ask around

If you have any small engine shops around they will often trade for a straight shaft engine as the tapered is much less common and Gen sets are one of the most frequent applications to be run with no oil or spent oil/sludge.

If you weren't so far away I would swap you for an 8 horse straight shaft even up because I could use that engine for a couple of gen sets in need of transplants.

Replacement taper shaft engines new are ridiculous price wise.
 

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