I need some advice on a removal

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NebClimber

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Columbus, NE
I am removing a mulberry tree over a two story house. 5' dbh.

The tree sits right next to the house. Two large stems run up the side of the house, and then angle horizontally over the roof, on the same plane as the pitch of the roof. Then they turn back up to the sky.

I don't know how to remove this wood. I can't lower it out with a block b/c 1) there is not enough clearance between the roof and limb to block a chunk out, and 2) the piece would still be hanging over the roof.

No room for speedline either (even if I could rig one) b/c the limb is only 3' or 4' above the roof.

Suggestion?
 
Depending upon roof material the easy way may be to simply lay them on the roof!. Mulberry (with the exception of Paper Mulberry) is very strong an dependable wood. If there is only 3 feet of clearance there is little potential fall distance. gently hinging the whole thing onto the roof would not shock the building. Got a pic?
 
Crane is not economical in this case. In any event, I want to force myself to learn how to do this.

Can't lay wood on the roof b/c roof is very steep.

I worked on other parts of this tree all day today. First time I ever used a port-a-wrap, a whoopie sling, a block, and an eye sling.

So there may be an obvious or simple solution that I just don't know about.
 
Is your commercial liability insurance up to date Steven? I’m going to stand firm and advise that you contract out the work, it sounds to difficult for you and possibly an expensive lesson.
 
Without seeing anything, you could do a tip tie and a butt tie putting a tag line in the middle. Are there any trees nearby which you can use to swing the logs away from the roof?
 
I guess I don't need an answer specific to my project. I would just like a general answer that I can research, read about, think about. For example, as to the rest of the tree, I had been lowering wood through natural crotches, and had my groundie take a few wraps around the trunk to lower. This just wasn't working efficiently or safely. So I starting poking around in the Sherrill catalog, and in the Tree Climber's Companion. I bought a port-a-wrap, whoopie sling, block, and eye splice. Then I came to this site and asked about hitches for attaching the eye splice to a vertical limb. I was told to use a cow hitch. Then I went to the Tree Climber's Companion and learned the cow hitch. Today I employed all of these tools and knowlege, and things went well.

Now I'm kinda looking for some general guidance to kick off a new round of research as to how to remove a piece of wood over a steep roof, transport it ten feet to the edge of the roof, and lower it safely to the ground.

P.S.: I have contacted a few local climber's who might be able to show me the way. None have yet called back. Meantime, I want to work to at least research my own solutin.
 
Well said Brian and Rob. Brian you need to change your signature. -How about: Sensitive yet accessible know-it-all selflessly sharing the knowledge.:p
 
Nebclimber, There are always options in rigging. Some are simpler , some are safer, but there is seldom "only one way". You say that the roof is too steep. Why? Even if you can't stand on the roof that doesn't preclude placing material on it. For example: If you lay the limbs on the roof, while rigging off the limb butt that is still standing., lower the butt slowly while sliding the limb down the roof and capture the limb tip (also roped off the same standing butt) you could get the whole thing down safely. -I'm talking about workable methods-I haven't seen your tree and situation. The controlled slide isn't just theory-I've done it many times without ever damaging the roof or building. Obviously a crane will work. Gaffing up the limb and chunking it might work to(not a good first choice IMO) Rigging out of neighboring trees is also good. The bottom line is that you have to think this stuff through in every situation-there is no single correct technique.:angel:
 
Neb,

You mentioned a crane was out, but what about a bucket truck? I know this is related to climbing, but sometimes buckets rule. If your worried about the yard and leaving ruts, 3/4" plywood will save a lot. If that is absolutely NO option, tie a second climber into the tree and have him/her on the roof pitching your limbs for you. You could use loops slings for added control of lowering to your assistant. Depending on the roof material, he may have to put on tennis shoes instead of boots for better traction.

On another note, how far is Lincoln from Omaha???
 
I cant really tell what you are talking about with out a photo, but have you thought about placing a loopie and a block just below your cut, with a bull rope attached to another block in the main trunk of the tree, running down to the base on a port-a-wrap, and then having a tag line run from the middle of the limb to be removed, attached to an anchor point on the ground using a french prusik on a minder pulley? You may be able to apply tension to the limb you are removing as you cut it, and once it falls free your groundies can pull up the slack as it goes but letting the french prusik hold tight to keep it from slamming from the roof. If you have a minitraxion this could act as the french prusic and you could belay the limb away from the house and safely to the ground, But like I said its hard to get an idea of what you are doing with out a picture. Just a though from the peanut gallery.


:Monkey:
 
Depending upon roof material the easy way may be to simply lay them on the roof

Thats it. Lay down the wood on the roof one at a time and discard from there. Use a PW for slow decent, and control.
 
A few of you have mentioned laying or putting it on the roof.....being that I'm fairly new to the business, is this an acceptable practice? I have looked at a few jobs that would have been more "do-able" if I would have done this but I chose not to.

Jeff
 
My not be enoguht room to winch up if it parralles a steep pitched roof. Besides he is looking for options that he can use now, with his current working capitol.

One thing I've done a number of times is throw a rope over the hous and anchor it on the other side and use a friction hitch on my center D ring to stableize me on the roof. The take peices small enough so you can conrtol in cut and chuck.

Another thing is if there is a small outside branch that can be used as a lightweight rigging spar, set a pully there so you can pull/swing peices off as they tear.

Have your ground tension into the rope so that it sucks line in slowly. Putting a redirect on the.

In any case this is a situation where working smaller vs bigger is usually more time effective.

Tag lines sometimes help too.

Now if you've cut the entire outside of the tree off allready....
 
I did a similar job with a steep roof and nothing on the roof itself to tie in to. Like JPS mentioned, I tossed ropes over the roof and down the side of the house, anchoring the ropes to objects on the ground, frame of house, other trees or shrubs. I used 1/4 inch plywood with holes drilled in the corners to attach the ropes to. That was enough to protect the roof. You don't need to lug heavy 3/4 inch stuff up there. Laid it as gently as possible on the roof and pull with tag line and lower to ground. Like the others mentioned, hard to figure out a solution without actually seeing the tree. Hopefully you still have rigging points left.

I once got called to do a banyan removal. The homeowner told me he already cut most of the tree and just needed a pro to remove the stuff over fence and neighbor's property. Sure enough, he had cut all the upright branches and left only the horizontals on the neighbor's side. I explained to him that he had now made the job extremely hard and dangerous. I passed on it. I have enough work that I don't need to take a job where I would have to do the inchworm technique for 40 ft. and piece off 18 inch dia. limbs.
 
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